Temp

Sounds ok but I would jury rig something to test the flow rate that this pipe will take without backing up.

Found this while looking for something else.. Halifax self build mortgage info to intermediaries.. https://www.halifax-intermediaries.co.uk/print/criteria/mortgage/default.aspx?isfad=0 What have they got against that I wonder?

Welcome to the forum. Seems to vary a lot is all I can say. ESSENTIAL you do that BEFORE you start any work on site. Definitely wait for them to acknowledge receipt of that one before you start.

There is probably a site manager somewhere scratching his head trying to work out why they have run out of small windows. I helped wire an office block once and after fitting all the face plates we had a few floors with one light switch left over. Turns out the plasterers had just plastered over the metal back boxes on those floors. I suggested we use a pipe locator to find them but the electrician I was working for said a hammer and nail worked better. You just hammer it into the plaster until you hit a metal back box then call the plasterers back to fix all the holes ?

As for the supply pipes.. Whats upstairs and where is the hot water tank/boiler?

Whats access like down that side of the house? For the waste you could just run a pipe out through the living room wall and around the outside to the existing gully. I'd make the last part a bit lower so visually it blends into the plinth paint/render. It would need insulating (and possibly a pipe heater) to prevent it freezing in winter? I might be tempted to make it slightly larger in diameter as well. An alternative might be to trench along the same route for 110mm pipe and put a new gully near the new sink location.

+1 Fix the badly positioned/leaning fence posts and replace the panels. Check the panels will fit as there are some differences in dimensions. When you erect a fence you normally start one end and install post-panel-post-panel etc You don't do all the posts and then fit panels as the dimensions can vary.

So here is a rough sketch layout of what I think you need. I would start by using this to work out the height that the shower ends up and that the WC connection is possible. If that doesn't work you will either need to dig a new drain or look at a macerator..

Actually you will need to look at the heights very carefully. Your shower will need to be on a plinth of some sort but it might not need to be that high.. If you can use the unit in the link above the 110mm branch would be pretty close to the floor. Then you need to add about 1:80 minimum fall to get to the new bathroom. Then an adaptor something like this which reduces down to 50mm for the shower trap without adding height.. https://www.drainageonline.co.uk/above-ground-drainage/guttering/hunter-guttering/hunter-mini/mini-50mm-reducer-110mm-x-50mm?gclid=Cj0KCQjw9b_4BRCMARIsADMUIyqgePtWb8uO_l8u03Egc91LnXAvvmsjOYlfQqdkOQe-3ChPfL88CA8aAhdVEALw_wcB#fo_c=2925&fo_k=47ddc519e023e9019e2e0e9f1f65866b&fo_s=gplauk Then a low profile shower trap something like this.. https://mcalpineplumbing.com/traps/shower-traps-accessories/st90cp10-70c-90mm-shallow-shower-trap Ideally the new WC would connect into the top of the 110mm "horizontal"run using something like this rotated.. but the best solution depends on the WC. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Soil-Pipe-110mm-Tee-Branch-Light-Grey-Compact-Soil-Tee-Triple-Socket-/251338112146

If that pipe fitting is going into the existing 110mm outlet on the right then this one might be a better choice because the branch will be lower .. https://www.ebay.co.uk/i/264364736032?chn=ps&norover=1&mkevt=1&mkrid=710-134428-41853-0&mkcid=2&itemid=264364736032&targetid=908661247816&device=c&mktype=pla&googleloc=9045819&poi=&campaignid=10204071489&mkgroupid=107296306292&rlsatarget=aud-629407026665:pla-908661247816&abcId=1145987&merchantid=115094398&gclid=Cj0KCQjw9b_4BRCMARIsADMUIyq6Ol1LPLbq-MlUXAkTULwvojmw1v2yySTG8XP-CHzxHQXIJL-QBI0aAn7FEALw_wcB But don't pay £110 for it !!!!

Ideally you would run 110mm pipe from the new bathroom out through the wall to the drain that runs from the inspection chamber to the Septic Tank. I guess that's difficut given the concrete floor and stone walls hence your question.. I'm not sure why/where you need that particular branch connection but they are called corner branches... https://www.google.com/search?q=110mm+corner+branch&tbm=isch&ved=2ahUKEwiW0KCLydHqAhVCPhoKHaitBLYQ2-cCegQIABAA&oq=110mm+corner+branch&gs_lcp=CgNpbWcQAzICCAAyBAgAEBg6BggAEAcQHjoICAAQCBAHEB5Qr8MEWNfPBGCq0gRoAHAAeACAAUmIAdADkgEBN5gBAKABAaoBC2d3cy13aXotaW1n&sclient=img&ei=6ywQX9auDcL8aKjbkrAL&bih=795&biw=1329 They are called macerators but I would avoid one of these if at all possible. https://www.screwfix.com/c/heating-plumbing/macerators/cat831614

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Personally I'd go for a 25mm meter and I'd want all the pipework from the main to the house in similar. It wouldn't be hard to persuade me to install a 32mm pipe but then we prefer quite high flow rate showers. Our internal plumbing is 28mm copper to manifolds then 22mm branches to the showers and 15mm via pressure reducers to basins. Since moving in 12 years ago we've also noticed the mains pressure reduce. We get a lot of burst water mains in the area, typically 1-2 a year (possibly due the use of asbestos cement pipes and clay soil) and it seems every time that happens the water co nudge the water pressure down a little bit.

When I was looking for a builder I went to see a house being built near a canal in the east of England. It was a difficult plot but the but the architect had got PP for a modern contemporary "upside down" flat roof house. The living room upstairs had a large feature window with a stunning view down a long straight section of the canal. However the owner however had clearly wanted something more thatched cottage like and was fitting out the interior accordingly. The mixture of modern minimalist house and glazing with country cottage floral decor has never clashed more horribly.

May seem obvious but make sure the stage payments you agree with the builder are consistent with and ideally later than any loan stage payments. It's also customary to retain 5% of the overall bill for snagging and our architect suggested this should be subtracted from each stage payment rather than the last one if you see what I mean.

Our carpenter used oak veneered MDF. Looks identical to the rest of the staircase.

Machine made can look a bit flat/uniform/modern where as hand made are slightly twisted so they give the roof a more textured look when laid. Sadly the company we used went bust.

Our (otherwise) frameless shower glass has a chrome channel at the bottom where the glass sits meets the tray. The channel was fixed to the tray with clear CT1/silicone and more was used in the channel to bed and seal the glass into it. Virtually all of the sealer that squeezed out was wiped off. There is no obvious fillet of sealer anywhere. Been fine for 12+ years.

I guess I should have got that from your user name. It been a long week.

Windows are normaly lower so you can see out when sitting down. If it was me I'd put a wide patio door in there to max the view over lake.

Remember to take/mix bricks from all pallets at the same time in case the colour varies from one pallet to the next.

Make the whole wall one soldier brick longer?

I used a grindstone wheel in a drill to open up some holes in a brick wall for some new lights. Worked better than i expected.

If this is a semi detached house beware because I've read some BCO are asking you to get a written agreement from the other house that they wont do work that undermines your use of gallows brackets (eg that they wont do the same).

I bet he says that's up to your SE !