Temp

The regs say if the stove is certified "not to raise the hearth more than 100C" then you only need something 12mm thick but that 12mm must project above the surrounding floor, it cannot be flush with it. The idea is to stop rugs migrating too close. If using stone would make it thicker than 12mm (or well supported) because it will get stood on and it would be a shame to crack it. Our Clearview Solution 400 is sitting on a slab of black granite. I went to local monumental stone mason and he had a suitable offcut of kitchen worktop. He put it through his honing machine to take off the gloss. That's sitting on top of engineered wood, insulation and a beam & block floor.

Lots in here.. http://researchbriefings.files.parliament.uk/documents/CBP-7200/CBP-7200.pdf

+1 I think councils can still require both CIL and S106 in some cases. For example the CIL cannot be used to fund affordable housing and the S106 isn't limited to the pooling of five S106 in the case of affordable housing. PS I think self builders are exempt from the CIL and S106 for affordable housing if they meet certain conditions.

Sorry my quote tags are obviously all wrong. How do I edit them? The editor doesn't show them like it did on ebuild.

Services like the National One Call suggested by Redoctober didn't exist when we built our house. Some utility companies like Southern Water have their own online service (not that I've used it).. https://www.southernwater.co.uk/mains-and-sewer-maps It can be tricky getting the direct dial phone number for the right department at utility companies but if you can manage it then it might be worth trying to blag a map if it's urgent... "I'm digging on a site and I've hit a pipe/cable. Any chance I could pop into your office later and pick up a map?" Before you make that call make sure you have a 6 figure map reference and the scale you need. Oh and don't forget to ask where their office is. The Tree Officer at the Council/County Council will be able to tell you but asking him will tip off the planners that you are thinking of cutting down trees and they might suddenly hit you with a TPO that wasn't there before. If the plot is in a conservation area the rules say you have to assume all trees have a TPO on them and act accordingly. If a TPO was imposed before 2012 then the specific details of that TPO might no longer apply due to this legislation, although the actual TPO itself is still in force. https://www.gov.uk/government/uploads/system/uploads/attachment_data/file/6076/2127685.pdf Most planning departments have an online database. You can search by Planning Reference Number, Address or by location on a map. Beware that a site may have several files/applications associated with it under different names (eg "Land north of ABC" and "land south of DEF" can refer to the same plot). Online you can usually find all the documents related to an application including objection letters. What will not be online is any "pre application advice" issued to previous owners. If the owner is telling you that it will be easy to get planning permission because he has spoken to the planning officer then ask to see the pre-application advice letters. Not all letters between the planning officer and the previous applicant will be online. Sometimes you can make an appointment at the planning office to see the planning officers paper file which might have more in it. After a year of negotiating with the planners we discovered our planning office had a file I didn't know about that was very helpful to our application - so if can be worth spending time trying to find every letter or note. Depends on the detail you are trying to check. People in the local pub told me that my site had once been auctioned off in the pub itself. The highway agency will be able to tell you if they have adopted a road. If there is any doubt about the ownership or your right of access then raise it with your solicitor. You might have to do a "map search" at the land registry. That involves you marking out an area of land on a map and the LR will tell you which title deeds they have that are in that area. The grass verge between my plot and the tarmac road is quite wide and not shown on my title plan so I asked the Highway Agency and they confirmed it was part of the highway. That means anyone has a right to cross it, including me (which was the point of asking them). Look for soil type. Heavy clay might mean soakaways can't be used. That can give you serious problems because in most areas you can't put rainwater into the sewer anymore. In that case look for any ditches or piped ditches along the boundary as you might be allowed to put rainwater into those (perhaps after you have done some storm surge mitigation). Look for any evidence of surface water pipes or ditches across your plot as neighbours may have a right to discharge into them. Look for any signs of contamination - coloured or oil stains, lots of metal, concrete, asbestos etc. [quote]How to check previous site usages[/quote] Old/historic maps can be found online. Some are free such as Google maps/sat view. The EA have lots of data... http://apps.environment-agency.gov.uk/wiyby/ As does the government.. https://data.gov.uk/data/search for example this looks like it might be useful.. https://data.gov.uk/dataset/historic-landfill1 Local libraries sometimes have really old maps that can only be examined by making a request/appointment.

