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Presumably you have some paperwork that was signed at the outset. What does that say if anything? Just the total amount they will lend?

As I said earlier the main problem might be the affordability test? What earnings multiple will ganks lend on these days? Does the Ecology Building Soc lend in Scotland... https://www.ecology.co.uk/mortgages/residential-mortgages/renovation/?utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=997612303&utm_adgroup=44837786130&utm_keyword=%2Brenovation %2Bmortgage %2Blenders&gclid=Cj0KCQjw3s_4BRDPARIsAJsyoLOp8HfgCeyhzRbmCPy7qFYs5f0mGu8kHpmJFZOR-pH1pExqqzs_K9oaAnjgEALw_wcB What we lend on We are experts in providing mortgages for unique renovation projects and we don't have a 'tick box' approach to assessing projects – in many instances, we'll welcome projects that standard lenders may not accept. We will consider: Thatched properties Historic or listed buildings Fire damaged buildings Non-standard construction types, such as timber framed Buildings in a poor state of repair.

Welcome to the forum. It's not very safe to use an average figure as prices can vary a lot depending on the situation. In some cases you could be diggng short distances across grass verges and in others hundreds of yards along a road. Some work you can do yourself and some has to be done by a contractor working for the utility company. Some utility companies seem to exploit this and charge extortionate rates compared to what you could do it for yourself. I would budget £120-£150 per meter in grass and £200-300 per meter in tarmac plus anywhere from £1000-£5000 per connection. Much higher fgures of aren't unheard of..

Not since 2012 (unless it's a church?)

Google found there might be grants available but they are mainly for conservation quality repairs? https://www.mygov.scot/funding-listed-buildings/ https://www.historicenvironment.scot/grants-and-funding/our-grants/ https://www.historicenvironment.scot/grants-and-funding/our-grants/historic-environment-repair-grant/ ..and it looks like you need to be an organisation.

Check if your house insurance includes legal protection? These days it's usually a cost option but i guess some places may include it. It's not guaranteed they will fund a case against the surveyor but worth checking. So let's say it would be worth £280k finished. If you need to borrow £150k that's a 53% LTV which sounds possible. Main issue might be the earnings multiple/affordability. Are you living in it? If not has it been empty and for how long? If long enough you can avoid some VAT.

See the post by @the_r_sole The thinking is they only intended the window on the landing/first floor.

Possibly but the kitchen cold tap should really be from the main not a cold water tank.

I was told to estimate £100 a meter for most services across a field but that was 12 years ago so it sounds reasonable to me.

+1 or perhaps temporarily rig up the shower tray. The main issue with a shower is that the shallow water doesn't create much pressure to push the water down the waste pipe.

The more constricted the pipe the more energy it takes to push air through them. Won't be a hard limit. There could also be an issue with balancing if there is a big difference in pipe runs to different rooms.

If we are right those lines across the road are both pipes.

Not sure which mark you mean but the one middle right looks a bit like like an outflow from a drain that crosses the road. Eg a culvert

Sounds ok but I would jury rig something to test the flow rate that this pipe will take without backing up.

Found this while looking for something else.. Halifax self build mortgage info to intermediaries.. https://www.halifax-intermediaries.co.uk/print/criteria/mortgage/default.aspx?isfad=0 What have they got against that I wonder?

Welcome to the forum. Seems to vary a lot is all I can say. ESSENTIAL you do that BEFORE you start any work on site. Definitely wait for them to acknowledge receipt of that one before you start.

There is probably a site manager somewhere scratching his head trying to work out why they have run out of small windows. I helped wire an office block once and after fitting all the face plates we had a few floors with one light switch left over. Turns out the plasterers had just plastered over the metal back boxes on those floors. I suggested we use a pipe locator to find them but the electrician I was working for said a hammer and nail worked better. You just hammer it into the plaster until you hit a metal back box then call the plasterers back to fix all the holes ?

