Temp

Try and take some photos before he puts the pipe in! (Edit: Looks like you have done that.) We were advised to write a letter to a neighbour and send it recorded delivery, keeping a copy etc. This is because once someone has been formally made aware that their actions could cause damage, if they go ahead anyway, they become liable for additional damages for negligence. Otherwise they are just liable for damages for repairs and/or nuisance. I would point out in the letter that.. * Land owners upstream have riparian rights to discharge water into the burn. * You are writing to make him aware that the existing 1m diameter pipe at property X has proved inadequate and caused local flooding on at least X occasions in recent years. * You believe that his proposed use of a 1m diameter pipe will also be inadequate and may cause flooding and flood damage to your property for which a court is likely to find he is liable. * Now that he has been made aware (that a 1m diameter pipe is likely to be inadequate and cause flood damage to your property) if he proceeds to install or retain a 1m diameter pipe and it does causes flood damage it is likely he will be additionally liable for damages for negligence.

When we submitted our drawings prior to starting work the BCO asked us how we were going to comply with Part E (sound transmission). He said he was mainly concerned about our first floor which is beam and block, insulation and UFH in screed. Started talking about needing sound tests because apparently there wasn't an existing "robust design detail" for a B&B floor with UFH on top. To my surprise he was right. He had me calling every beam & Block company I could find to see if one of them had any kind of test certificate that might help me avoid a sound test. Not only are they an unwanted cost but there is always a risk you might fail. Anyway when we started building a different BCO came out to site and we never heard any more about it.

Great view, shame about the railway line?

Good point.

Not sure about that but you can get inline double pole switches like this.. https://boatlamps.co.uk/products/in-line-water-resistant-double-pole-switch Just check the cable diameter will be ok.

With heating oil you can ring around and haggle over the price. With LPG the gas company retains ownership of the tank and only they can fill it for the first two years (typically). After that you can switch supplier but ownership of the tank has to be transferred to the new supplier or a new tank fitted. Oil is about 5.0 to 5.4 p/kwh, LPG 6.30 p/kwh so LPG is currently about 16% more expensive. Oil is currently about same cost as mains gas according to.. http://www.nottenergy.com/energy_cost_comparison/

I believe this problem usually happen with indoor lighting because LIVE runs from the fitting down to the switch and back up to the fitting as SWITCHED LIVE. Therefore you have both sides of the switch in the same cable for some distance. Coupling between these two wires allows energy to bypass the switch. Typically this is enough energy to make LED glow dimly or for CFL to flicker on occasionally but it's not enough to light up a halogen or similar. It's not so obvious how it's happening with your outdoor set up but you could try switching the neutral as well.

Should be the plan with the conveyance. Was it moved in your favour or not?

I think the stove will dictate the position of the duct so better check carefully. This site has a handy filter that allows you to list stoves that have a direct air supply together with diameter of pipe required. Click and scroll down... http://www.stovesonline.co.uk/direct-air-supply-stoves.html

Interesting. I've never heard of the LR coming to check property boundaries. They specifically say that the LR cannot help resolve boundary disputes. Aside: If you google the land registry you get pages of links to companies that provide indirect access to the land registry data for increased fees. So many that it can be hard to find real Land Registry web site! This now appears to be at.. https://www.gov.uk/topic/land-registration/searches-fees-forms or the rather unfriendly/less polished pages.. https://www.gov.uk/government/organisations/land-registry https://eservices.landregistry.gov.uk/www/wps/myportal/My_Home

+1 on wet mats. They are more of a problem than towels.

Fabric conditioner helps make them fluffy but also stops them drying you.

We installed a towel rad but this winter I "forgot" to turn it on. Nobody has complained. If you shower once a day towels seem to dry fast enough with MVHR. Only issue is if you change your routine or for some reason shower twice in one day then your towel might still be slightly damp. Make sure you install a big enough rail so the air can circulate. There are four of us and sometimes the kids towels end up on top of ours which obviously slows down drying.

Many native hedge plants have thorns. If you will have to cut it yourself might be worth carefully selecting the varieties.

For a wind farm near us there were several hundred letters of objections from people living within 1 km and several hundred pre-printed post cards in support collected by the developer in a town 20km away. Some of the folks who submitted post cards lived hundreds of miles away.

How about submitting a retrospective planning application for a temporary 6ft fence for say three years while the hedge grows? That might satisfy the planners who are probably concerned the hedge won't get planted.

People hundreds of miles away with no connection to the property (eg Anyone) can write in support or raise objections. However only "valid" planning issues will/should be considered. The impact on the value of a neighbouring property is not considered a valid planning reason for refusal. Nor is loss of a view etc.

I planted about 60 meters of native hedge on our plot. If doing so again I would avoid Dog Rose or similar as the thorns are evil. I planted "whips". Just cut an L shape in the grass, lift the corner and push them in. Lots of guidance on the web. Only lost about 1 or 2%.

Prevailing wind in the UK is normally from the west or south west. So best put the boiler flue to the east of the mvhr inlet.

Would be better to have the MVHR inlet and boiler flue on different walls of the house if possible. Will the boiler flue be up-wind or down-wind of the MVHR inlet? How big is the gas boiler (eg power output)?... http://support.ambirad.co.uk/article.aspx?id=10724 Also check the boiler makers installation instructions. Sometimes these over ride the Building Regulations, for example when the boiler maker says you need a bigger separation.

Welcome to the forum. Perhaps post some photos? The difficulty will likely depend on if any structural walls will have to come down/out.

From todays Telegraph.. http://www.telegraph.co.uk/news/2017/03/06/smart-energy-meters-giving-readings-seven-times-high-study-finds/ Highlights.. Smart energy meters giving readings up to six times too high, study finds Smart meters are giving readings up to six times higher than the energy consumed by households when connected to energy-saving light bulbs, according to scientists. So called "green" devices such as energy saving light bulbs, heaters, LED bulbs and dimmers change the shape of electric currents which can result in a distorted reading, it said. The greatest inaccuracies were seen when dimmers combined with energy saving light bulbs and LED bulbs were connected to the system. Five out of nine smart meter models tested gave readings which were too high, the study found. The author of the report, Prof Leferink, said: "We've known since 2009 electronic meters can give readings which are too low. But this is the first time we've seen they can be much too high. We were flabbergasted by our results. "The study was carried out in a laboratory setting. If you looked at ones in homes I don't expect they would be 500 or 600 per cent out. But what we have shown is the reading can clearly deviate a lot from the power customers are actually consuming." and can anyone explain this bit.... "It is alarming, but it does not necessarily mean people have lost money. Smart meters are essentially a 'second check' as energy suppliers keep a record of energy consumption and if there is a discrepancy, they will know."

+1 If it's too late to add expansion slots then I would decouple. Otherwise not. We have opus pattern stone over UFH. The screed in each room shrank towards it's own centre and it cracked where they met at a doorway (we didn't put an expansion gap). The crack is not straight but curved more in one room than the other. Needless to say this propagated to the stone and the crack runs across three bits. This despite us allowing plenty of time for the screed to dry and warmed up the UFH slowly. No other cracks anywhere else. Think about grout colour. The main downside is that the grout gets dirty, especially in our kitchen. Seal it with several coats of stone sealer as soon as you can. For cleaning dirty grout I recommend you go on-line and look for special Alkaline stone cleaners available in 5L containers. One of these brushes saves the back..

Would it be possible to move the space outside 16 so the space for 14 can be moved and made bigger? If he ends up with a bigger space he might be happier.

Do they own the freehold or act as managing agent? I would try and get it sorted formally or there could be an issue when you sell. Might have to take out an insurance policy for the new owner if you can get one.