Thats most likely a reference to an S106. In some areas builders have to pay both the CIL and any S106 contributions. However S106 are becoming limited. Councils can't require more than 5 schemes to contribute to the same thing under S106.

Is the neighbour happy with that? Just in case you aren't aware... The neighbour could legally put up a fence or build something that obscures the window. They can also get you to remove anything that overhangs the boundary and that includes the window sill.

Are you or have you been living in the old house? I don't think splitting the plot before sale makes any difference to the tax position because you have already built the house which has had tax implications... Opinions seem to vary but it looks if you sell part of your garden (without a house) then you might be liable for CGT unless this is covered by the Principle Private Residence Relief. In that case splitting off the land before sale might mean you loose the PPR. On the other hand once you start building a house in your garden the start of work is treated as a point of sale and then I think any profit from building the house is treated as a "trading profit". Different web sites say this could make any gains liable for income tax, CGT or corporation tax so professional advice is needed.

Will be because there are more "dry" rooms than "wet". Doesn't need to be the same number.

Just a heads up that there are various grades of obscure glass depending on the pattern. Some are not all that obscure so if you go for one of those you might need a blind as well.

http://www.nhbc.co.uk/NHBCPublications/LiteratureLibrary/Technical/StandardsExtra/filedownload,25277,en.pdf See page 5. Says 40mm overhang.

The probability of back flow occurring must be quite rare. I think you would need to leave the shower head in the basin/loo AND leave the shower taps on AND for there to be a problem with the mains pressure? The usual solution is one of those annoying rings you find on the shower head rail in hotels. Google suggests it's called a "Category 5 compliant security hose retaining ring".. https://www.amazon.co.uk/MX-Shower-Hose-Retaining-Ring/dp/B00B2KFHUA https://www.amazon.co.uk/Trueshopping-Universal-Shower-Retainer-Chrome/dp/B00KRAQ18I/ref=pd_sbs_60_3?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=XYMSKAENNVXSZBG0MRNR

Frost damage?... http://www.makersgallery.com/concrete/faqs.html

Is it now blazing away too fast? Our fire insert makes some noise when the air is fully open but once the fire is going you turn it down and then can't hear it.

You can also get fake cast iron guttering made from GRP. Looks quite convincing. May not need painting but check. They used it on Dublin Cathedral... https://www.rainguard.co.uk/projects/yeoman-rainguard-gives-historic-dublin-cathedral-new-lease-life/ Can also get copper guttering (at a price). Also doesn't need painting. http://www.coppagutta.co.uk/ Mind you painting may not be needed on cast iron or aluminium guttering for a few years.

You do need to figure out where it goes, wouldn't do to find out later it that it's been blocked or it comes up in someone's garden. Lift some manholes and chuck some dyed water down the one you found and see if you can figure out where it's going that way. I'd still have the survey done as you need to know the condition of the pipe.

Just remembered that there are some switches designed to be hidden behind tiles... http://www.taptilecontrols.com/ http://www.sensor.co.uk/switches/bathroom_switch/ You would need to check if these are available with momentary/retractable outputs.

I've had a quick look online and I can't find a nice looking momentary rocker/pushbutton mains switch that's approved for use in a humid area. There are lots of IP65 rated switches intended for outside use but they don't look very pretty. This looks like the sort of momentary/retractable pull switch your electrician is talking about.. https://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/MK3190.html?ad_position=1o3&source=adwords&ad_id=45425533757&placement=&kw=&network=g&matchtype=&ad_type=pla&product_id=MK3190&product_partition_id=174047728387&test=finalurl_v2&gclid=Cj0KEQiAtqHEBRCNrdC6rYq9_oYBEiQAejvRl9q0kfiwts0prSeS5t2X-n0PtC0iK-Ov9BnaU6ItxO0aAiM38P8HAQ I expect you can also get them with a white cord.