As for the supply pipes.. Whats upstairs and where is the hot water tank/boiler?

Whats access like down that side of the house? For the waste you could just run a pipe out through the living room wall and around the outside to the existing gully. I'd make the last part a bit lower so visually it blends into the plinth paint/render. It would need insulating (and possibly a pipe heater) to prevent it freezing in winter? I might be tempted to make it slightly larger in diameter as well. An alternative might be to trench along the same route for 110mm pipe and put a new gully near the new sink location.

+1 Fix the badly positioned/leaning fence posts and replace the panels. Check the panels will fit as there are some differences in dimensions. When you erect a fence you normally start one end and install post-panel-post-panel etc You don't do all the posts and then fit panels as the dimensions can vary.

So here is a rough sketch layout of what I think you need. I would start by using this to work out the height that the shower ends up and that the WC connection is possible. If that doesn't work you will either need to dig a new drain or look at a macerator..

Actually you will need to look at the heights very carefully. Your shower will need to be on a plinth of some sort but it might not need to be that high.. If you can use the unit in the link above the 110mm branch would be pretty close to the floor. Then you need to add about 1:80 minimum fall to get to the new bathroom. Then an adaptor something like this which reduces down to 50mm for the shower trap without adding height.. https://www.drainageonline.co.uk/above-ground-drainage/guttering/hunter-guttering/hunter-mini/mini-50mm-reducer-110mm-x-50mm?gclid=Cj0KCQjw9b_4BRCMARIsADMUIyqgePtWb8uO_l8u03Egc91LnXAvvmsjOYlfQqdkOQe-3ChPfL88CA8aAhdVEALw_wcB#fo_c=2925&fo_k=47ddc519e023e9019e2e0e9f1f65866b&fo_s=gplauk Then a low profile shower trap something like this.. https://mcalpineplumbing.com/traps/shower-traps-accessories/st90cp10-70c-90mm-shallow-shower-trap Ideally the new WC would connect into the top of the 110mm "horizontal"run using something like this rotated.. but the best solution depends on the WC. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Soil-Pipe-110mm-Tee-Branch-Light-Grey-Compact-Soil-Tee-Triple-Socket-/251338112146

If that pipe fitting is going into the existing 110mm outlet on the right then this one might be a better choice because the branch will be lower .. https://www.ebay.co.uk/i/264364736032?chn=ps&norover=1&mkevt=1&mkrid=710-134428-41853-0&mkcid=2&itemid=264364736032&targetid=908661247816&device=c&mktype=pla&googleloc=9045819&poi=&campaignid=10204071489&mkgroupid=107296306292&rlsatarget=aud-629407026665:pla-908661247816&abcId=1145987&merchantid=115094398&gclid=Cj0KCQjw9b_4BRCMARIsADMUIyq6Ol1LPLbq-MlUXAkTULwvojmw1v2yySTG8XP-CHzxHQXIJL-QBI0aAn7FEALw_wcB But don't pay £110 for it !!!!

Ideally you would run 110mm pipe from the new bathroom out through the wall to the drain that runs from the inspection chamber to the Septic Tank. I guess that's difficut given the concrete floor and stone walls hence your question.. I'm not sure why/where you need that particular branch connection but they are called corner branches... https://www.google.com/search?q=110mm+corner+branch&tbm=isch&ved=2ahUKEwiW0KCLydHqAhVCPhoKHaitBLYQ2-cCegQIABAA&oq=110mm+corner+branch&gs_lcp=CgNpbWcQAzICCAAyBAgAEBg6BggAEAcQHjoICAAQCBAHEB5Qr8MEWNfPBGCq0gRoAHAAeACAAUmIAdADkgEBN5gBAKABAaoBC2d3cy13aXotaW1n&sclient=img&ei=6ywQX9auDcL8aKjbkrAL&bih=795&biw=1329 They are called macerators but I would avoid one of these if at all possible. https://www.screwfix.com/c/heating-plumbing/macerators/cat831614

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