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If you are currently in a house... Perhaps request some extra bins and transport them to the new site. See what happens when you put them out :-)

Yes, and the VAT on the kitchen package which you might have got cheaper elsewhere without "free" appliances.

+1 A pure wireless extender has the same problem connecting to a distant router as a phone/tablet. So I always recommend either.. A WiFi Access Point connected to the distant router by a network cable Or A WiFi Access point connected to the distant router over the mains. If you really must use Wi-fi then you might need special aerials to set up a point to point link between AP and router.

Sorry if I've missed it but.. What's the construction of the workshop and will the foundations be ok?

The only way you can "claim" for appliances is if they are "free" with your kitchen package.

Quite possibly, it was all I could find as well. As i understand it you are meant to be in compliance with Building Regs at all times, not just when you are being inspected by the BCO during/following construction work. Just as your car must have legal tyres all the time not just for the MOT test! (Although unlike a car, changes to the building regs are rarely if ever retrospective). When the room was "converted" to a habitable room a breach may have occured (for example because there wasn't enough insulation). From that point the BCO had 12 months to issue a section 36 notice requiring you to carry out work to make it comply. After that the BCO could go to court and get an injunction requiring you to carry out the work but in practice the high cost of this precludes them doing so except in cases where a building is obviously very dangerous. A more likely possibility is that a new owner might want to build a new extension or some other work needing approval and the BCO might spot the non-compliance and insist on additional work being done before he signs off the new work. If you advertise it as a two bed and the sellers solicitor discovers the non-compliance they have a duty to the buyer to point out the risk that the BCO might take enforcement action and the costs this might incur. They might not care, they might want you to take out an insurance policy, or at worse they may expect you to reduce the price to reflect it's value as a one bedroom house with garden room. Either way they can argue you priced it as a two bed house with no risks and there is a risk so the price no longer reflects it's true value. If you advertise it as a one bedroom with garden room there is no building regs issue so no scope to argue it's price doesn't reflect it's true value. I guess it's up to you which way you go.

Harry, I would just apply for what you want. They shouldn't be concerned about what you want to put up there, just on the external appearance. They might be worried that you could build both the remaining bit of the existing pp and the new loft conversion, unless the new one physically precludes this. If it doesn't it might be worth heading off that concern at the outset?

This issue frequently comes up when people convert lofts without getting Building control approval. It's normal for estate agents to refuse to list it as a bedroom.

https://www.planningportal.co.uk/info/200130/common_projects/9/change_of_use/3 "The building regulations may apply to certain changes of use of an existing building even though you may think that the work involved in the project will not amount to 'building work'."

As I recall habitable rooms, like Bedrooms, must meet building regulations but other rooms, such as store rooms and possibly some "garden rooms" don't necessarily have to meet building regulations. Edit: That would be the building regs at time of construction.

We have India stone stuck down with mortar on some steps and 10 years down the line we have had some come off. Our steps have rough cut edges rather than bull nose not that it makes any difference.

I think that would be difficult. Many lenders won't lend at all for development projects, they prefer completed houses they can easily sell if it all goes pear shaped. Personally I would keep around £25k (10% of your total budget?) as contingency cash and try and borrow the rest at the outset. Two reasons... 1) It's much easier to dip into cash reserves if needed than it is to go back to the bank for more money. In the intervening 12 months the banks policy may have changed or interest rates may have gone up and they might be more reluctant to lend. Your own employment situation might have changed. If you have money left at the end you can always consider repaying some of the mortgage. 2) Your lender may only release funds in stages that may not match your expenditure. Perhaps you need to press ahead with one part of the project that doesn't help you achieve a milestone for financing. You might need to buy materials for the next phase before they have made the stage payment for the previous one. Having a cash float can help with that sort of thing.

Most buyers like plots to be independently developable. What I mean is buyers don't want to have to rely on the seller providing access to services or anything else once they have purchased the plot. It's not unknown for sellers to disappear before the promised shared road or drain has been installed and the plot owner might not be able to legally provide these themselves if they don't own the land over which they have to be laid. So if anything like this applies to any of your plots it would be worth sorting out those issues before sale. However if the plots each have their own boundary with the highway where services are located then I probably wouldnt bother, I'd let the buyers sort it out. It also depends on the difficulty of connecting to services. For example if a new transformer is required then definitely better for you to sort that out.

Are they currently part of your main residence? Check out any tax implication of splitting the land before sale vs at sale.

https://www.plasterersforum.com/threads/shortage-of-plaster.75643/

And there was me thinking council's had to justify the CIL by making a list of infrastructure projects that need funding. Would be good to see what actually got funded.

My plot came with a 1 acre paddock. Had to hire a power scythe to cut it the first time. Currently it takes me about an hour to cut it with a Toro DH220 ride on which I think is a 40" but can't remember. If I let it get too long that can go up to 1.5 hours as the mower clogs regularly and boy is that frustrating. Wouldn't want to have to cut 4 acres with a small ride on regularly. The good news is it won't be long before it stops growing for the summer (or at least slows down dramatically). Be a bit wary about putting cars on _dry_ grass. I've seen two cars (and a tractor) set fire to the grass and end up burnt out, it doesn't need a fuel leak or anything the exhaust can just be hot enough. Edit: I also think you should just mow what you have. It's rather too late to reseed and I very much doubt you can supply enough water for that much turf. We nearly lost the new turf on our lawn as two sprinklers weren't enough.

Do you want to use it in winter?

Two blokes should have been ok with that. Wife and I did a 6m x 5m 150mm thick slab on our own but I had a dumper to drive the premix concrete around the house. Hardest part was working a beam back and forth across the top of the shuttering to get it level. I'm wondering if you didn't have quite enough delivered? If you end up a wisker short it's much harder to level because it's below the top of the shuttering. I think I would take deliver of the building and measure it to check exact footprint. Then build a 1 course brick wall with DPC on top (around the edge to raise the building and stop any water running in under. Sweep and sand blind the concrete. Lay DPM, insulation and boards on top.

BT Solar get a mention here.. https://forums.moneysavingexpert.com/showthread.php?t=5789208&page=2

Three methods to put In post and rail fencing posts: 1) A post hole borer: Have to back fill. 2) A post rammer/driver: You use a large pry bar with a pointed end to get the hole started then hammer in pointed posts. 3) Get a farmer to push them in using the bucket on a digger or similar. Use batten cut to length so they re all pushed to same depth.

I think a 25mm bit should go through most building blocks without to much difficulty, nothing like as hard as poured concrete.

If you need an alternative to SketchUp perhaps look at Fusion 360. Free for home users. See youtubd for how to get it free. Google suggests it supports BIM objects but I've not tried it. I found SketchUp easy to use at first, and even did a planning application using it, but then more complex things seemed hard. Been using F360 for only a little while but it seems easier to to me.

Didn't know there are two versions/voltages. I went for Hikvision POE cameras and a 8 port hub with built in POE support, hooked them up and they worked, no injectors or strippers. If doing so again I think I would investigate cameras with an alarm input and use a separate PIR sensor to trigger recording because motion detection either in the camera or server has problems. Possibily also separate IR illuminators to try and draw spiders away from the camera?

90 mins with my Stihl today and I managed about a quarter of it ? Seriously thinking about hiring a power scythe if I can get one at a good price. The bind weed keeps tangling around the strimmer head.