Temp

@Gerhardt This?.. https://victoriaplum.com/browse/all-plumbing-accessories?csi=BAW1001A&gclid=Cj0KCQjwr82iBhCuARIsAO0EAZwUU4vj91wuqIKD_7RPfw7CMANz0_zB22AEbHle3YPO_Ds40fqf1MIaAoH-EALw_wcB

The above is probably the easiest.

Need to see a block diagram of your system. If it looks like this.. Then how does the inverter know how much of its output is being used by the house (AC Devices) or exported to the AC Power Grid? If it can't tell where its going then it will have to limit total output to 3.66kW. One way it could know is if the AC Energy meter block or something in that position on the diagram tells the inverter how much is being exported. Another way would be for the grid connection to go through the inverter on its way into the house. Need that block diagram.

The window frames probably have trickle vents in them to prevent condensation and mould. Sometimes these can be closed or partially closed but it depends on the make and you run the risk of inadequate ventilation if you shut them up too much.

In a regular two storey house you can also jump from a 1st floor window. Can't really do that from 2nd floor. In theory we all shut the living room and kitchen door at night so when there is a fire in there we still have a semi fire proof corridor from the loft/2nd floor to the garden. If your doors are made of cardboard they perform much worse than a solid wood door even the door doesnt have seals and an official fire rating.

Raw aerogel is good stuff but I don't think it's available and too fragile? The blanket version doesn't appear to be much better than rigid PIR... Google found.. https://thermtest.com/application/aerogel-thermal-conductivity-hfm https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Polyisocyanurate#:~:text=PIR is typically produced as,on the perimeter%3Aarea ratio So in this case its marginally worse not better. Note: Thermal conductivity is the a property of the material. Its like the U-value for a 1m thick block of the stuff. So to calculate a rough U value for any thickness T (in mm) you can multiply by 1000/T. So U value of 100mm thick would be 0.023 * 1000/100 = 0.23 W/m²K. That's the insulation alone not a whole wall.

Does water come out of the gap when it rains hard? If not then the ends of the gutters are probably blocked by design. I'd leave it alone. I'm not entirely convinced the gap in the gutter has caused the cracking in the mortar below. Did your SE say anything about this?

If you can feel draughts it should be possible to detect them. Perhaps try Joss sticks or soap bubbles? One possibility is convection currents. Normally rads are located under windows to minimise this. If your rads are on the opposite side of the room this can make convection currents worse.

Check the installation instructions. The answer to the last question appears to be NO for some of their frames at least..See.. Title says 2x4 wall but the video shows a 2x6 wall...

Installation instructions.. See cross section bottom right of last page. There shouldn't even be a gap.. https://www.europeanplastics.co.uk/_files/ugd/a1adc3_ae879888910049cb93079fa54eb2232b.pdf?index=true The sanded strip down the middle is to provide a key for the mortar to stick to.

There are two 50% rules. One involving the area of garden built on and the other involving the width of the house when side extensions are added. Regarding the latter.. The guidance says.. I believe two side extensions can effectively double the width of the house if NOT joined to any other existing extension. If you already have a rear extension then adding a side extension can need planning permission if they touch that see pages 26 and 27.. https://assets.publishing.service.gov.uk/government/uploads/system/uploads/attachment_data/file/830643/190910_Tech_Guide_for_publishing.pdf

I don't believe you need Planning Permission for a new pedestrian access. Think it's only needed for vehicle access. I hope his van was badly damaged.

Do check the power required by the cameras. When I set mine up I discovered it was quite close to the limit of the hub.

If its really close to your boundary I would get your builder to run a duct with a 3/8" or 9mm poly draw rope in it and a BT cable which I think is CW1326. Leave excess cable coiled at the bottom of the pole (long enough to reach the top and a few extra meters). And pay the £500 for FTTP. When the engineer turn up the can either pull fiber through using the draw rope or hook you up for regular broadband if they have made a mistake.

I think fill the frame and line the inside with another layer. That inner layer will be easier to get air tight.

Looks like you have allocated three car parking spaces or room to park and turn two cars so I don't see that as a problem.

The Independent is reporting that the far right wing American politician Marjorie Taylor Greene has claimed "the lack of tax raises during ice age proves climate change is a hoax". https://www.independent.co.uk/news/world/americas/us-politics/marjorie-taylor-greene-climate-change-ice-age-b2329132.html We're doomed, doomed.

Yes Ideally paint then paper but it's not exactly rocket science to paint after one wall has been papered. I reckon it would be 10 mins extra work to paint up to the paper with a brush if that. Then a bit of care with the roller near the paper. Were they planning to spray paint? That woukd be harder with one wall already papered.

Perhaps see.. https://www.tikkurila.co.uk/faqs/blistering-on-water-based-paint-film

Bose Noise cancelling toilet..

I think poo noise cancellation tech might actually be a thing... https://www.odditycentral.com/technology/electronics-company-develops-smart-device-that-cancels-embarrassing-toilet-noises.html

What you need is noise cancelling technology 😉 https://patents.google.com/patent/US20060039569A1/en

I have a feeling HMRC might refuse the VAT reclaim on the grounds that car lifts aren't normally provided with houses?

Our plasterboard is only screwed into the timber studs around the frame not the frame itself.

We fitted smaller jets to reduce the output of our oil boiler but i dont know if thats possible for gas boilers.