Temp

The relevant bit of the Building Regs is Approved Document G.. So yes it is a more stringent standard than otherwise. Never heard of it being a problem for lenders. One option might be to ask the planners if they would remove/replace the condition if you install some sort of rainwater recycling system. Even if only for flushing loos. Propose your own ambiguous condition. What does the SPD SP10 say about rainwater recycling if anything? We have an underground rainwater recycling tank but its only used for garden/car.

Indcative pricing.. http://www.mcbrick.co.uk/our-price-list

So is the main sewer backing up? I would notify the water co that the main doesnt appear to be coping when it rains . Tell them you think it might be partly blocked and you already had yours inspected. Remember the rules changed a few years ago so they are responsible for more of the network.

What sort of brief did you give him to quote against? If that has everything well specified then you can "accept the attached quote on the basis of the attached Request for Quote" keep copy yourself. Otherwise perhaps see if he will visit and talk you over what he proposes as you walk around. Write notes so you can confirm with him before accepting the quote. It's also worth trying to see a job he's done before or is currently on. The one thing that bugs me is the way some plumbers just throw the pipes in at all angles and just "make it work" rather than having neat well planned pipe runs.

Essential to cap any pipes or something will get in even if only spiders.

When I needed duct the place I got it from asked if it was for the incoming supply which he knew the DNO wanted to be a particular type or outgoing to a shed which he said could be a cheaper twin wall. That saved a few £.

Our (LPG) gas pipe is a semi rigid plastic coated copper pipe. Might be wrong but think it might be v.difficult to pull through a duct? I think ours is just in the ground. Joints wrapped in denzo tape which is horrible sticky stuff.

Silestone also do a silicone.. https://www.howdens.com/hardware/sealants-and-adhesives/sealants/worktop-joint-sealants/silestone-colorsil-280ml-quartz-worktop-silicone-sealant-obj-sku-family-25393183

See Google and YouTube for "Silestone".

What are the flow and return temperatures on the dials and have you seen them higher? Are the flow gauges indicating there is flow? Is the pump running?

Sorry I don't know as we used a prime contractor. Was also in 2007. In your position I think I would get a drawing made and take a load of bricks to a cutting service. Have the builder use them instead. Worst thing will be timescales probably.

Is not hard to find a brick cutting service.

Actually they look like full bricks not slips so perhaps they only had to cut them in one plane.

We went for brick slipped lintels. They look much better but cost a fair bit. Depends what you want. Ours are full arches. We provided regular bricks and the company cut them to tapered slips.

They may ask for it back. When a relative died and we cleared their house we lost the router. Some months later Virgin called wanting it back. It was many years old. I said we had lost it and they made some noises about charging £30 but I don't think we ever did get billed.

One behind our bath.. The flexible pipe is the bath waste. We can easily move whole bath to mop behind it..

I would batten out the whole wall deep enough to allow any pipe crossing and the sanicompact unit. Fit 12.5mm Hardibacker sheets creating a large access hatch at the bottom. Possibly full width, but at least large enough to get the sanicompact out. The main issue is fixing the hatch panel and disguising the edges. I use magnetic catches to hold our smaller hatches in and aluminium trim (photo) but I'm sure there are other ways. You could even grout them so they can't be seen but you have to remember which grout lines to cut to get the panel out and there us a risk of those grout lines cracking. I did this on a horizontal hatch above a concealed cistern and it worked OK. It's meant to be serviceable through the flush plate but I wanted better access. Just noticed I missed a bit of grout at the top right of the hatch...

In our bathroom my builder was fretting about all the pipes, taps and spouts he had to fit into the wall. I just told him to batten out the whole wall about 4" rather than part of it. Made the whole thing easier and neater. Battons were covered in hardi backer board. We cut an access hatch behind the free standing bath to get to things like the pressure reducers in the void. Whole wall is covered in travertine.

As I understand it the grey coated bead systems are OK, the blown fibre systems can be a nightmare if they get wet and are more prone to slumping. Are you rendering the outside? Bricks can be very porous and there is a risk of water bridging the cavity when you fully fill it. Again the coated bead systems have a better reputation than others. Installers are meant to check if your house is in an exposed location before installing full fill systems to reduce the risk of damp bridging. Rendering effectively stops this being an issue. If your cavity is 175mm you could consider 125mm PIR sheets. If installed correctly the U-Value should be at least as good as 175mm EPS. You might even be able to use 150mm PIR but keep knocking the snot off the wall ties. I'm convinced that poor installation let's down many good intentions. You don't want your builder trying to stuff sheet insulation down the cavity because the brick layers got too far ahead. Ideally you want then fixing it to the block inner leaf with nice tight butt joints before the outer leaf is built.

Is the land registered? Covenants can either be in the title document at the land registry or possibly in the local land charges register (which normally show up in solicitors searches). Google says the latter are normally financial but I think they can also include the sort of thing you are talking about. https://www.gov.uk/government/publications/hm-land-registry-local-land-charges-programme/local-land-charges-programme

Yes so once you have started development the planning grant is effectively extended indefinitely unless there is a planning condition requiring completion within x years. Remember that there may be implications for your VAT reclaim. You are have to submit a claim within 3 months of completion. The HMRC definition of completion seems to change. Some people have moved in and taken years to get their BCO to sign it off as complete, then HMRC have tried to argue they were effectively complete years earlier when they moved in so their reclaim was too late. Others will have better idea what you can get away with but I would think about buying all the materials for the garage so you can reclaim the VAT soon after the house is signed off.

Personally I like your three pane design. I would get a two pane version drawn up to see if it looks as good. I think it would look very odd having z different number of panes on each floor if that's what you are considering. I think that design is crying out for all the glazing to be from the same company to get the consistent look.

So something like two meter cabinets fixed to a sheet of WBP fixed to a fence should be ok.

Is the garage on a separate planning grant or same as one as the house? If its on the same planning grant as a house already started I don't think you need to any work on the garage. If its a separate planning grant then normally its recommended to get BCO approval and dig and fill foundations.