Temp

M I haven't had to use it in anger for a few years but if I start program with default settings and then just set the cycle time (box top right) to 10 mins it runs a test every 10 mins. Test currently fails because I haven't configured an upload server. Ping and download works ok.

You should also check your voice call quality. I was once told that BT are better at responding to complaints about noisy lines than broadband issues. Once they fix any line problems causing noisy audio that tends to make broadband more reliable as well. There is a number you can dial to do a quiet line test. https://support.zen.co.uk/kb/Knowledgebase/Performing-a-Quiet-Line-Test Obviously if its an issue with the broadband kit itself this won't help.

Perhaps try.. https://www.techadvisor.co.uk/download/internet-tools/jds-auto-speed-tester-179-3328664/

+1 @ProDave might correct me but if you were really stuck and couldn't replace the wire then nearest I think you can do to that set up is.. 2.5mm Ring Main -> 2.5mm wire -> 13A FCU -> 1.5mm -> single socket

Forgot to say that the prices on that web site for full tins have been good in the past. Had a few different things from them.

You might find something ready built. Quite a few companies making small devices designed to sit on a lAN, either wired or WiFi, with sensor inputs. 8 chan, 16 bit... https://www.audon.co.uk/remote_io_controlbyweb/X418-I.html Probably cheaper devices out there.

Even smaller and cheaper samples from.. https://www.wood-finishes-direct.com/product/osmo-polyx-oil Tiny 5ml samples for £1.09

I just think the wall plate has shrunk a bit. I don't see any major issues although that bit of bright blue membrane suggests there might have been a leak not so long ago, and the bearing end of the lintel looks a bit short?

Be careful, they are saying you could erect a 1m high wall without needing planning permission. However planning permission does not trump other issues like any right of access he may have over that tiny bit by the entrance. It's possible to get planning permission to build on land you do not own, but that doesn't mean you can build without the land owners permission. Sorry if that's obvious.

Ok so the issue is the shared gap in the wall. The neighbour may have acquired some sort of right of access over a small part of your land by continual use over the years (and you over his). In a sane world he would agree to you doing what you want on the basis that you widen both openings (or just his and move yours) and you both agree to extinguish each others access rights. Point out that resolving the issue rather than creating a formal dispute over access rights would boost the value of his property as well. If he won't agree to that I suggest you get some sort of legal opinion as to if a right of access exists. Perhaps it doesn't. Failing that perhaps stop your new dividing wall a meter short of the gap preserving his ability to use the full width of the opening. An alternative might be a curb or edging instead of a 1m high wall? That could go all the way to the front as it would still allows his access over it.

https://www.designingbuildings.co.uk/wiki/Non-material_amendment_to_planning_permission I would send ammended drawings and ask them to advise if the change can be handled as a non-material ammendment. Perhaps include your email address in hope it might speed up a reply. If they say yes then bang in the forms with another set of drawing and the fee.

Google found a reference or two but I don't know if they cover self builders.. http://www.mpwbrokers.com/products/house-builders-and-developers/ https://www.daineskapp.co.uk/construction-insurance/contractors-all-risks

Home made/crude notched trowel? https://www.rubi.com/en/blog/how-to-choose-the-right-tile-trowel-size-step-by-step/

I'm sure there must be several good books on the subject, not to mention CAD programs. I gather some can show you what your garden design will look like 10 years down the line when plants have grown.

Our bathroom has a sloping ceiling and triangular dormers which limited where we could put downlights. Electrician recommended a single line 55cm away from the wall that has the basin/mirror and shower against it. Actually works better than expected. Personally I prefer wide angle downlights (say >100 degrees) rather than narrow angle (typically 36 degrees). I feel the wider angle produces more even lighting and less shadows. If not too late put Zinsser paint on the ceiling (especially above the shower). After the problems we had I wouldn't use anything else now. Someone here recommended it to me. Fantastic stuff.

I've never used soda blasting but I've had to strip quite a bit of Oak. I used a coarse 36 grit on a Polisher/sander (aka MOP). I think mine is a cheap Silverline but its similar to this one from Draper. https://www.toolstation.com/draper-53016-1200w-angle-polisher/p19277 Not exactly an easy job but did the job for me. Main problem is stopping your visor steaming up so you can see what you are doing. PS: Mine was exterior oak so the rough surface it produced was ideal for taking Osmo UV protection Oil. If it's indoor the result of using a MOP and coarse paper might be too rustic?

I think you might do better spending a similar amount with a planning consultant. They are frequently ex council Planning Officers that have crossed over from the dark side.

Install a diamagnetic levitation unit?. https://www.ru.nl/hfml/research/levitation/diamagnetic-levitation/

Apparently the government advice also applies to care homes. That said I've heard lots of people are supplying to nursing homes and mental health facilities "direct" rather than via companies or organised groups. However this means they are probably getting unsterilised PPE. It's a mess.

Just how many switches do you need ? And every one different.

If I was building it, I'd probably drop some posts onto pad foundations rather than bolt it to the neighbours house.

This is our brickwork. Perhaps not quite as rustic?

Think they are mostly owned by private companies that set their own rules? I don't think many will allow booking in advance? Except perhaps... https://www.sourcelondon.net/question/how-do-i-reserve-charge-point There are several home charger sharing networks and they allow people to book. Also some movement on preventing ICEing.. https://www.alfapower.co.uk/alfa-power-wages-war-on-iceing/

It would help to see the plans you have had drawn up so we can tell why you need the steels. In some cases they can go above the existing ceiling joists and be hidden in stud walls. If you are having dormer windows rather than Velux you cant do that because there wouldn't be a stud wall there. Depending on how high the steels have to be that might be the correct option. I did a loft conversion on a bungalow with my dad back in the 1960s but not since. It went something like.. Fill in sides of I beams with timber (typically shot nailed or bolted to the web). Support ceiling and cut existing joists. lower I beam into place. Fix sister/floor joists alongside the existing ceiling joists and fix to I beam infill using joist hangers. Bolt existing ceiling joists to the new sister joists. Ideally the bottom of the I beam and bottom of the new joists should be about 1" above the top of the plasterboard so any flex in them does not transfer to the ceiling. That reduces plaster cracks in rooms below. For the same reason only the ends of the ceiling joists are bolted to the new deeper floor joists. However that assumes the new joists are sized to carry the floor load on their own, leaving the existing ceiling joists to just carry the ceiling load. If they are meant to share the load then more bolts are required and there is greater risk of cracking. It depends if you have the depth for the new joists needed. If you need to you can use long tailed joist hangers and wrap the tails over the top of the steels and nail to the timber infill on the other side as well.. Edit: A lot of care is required. For example in some houses the ceiling joists triangulate the roof stopping the roof pushing the walls out. So cutting all of them at once is not a good idea.

+1 Going to need an electrician to visit and take a look. Quite possible there is no mains electric supply to the building.