Temp

And not a bit of pipe insulation in sight. Well OK just a bit. Looks like a lot missing to me.

The word "ply" in "single ply" means "one layer". So the quote is just for provding and fitting the PVC layer 9f the roof not the plywood. You need your joiner to fit any plywood needed. I haven't come across PVC roofing before. I think most people use EPDM or Fiberglass on flat roofs.

Some aerogel blankets have a thermal conductivity that isn't much better than PIR. For example one make quotes 0.024 W/mK which is the same as PIR.

Take the wheels off and replace with feet or replace with castors that have a brake..

Put loads of insulation in the floor of the room above the overhang. We had a house once with a small overhang and despite quite a lot of insulation that room was always cold.

Google found this man.. https://www.clivewarwicklandscapedesign.co.uk/about-us.html If you hire an expert (any expert) ask him for a preliminary opinion before he writes his report. That way you can consider or incorporate any changes he recommends before writing the report for the council or even bin it and get one from someone else.

Make sure she drinks plenty of water. Doctor warned us old people don't notice they are getting dehydrated. Consider a portable AC unit.

There are signs up at many tips stating they are for residents of the county only but most don't do checks very often if at all.

PS Some of the insulation manufacturers like Kingspan and Celotex probably have guides on their web site on how to do IWI on solid walls. For example last time I looked they had a guide on how to do a garage conversion when it's a single brick wall. They might even provide condensation risk analysis free if you give them details of the proposed wall construction with thickness dimensions.

What @Hastings said. You also need a plan for the wiring. For example if the house is old this might be best time to do a rewire. That could be done by insulating then fitting battens and plasterboard to form a service void for wiring and sockets so these dont penetrate the vapour barrier on the insulation. In some cases if the wiring is in good condition sockets and switches can be raised up the wall to provide enough extra wire to go through the insulation. But if you do this I'd want them to tell me (ideally without asking) that they will seal the back of back boxes where wires enter to ensure they are air tight. Eg to stop water vapour getting through into the cold cavity behind the insulation.

Welcome to the forum. Is it a flat or pitched roof? If pitched perhaps put a velux or two, if flat a skylight or lantern right outside the kitchen window. As for lighting there are plenty of LED battens and other lights that could be used. It sounds like this might count as a side extension? They can sometimes need planning permission.

Shouldn't be a problem.

Keep them upwind of you boiler flue. Ideally on a different wall around the corner.

As for structural work it might depend on what you have inside. Does the first floor meet the front wall above the current front door or do you already have a stair well? Which way do the floor joists run? Front to back or left right? A lintel is also needed above the top window.

Welcome to the forum, if you find it useful consider donating to server costs. These are sometimes called "full height" doors or windows. Normally used where the ground floor inside also extends upto the roof, perhaps the stair we'll, but not necessarily.

I'd go with your joiners suggestion. I think having the recess on the hall side also looks better.

Could be the inverter or the panels. On some old systems shading or a defect on just one cell in one panel limits the output of the whole system. Needs someone to look at it on a sunny day not just guess from their office.

Google finds.. https://www.scribd.com/document/376182521/Log-Book-for-Operation-ETP But is it required in UK?

I think with AA you can only extend "above the top most floor" so not clear if you can build above the garage? Edit: Sorry I confused this with another thread.

How high up each side does the lead go under the membrane? How were the joints in the lead done? This drawing shows a roof meeting a chimney but against a wall I would go higher. Two bricks or more rather than the one shown..

If you can't hold the wood steady hand saws are a nightmare. They pull and push the wood around and jam up in the cut. I'd still make a jig, perhaps two rails and a ratchet strap to hold logs still on a bench while cutting with a chainsaw. Otherwise split them first then run them through a band or table saw.

Looks to me like it was originally meant to have fasia and soffit then they changed their mind to exposed rafter ends. I would expect there to be some sarking boards or T&G on top of the rafters so you can't see the underside of the roofing felt. I've seen a lot worse brickwork. Looks average to me.

I had a quick look at their web site. They have some rated down to 40 and others 35. Think I would tell them which ones you like and see if they can recommend a similar tile that's OK at 35 degrees. Or perhaps see if they will contact the manufacturer and ask if increasing the overlap and by how much would allow them to be used at 35 degrees. Make them work for your order.

Status of EDF nuclear here.. https://www.edfenergy.com/energy/power-station/daily-statuses

Presumably if you use a bitumen based product it has to be a ventilated cold roof structure (50mm ventilated void) or is a warm roof structure with insulation above the rafters possible?