Temp

Seems to be problems with both... https://www.insurancebusinessmag.com/uk/news/breaking-news/troubles-at-cbl-see-alpha-insurance-go-into-liquidation-93956.aspx

They figure people don't water their garden enough so rainwater butts sit there full and most of the rainwater goes out the overflow into the sewer.

Is this where the FSCS rescue scheme comes in?.... https://www.moneysupermarket.com/money-made-easy/what-happens-if-my-insurance-firm-goes-bust/

Jolly good. If your hob is on cylinders I think you will be surprised how little gas a hob uses. Ours gets a lot of use and a 47kg cylinder lasts at least 18 months.

We built our house about 11 years ago. At the time someone told me to budget £100 a meter for just about any service involving trenching across a field, more if it had to go under a road. The water main actually ran across our plot but needed diverting to the edge. This involved a trench and pipe about 45m long all on our plot. The cost for that and connecting our house to it was about £4600 so pretty close to the £100 a meter budgeted.

Here you go... https://www.planningportal.co.uk/info/200126/applications/60/consent_types/14

I think a "notification of tree works" is required for all trees in a conservation area (if the trunk diameter is over 75mm).

BBC report that a combination thought to be ok has failed test in Dubai... https://www.bbc.co.uk/news/uk-44748514

You could mesh and render right over the lead on the face but I wasn't sure how to do the corner where you have that small flap/triangle of lead. With a stop bead that bit of lead comes out from under the bead. If you render down to that triangle of lead and the lead moves I thought the render might crack in that area.

Just a check but... Are there soakers under the lead and slate?

I'm thinking put the bottom of the stop bead about here...

+1 I think in this case you could find a stop bead with a wide mesh (or separate mesh) and fit that lower down so the mesh covers the lead. Would need to use stainless steel screws and SS or lead washers to fix the mesh through the flashing into the brick before rendering. Google found photos of something similar.. https://www.yelp.co.uk/biz_photos/ben-hockey-roofing-chalvington?select=_LLkfuZwwPUKDobw-N4RiQ

Black circles work same way as Asda and similar prices. Sometimes one is cheaper depending on make. I usually compare both because sometimes one of them will have an additional discount on 4 tyres.

+1 to it being vapour permeable/breathable. Check if the membrane is allowed to be installed in contact with the insulation. Not all manufacturers allow this. If they do then I'd put it under the counter battens in contact with the PIR. Otherwise put it above the counter battens with a gap below. This gap does NOT need to be ventilated like a cold roof construction. The membrane should be allowed to drape between the counter battens so it's not in contact with the underside of the tile battens. This is done to allow water blown under the tiles to drain down the membrane. If there is no drape water can pool above the horizontal tile battens causing them to rot. Vapour barrier on the warm/inside of the insulation. Fit as much insulation as you can. It will help keep the rooms in the roof cooler in summer.

Perhaps put some gravel around the water pipe so the water from the spring follows it off site.

Welcome to the forum. Thought a heads up on VAT might be in order... If building three houses you won't be able to use the self build VAT reclaim scheme for all of them because it's only available to people building their own house to live in themselves. The houses will still qualify for zero rating but you would have to use a VAT registered builder and get him to by all the materials. You couldn't use subcontractors and buy materials yourself unless you have another mean of reclaiming the VAT on the materials.

You've got some nice looking young trees in the background, will you be able to keep them?

This is the sort of pump I've used. Got it in Belgium when we lived over there. Some come with plastic parts rather than stainless steel. https://www.alibaba.com/product-detail/High-pressure-best-brand-stainless-steel_60488160410.html

Your pump will need to be capable of a "negative head" of at least a few meters (height of bank + bit). Some care is needed to get the right pressure and flow rate if you plan to connect the pump directly to the sprinkler. Personally I would go for a pump with a bladder tank built in but they are a bit more expensive. They switch on an off automatically as the pressure in the tank varies. Typically they have the pump mounted on the metal casing of the bladder tank and it's easy to mount a filter to the input. Hoselock do one (without a bladder tank?) but I've never used one.. .

Perhaps worth pointing out that if you get it wrong your hob might produce a lot of carbon monoxide.

This explains what the numbers mean but i think you need to look up the numbers your appliance needs for lpg. https://www.ebay.co.uk/gds/How-to-choose-Jet-Nozzle-for-your-gas-appliance-/10000000202400690/g.html There is a post here... https://www.navitron.org.uk/forum/index.php?topic=19031.0 That says the number for lpg should be 65-70% of that for natural gas.

The doors on most caravans I've seen are on the sides rather than the ends :-)

PS: Think our turf cost us £2500 and the water was about £10-15 a day for nearly two weeks.

Not sure of the pressure but I'd say it's a bit above average. We can get >40L/min in the main bathroom with everything open. We have a 25mm main to the house, and from there to the outside tap we have a run of about 15ft in 15mm copper. We also had an underground rainwater tank available that holds a few thousand liters but that only lasted 1 day watering the turf. The combination of sun and wind meant the turf started to shrink if left unwatered for more than an hour so it was a constant battle to move the sprinklers around fast enough.

We tried connecting three Hoselock sprinklers to one tap but was limited by the flow rate we could get out of it. The third one didn't really increase the area being watered as the pressure dropped on the first two. Very nearly lost a lot of turf simply because we couldn't water it fast enough.