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This suggests the 7.5 ton van is big enough.. http://www.dontpanicyoureonlymoving.com/the-diy-mover/what-size-van-do-i-need 1200cubic feet is about 33cubic meters. If you don't fancy driving consider looking for a "man with a van" service.?

I think you can drive a Luton type van in a regular license. They are/were around 16cubic meters. Perhaps you can find a big enough van for one trip across the Solent. Van hire can be pretty cheap sometimes.

Perhaps box it with Wedi board and tile it?

It's measured by digging a hole and filling with water. As I recal the BRE guide has details of the procedure.

I think only aerogel is better than PIR. That's very expensive and in it's best form its fragile.

This place covers IOW.. https://www.hampshireinsulations.co.uk/about

First google hit says they deliver to some parts of Wales and if I've done my sums right it's under £17 /sqm inc VAT. Free delivery over £400. Otherwise £40. https://www.cutpriceinsulation.co.uk/collections/pir/products/quinn-therm-pir-insulation-1200-x-2400-x-150mm Edit: Ah ok the Wales reference had me confused. I see you are on IOW.

+1 I assume this is a knock down and replace? They are saying the new build will be smaller than the one you are demolishing so there is no cil to pay. Is that the case? This is better than using the self build exemption because there are no strings (no need to live there for 3 years after completion).

I believe the extension would be treated as a new and separate calculation. It's under 100sqm so the CIL would not apply. Even if it did (eg a 113sqm extension) there is an exemption for "self build" extensions. However you have to claim the exemption using the right forms or you become liable to pay it.

Im pretty sure you have that wrong. My understanding is that the 100sqm rule is just a test not an allowance. It applies to the new area before deducting the demolished area. So the calculation would be.. 120sqm is more than 100sqm so the CIL applies to all 120sqm. Then the 25sqm is deducted giving a CIL liability on 95sqm. PS the 25sqm building must be in lawful use to be counted. Eg it must be legal in planning terms.

Range of cylinder stores.. https://www.smartfabcovers.co.uk/shop/gas-bottle-pods/gas-bottle-pods/

I was going to switch to smaller cylinders but someone pointed out they have a lower flow rate and we gave a 6 ring hob. It's rare for them all to be used at once but has happened.

+1 Standard blocks these days are 440*215*100. Given you only need 40 the price wont be super critical so i'd probably go to somewhere convenient like wickes and pick up some 3.6N blocks if you are going to knock it down later.

I'd take advice from an SE. I really don't like the idea of using hardibacker board for this! Our SE specified 7N blocks with 14N blocks for our chimney and some pillars because we have a beam and block first floor.

Correct. If you are digging more than 3m from their house or outbuilding then you can go down to the 45 degree line (eg at least 3m deep) without involving the neighbour or PWA.

+1 As I recall a rear road did once mean PP was required for sheds in rear gardens but thats not the case now. Just check you meet every point on the planning portal site. PS I think the rules may differ for extensions between a house and a side road

I think sketches would certainly help.

If you dig more than 3m away you come under the "within 6m rule" rules and the 45 degree rule applies. Example: Let's say you dig 4m away. The 45 degree rule means you can dig down 4m at least before the party wall act applies. In fact you can go deeper because the 45 degree line is drawn from the bottom of their foundations not the ground level. In that case you can dig down 3m without needing to do anything.

Are you removing the wall or creating a significant opening between the existing and new? This would change how the weight of the wall above the opening is distributed on the foundations. Typically the load becomes more concentrated. If they are marginal then that might explain why they need upgrading.

Calculations look right to me. I believe you need to reduce the result by a safety margin. Factor of 2? I think the compressive strength of blocks is mainly a concern where you have beams and lintels that concentrate loads onto the bearing ends. I'm not an SE though.

We use a metal gas cylinder store. They come in different colours, typically grey and green. They can be a bit expensive for what they are but hide your cylinders well. Main thing I've discovered is that some 47kg cylinders are taller than others and the roof on my store is a bit low. It can be a job wrestling the cylinder into it. Helps if you have long hoses so you can connect up the cylinder outside the store.

Were using a pair of 47kg cylinders on a change over at the moment. I was going to switch to smaller cylinders when someone pointed out that a smaller cylinder might not provide the gas flow rate required. You need to check that or at Christmas when it's cold and you are using a lot of rings it may not work. 47kg cylinders are a pain to transport but many places deliver. We only need to change a cylinder every 18 months and we are family of four. Works very well.

In addition to a pressure test it's also useful to do a flow rate test.

Have you tried.. http://www.rugbytimber.com/index.html Says they deliver free in orders over £100 and ring for price under £100.

Got the receipt for VAT reclaim? If the builder purchased it ask him.