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Do you turn off your WiFi hub as well?

We spent over a year in pre-application advice, redrawing and resubmitting drawings, waiting and waiting and waiting. It cost me numerous air fares, hotels and car hire as we were living abroad. Then we discovered a letter they had sent a previous owner of the land that contradicted all of the objections they had been giving me. If the planning officer had been there when we discovered that letter I probably would have punched him.

@Russdl Have you considered putting an inspection chamber near B? Perhaps overkill.

+1 No need to keep it so close to the wall. The downpipes don't have to go into the top of the pipe run. Do the underground stuff in 110mm and there are rubber adaptors to go from 80mm down pipes to 110mm at ground level

Just finished printing another batch of face visor bands for the project I'm involved with. So far I've printed 80 which is no mean feat on my printer. I've gone through the three reels of filament and two ball bearings in the printer with another on the way out. It's the tiny bearings inside the idler pulleys that are failing. Another member of the project team found a way of printing and then ejecting the print into a bucket so another one can be printed! He uses some hand crafted gcode to get the nozzle to knock the print off the bed.

+1 Looks like its designed to take 4 batteries or a transformer so probably a 6v transformer somewhere.

I think that's telling you how to calculate the effective collecting area. Lets say your house had a footprint/plan area of 1000sqm and a weird roof that was half flat and half had a 45 degree pitch the effective area would be 500 + (500*1.5) = 500+750 = 1250sqm.

My parents stored apples in the loft but they spread them out on newspapers.

I think they may just be no win no fee ambulance chasers.

Make sure you understand the difference between a 10 Year Warranty and an Architect's certificate. They aren't the same. https://titan-insurance.com/architects-certificate-or-structural-warranty-insurance/

Do you have a quote and bank statement showing you paid same amount? I'd try that if you can't get an invoice.

Found one here.. https://www.yourspreadsheets.co.uk/soakaway-design.html Scroll down for download link. PS can't view it using the tablet I'm on. Needs macros enabled.

There must be a spreadsheet out there somewhere to bash the numbers for you? I'm mean one based on the BRE method.

British Gas started installing smart meters well before the government got interested. I think this was partly to influence the standard and partly because they thought it would make switching harder or at least discourage switching. The government set up a company that is meant to make all meters portable between suppliers. That will happen first for SMEETS 2 standard meters. After that they are meant to go back and make all SMEETS 1 meters portable. Problem is the government keeps extending the deadlines allowing companies to continue to install SMEETS 1 meters. I would love a smart meter but on principal I'm refusing until they can guarantee to give me a SMEETS 2 meter and force smaller suppliers to support it. Currently I think only the larger companies are even obliged to support smart meters (or am I out of date?) PS I'm a retired electronics engineer/project manager. Companies have been claiming a shortage of SMEETS 2 meters for at least a year. That might be true but the government doesn't seem to be asking why. Apple have no problems making many more phones and changing models every few months. I smell a rat.

The BRE have a guide. They normally charge for it but I found a copy online here.. https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&source=web&rct=j&url=https://www.ecomerchant.co.uk/productattachments/index/download%3Fid%3D29&ved=2ahUKEwig2frsr5DpAhWUtXEKHYSmBFMQFjABegQIARAB&usg=AOvVaw3u7CprWtvZacdYCQlxh2OX&cshid=1588257907298

Another possibility is to step the wall out instead of making it angled.

I had the same concerns but went for it anyway. We are also rural location with twin boys about 5 years old when we finished the house. They are 18 now. We went for engineered oak pre-finished with Osmo Hardwax oil and has stood up very well. We have only had to recoat the downstairs WC due to water damage. The only precaution we have taken is a rug in the entrance hall right by front dor. From there you walk through the the dining room to get to living room and kitchen. Hall and Dining room is engineered oak but kitchen is stone. We no longer worry about it and wear shoes when bringing in shopping etc.

Why can't it go in ceilings?

Do you actually need planning permission to convert the barn?

I don't think you need Building Control Approval but check.. https://www.planningportal.co.uk/info/200130/common_projects/43/outbuildings/2 It's likely the electrics might be notifiable. Eg need to be done by an appropriately qualified electrician who will self certify his work to Building Control.

It's a good idea to end all site inspections by asking the BCO/NHBC when he wants you to call him back for the next one as they all have their own idea.

I'm a late to this thread but also horrified. I can only add my support to all the words of concern by others. Pretty sure the under pinning work requires Building Control Approval. You as owner are ultimately responsible for getting that. Most reputable builders would tell you Building Control needed to be involved and factor the fee into their quote. Rogue builders won't mention it so their quote can be lower or they can pocket the fee. Building Control are very likely to want you to hire a structural engineer to validate the design of the retaining wall. Personally I wouldn't dream of building a 12ft retaining wall without input from a structural engineer. Have you notified your house insurance company about the building work? That's usually a condition of the policy. If the work you are doing causes damage your policy is very unlikely to cover you if you didn't tell them about it. Underpinning is a particular red flag to insurance companies and can put up your annual premium. In addition to permission for a a dropped kerb you might need Planning Permission. It's needed for the parking area if you just concrete it over without dealing with surface water run off. Eg rain falling on the concrete/paving must be collected and sent to a soakaway. You can't just let it run into the road, that's not allowed anymore. The council have some powers to make you comply with legislation. In extreme cases they can do work for you and send you the bill. If you can't pay they can force you to sell assets such as your house to pay the bill. That doesn't happen often but your work risks damaging other houses not just your own so they might take a tough line.

+1 The important bit about an "Application for a dropped kerb" is that it gets you permission to drive over the pavement. The annoying bit is the cost of dropping the kerb. Example.. https://www.tameside.gov.uk/kerbdropping

This is about cutting back branches but same applies to roots.. https://www.rhs.org.uk/advice/profile?pid=1022

The right has limitations... https://www.tbilaw.co.uk/site/blog/Business-News/what-can-i-do-about-my-neighbours-tree Since you know your actions might kill the tree you could also liable for damages due to negligence not just the replacement cost of the tree. The reason I know this is because I once was part of a group that was advised by a solicitor to write to a neighbour to make certain he was aware of problems his development might cause if he went ahead. You become liable for negligence damages if you know your actions might cause a liability but do it anyway. Writing a letter prevented him from later claiming ignorance. In my case it wasn't about trees but did involve a neighbour's plans to build something.