Temp

Typically you measure the opening and subtract 10mm (5mm each side and top and bottom) to allow for manufacturing tolerances. But the issue isn't a manufacturing tolerance issue but a spec issue. In no way can 46 x 110 be said to "match" 59 x 127. When you have one window above another, as you do here, the Architecturally "right" thing would normally be to match the width. The height normally being less critical. Its common to have higher ceilings and windows on some floors ... If the windows are side by side then the height would normally be the thing to match. PS no thats not my house.

You can probably get enough for £5.

could you lift the osb and move the sound insulation if its just one spot?

No it won't. Aside: concrete will need levelling even if what's underneath is level. Make sure you know how to do that and have people to help when concrete delivered.

The hardcore/infill should be compressed with something like a walker plate. I also compresses the sand. Are you sure the BCO wasn't referring to the overall height? Eg he thinks there isn't enough height left for whats going on top for the planed FFL?

I think it will be fine but I'd put a DPC between the blocks and osb.

Is that with you or them providing the digger?

We have a lot of oak outside, some treated some not. Untreated oak (eg padock gates) went black before taking many years to go silver with green litchen spots.

Don't you just hate it when you turn the TV on and someone has left it on the news channel and the first words you hear are "Hamilton/Botas has won the xyz GP......". Why can't that start with "and in motoring news..."? At least that would give me time to turn my ears off.

On solid clay with no ditches there aren't many options. If there is no convenient ditch you might propose a storm surge buffering tank/crate system with discharge into the foul water. A soakaway mound (or storm surge buffering tank and soakaway mound) might work if there is some surface permeability, but they can need a large area ideally down hill from the house. You can try not collecting rainwater and design the roof so water shoots off away from the house all around. After all before you build the house rainwater will just be spread on the ground. I think in some countries shooting water off the roof into large soakaways all the way around a house are used. Think the UK rules specify they must be a minimum distance away.

My understanding is that its very rare for there to be an actual breach of the right to light rules. https://www.irbnet.de/daten/iconda/CIB16863.pdf That suggests to be that a breech would occur if the development caused more than half of the room to have less than 1 lumen of light.

I would wait and see. Don't rush to change it. There are conservatories and there are conservatories. Does their conservatory meet the building regs as a habitable room (allowing removal of the door between it and the living room)? or should/have they retained the door? If its not considered habitable then you might point out its not a habitable room just a greenhouse.

Stone cills/polished marble like are popular in Europe. Even available in some European DIY sheds.

We have a visionic wireless alarm and a handful of wireless PIR sensors but its 13 years old so things may have changed. Positives.. Very impressed with their Quad series PIR sensors. Good battery life if you turn off the LED on them after set up (jumper inside). Never had a false alarm but we don't have pets. We use key fobs to arm/disarm the system like you do a car. We never use the key pad on the panel so its hidden away in a cupboard. It dials my mobile using land line when there is a status change. It has a wired output that could be used to operate an electronic lock, making it even more car like, but we've not used that. It has a wired input so you could connect some wired sensors if you wanted, but we've not done that. Negatives.. The set up menu i found complicated. Lots of features we never use. Things like "walk out zones" which I believe are sensors configured not to trip the alarm while you leave the building after arming via the control panel (which we never do because we use key fobs). You get 30-60 seconds anyway so we can still arm it while indoors. Our system is too old to linked to a security camera system. Well I think it could be but needed a box that wasn't available in the UK when we installed it. So we have a separate camera system. The integration might be better now?

Sounds like she hasn't realised you plan to replace that section of wall?

Sorry if you know this but... You can build upto the boundary but nothing must overhang without the neighbours permission, so no gutters or roof verge tiles projecting over the boundary. Getting planning permission or building control approval does not change that.

Check here to see who owned the original sewer pipe.. https://www.ofwat.gov.uk/nonhouseholds/supply-and-standards/responsibility-supply-pipes/

In summary... There would have been a fall from 208 to 204 that was "shared" between 208 and 206. Then along comes a builder and steals all the fall for 206 leaving none for 208. I would check your title deeds and the one for 206 to see what they say about the drains. The title can be obtained from the land registry web site for just a few £ and sent to you by email.

I think you might still be able to cast your own block/lintel.

Water is the bain of all outside lighting so make sure to use the highest IP rating you can get and check the design yourself. We originally used transformers that were potted and rated for burial in the ground. About half leaked. The air in the transformers expands and contracts with temperature changes and this can suck water in past even quite robust seals.

We went for some round copper wall lights like these.. Modified mine to 240V double insulated so i could eliminate buried transformers and use GU10 LEDs.

Do you have any other stacks? What about neighbours the other side of you?

The story doesn't make a lot of sense and understanding it is probably key to the best fix. All I can think is they broke or blocked the original pipe between you and couldn't be bothered to fix correctly so rigged this mess up...but it doesn't really explain the issue with falls. Where were your drains connected before? Could you reinstate your original connection and let the neighbours sort out whatever happens in their garden as a result? Or use rights or easements in your deeds to force them to fix the blockage or break in your original pipe? Is this pipe or the original owned by the water Co since the "recent" rule changes? If so perhaps they should be fixing it and chasing the neighbour?

Aside: If your pipes are this high is there enough room to fit the required large radius bends at bottom of stacks and ground floor WC?