Temp

How about treating the existing structure as just ventilated cladding? Something like.. Remove existing insulation to allow ventilation of that void. Line with vapour permeable membrane and OSB. Build internal structure from say 2*5 with 125mm insulation between...or 100mm and a 25mm service void. Plasterboard. Is there a DPC already under the existing structure?

Not sure I quite follow the problem but most level access Part M doors are done something like this... There is a concrete sill and the DPM/C is under that at the door. The DPC in the external leaf is higher. The DPC can be higher than 150mm above ground level.

Cad done... Not all the lines on the drawing will be on the final unit. Has radiused corners to suit a washbasin that sits on top. The way it sits means I had to allow for a small gap behind the dummy drawer front or there would be a gap between the sides and the wall its going against. Might do something to pretty up the toe recess. Its actually going in a bathroom.

But that's not quite what this says... https://www.edinburgh.gov.uk/downloads/file/25402/quick-guide-to-house-extensions

I questioned the appearance and disappearance of the 1m rule... My email to.. Chief.Planner@gov.scot The reply.. If anyone wants to ask the more important question thats the email to write to.

Thanks. Had a feeling it would be something like that.

If we assume a steel across the middle the rafters end up about 4.5m span. The old Trada table I have suggest rafters would be something like 47 x 220 C16 on 400mm spacing.

I think it's just a normal/common issue. Apparently sealer does help glue the sand together. I've also read of people brushing in a kiln dried sand with some cement added to make a weak mix but think this can stain the blocks.

Even running the rafters the other direction would give a 7.5m span. Think that's much bigger than the standard Trada span tables cover.

I'm making some drawings for a kitchen cabinet/base unit. I found this page with some useful dimensions for clearance gaps but have a question... https://www.diyhomefit.co.uk/measuring-up-guide.html What I'm interested to know is what gap (if any) is normally provided behind the door where the red arrow is on the drawing above. I think a small gap might help ensure the door fully closes. For example if the door isn't perfectly flat? Anyone know if the hinges normally used on kitchen cabinet doors are intended to have a gap here? I know they are normally adjustable so a gap could be created but I need to subtract the default gap from the front to back depth of the unit.

But then this page is dated from April 2021... https://www.gov.scot/publications/householder-permitted-development-rights-guidance-updated-2021/pages/6/#EnlargingADwellinghouse

+1 That's dated Sept 2020 which is more recent than some the links I posted which were 2016.

Another explanation.. https://www.edinburgh.gov.uk/downloads/file/25402/quick-guide-to-house-extensions That certainly appears to allow bigger extension if "you" are less than 1 metre 1m from the boundary. It would be nice to find the amendment to the GPDO that introduced this change but I couldn't immediately find it. A lot of web pages from as late as 2020 still dont mention the 1m rule so it must be reasonably recent.

I've just read the rules here.. https://www.gov.scot/publications/guidance-householder-permitted-development-rights-9781780456836/pages/6/#SingleStoreyGroundFloorExtension and there are two sections that explain this.. It certainly appear to be the case that the 3 and 4m limits only apply to extensions that are within 1 meter of the boundary. There is also a rule limiting the area of the garden that can be built on which might come into play.

PS I do love the colour of the triangular tile.

Yes but the square in the photo appear to have sides longer than the sides of the triangle. You would have to cut every square tile smaller.

How do the triangles and squares fit together without large grout gaps?

Spacetherm Aerogel is 0.015W/mk.

Aerogel is good stuff but very expensive and fragile. Aerogel blanket used for insulation isn't nearly as good as raw Aerogel. The Thermal Conductivity of PIR is 0.022 W/mk. Google suggests the Thermal conductivity aerogel blanket varies from 0.024 W/mK down to 0.018 or 0.014 W/mk. So some (0.024W/mk) appears to be worse than PIR. The best (0.014W/mk) would need... 150*14/22 = 95mm

Just find someone good at wrapping Christmas presents. After lowering the blocks I think I'd put something down to protect the DPM from the rough edges of the blocks. Perimeter insulation roll would probably do. Then run a strip of DPM through the doorway and use DPM/C jointing tape to seal.

I thought the membrane should drape in to the valley gutter, so any rain or snow blown under tiles runs down into the valley gutters.

We could see a few companies go bust over the next few years. Could end up with different roof tiles, windows, possibly even bricks. Even if they are still available the colour difference might be noticeable at the join. Some if this you can design out, for example by not making them identical rectangular boxes so there isn't just one long front wall. But perhaps they have to match existing/neighbouring houses.

For reasons I don't understand Architects sometimes seem incapable of designing things that I imagined were well within their capabilities. Its either ignorance or a risk/insurance thing, I don't know. I'd get an SE to bash out a proposed floor design/cross section. Give it to the Architect and I'm sure he will be happy to include it in the BC Application. Likewise the EWI. Find a company or two and see if they have detailed design drawings. Might even be on their website.

The mixer on the manifold doesnt doesn't normally just switch from all boiler to all recycling, it blends the two. So even when the flow temperature is 35C it is mixing 60C from the boiler with the return from the UFH (25C ?). At those temperatures the ratio would be about 10/35ths Boiler flow and 25/35ths UFH Return.... (10/35)*60 + (25/35)*25 = 35C If you turn off the boiler the UFH flow temperature will fall quite quickly to the UFH return temperature. What happens if you just turn the boiler temperature down? Does it modulate down or start short cycling? I know the DHW should be kept at 60C to avoid legionnaires disease.

The fence along the edge of the road would have to be 1m to be permitted development. The one running at 90 degrees to the road can be 6ft but the planners would probably prefer it to be 3ft to preserve the open aspect.