According to this... https://www.amazon.co.uk/Schneider-Electric-Screwless-Retractive-Stainless-x/dp/B003NVKJMM/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1485361485&sr=8-1&keywords=retractive+light+switch Most people call those momentary switches. I don't see how that helps you meet the regulations for switches in bathrooms. My guess is that your MHRV system needs a momentary switch to trigger boost mode and that this has nothing to do with the regulations.

I'm not sure what "retractable" refers to but.. In my experience Electricians are generally nervous about putting anything mains powered in a bathroom. Sometimes they are reluctant to do so even when the regulations allow. Typically they prefer wall mounted light switches to be outside but accept pull switches for things like lights and fans inside. As far as I can tell you can put a mains powered switch, appliance or thermostat in a bathroom provided.. a) It's in the right "zone" and b) It's installed in accordance with the manufacturers instructions. The latter is frequently the problem - many switches, appliances and thermostats are not approved by the manufacturer for use in humid locations so you are precluded from installing them in a bathroom. In short - if you can find an MHRV boost switch that the maker says can be installed in a humid location then it should be ok.

I don't normally do plugs or reviews for companies so if the moderators are unhappy with this please delete.. A short while ago I needed to hire a tall scaffolding tower. These things are quite expensive to hire from the big companies like HSS even if you haggle so I was looking for best price when I found this company... https://www.lakeside-hire.co.uk/ They are a long way from me but they claimed to deliver nationwide so I gave them a go. I think what they actually do is subcontract the hire to a more local company if you are some distance away, but the price charged was much better than I've been able to find locally. Obviously the actual service you get may depend on the local company they use but I was happy. I know list prices are negotiable but for comparison.. A 6 meter (platform height) Boss tower 1.5 * 1.8m hired for 7 days is currently £148 via Lakeside and £332 from HSS , both inc VAT and delivery. If nothing else you might be able to use a Lakeside quote to beat down your local suppliers.

It can be quite hard to make a profit building houses. Hope you have a good handle on the likely costs. I purchased a plot from a builder. When I asked him why he was selling he told me that he didn't think he could make any more money by actually building the house. We got permission for a different/better house for us to live in. I reckon we broke even at best and probably made a loss. The builder was right. Clearly we overpaid for the plot but it was/is a pretty special plot and there was a lot of competition from other self builders. Pretty sure you will also have to register for VAT and submit quarterly returns as the self build VAT reclaim scheme isn't available to you. Do not be tempted to rent out the houses if you can't sell them as that may mean the VAT has to be repaid.

While looking for something else I stumbled on this MS Word document... https://www.google.co.uk/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=&ved=0ahUKEwjo_LnZkd3RAhXBBsAKHW3_AT8QFggdMAA&url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.taxation.co.uk%2Fsystem%2Ffiles%2Farticle_files%2FTIPsconstruction5711.doc&usg=AFQjCNGhrS3m27K8AsZKohWFMAZuBL-pHQ&sig2=87TByx5YjVpRhiMxLvXsWA It appears to be internal HMRC guidance on taxation within the construction industry. Of note is the number of sections redacted with the words... I noticed there are TWO of those in the section on self build and one is in the section headed "Useful websites". So best be careful what you post on forums eh?.

Is he talking about this... https://www.gov.uk/what-is-the-construction-industry-scheme I don't believe a self builder is considered to be a contractor. So no need to collect money from sub contractors. See also.. http://www.property-tax-portal.co.uk/taxarticle54.shtml It refers to property developers being contractors but I don't think self builders count as property developers. So remind us what you are building?

Google Earth may have historic aerial views. Fire it up, navigate to location, select view -> historic views. Adjust slider at the top to some earlier date, wait for screen to refresh. Perhaps you can show no change since 2008? I haven't worked out exactly where the site is on the link you posted earlier.