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Yes but not as a form. Actually use the pipes cast into the concrete block. Its quite common to run pipes through the foundation pour. The insulation allows a bit of movement due to settling but that is really only important when using clay pipes that can crack. You might also be able to put the beams of the b&b floor either side of the pipe and replace a block with a lintel. I'll try and make a drawing in a moment.

. Actually I'm miss reading the drawing. It shows the beam and padstone on the inner half of the wall. The side elevation drawing shows it below the new joists , which is done to prevent a thermal bridge.

If you put it on the outer leaf will it fit between top of lintel and underside of rafters/new ceiling joists? It appears to be shown above outer leaf on the drawings.

Some 13 years ago I paid £550 for a site survey and Tree Impact Statement. It listed all the important rees on site and their worth/quality or not and a description of the impact our development might have on 3 TPO trees. Eg "Tree 1,4 and 6 will need physical protection during construction to BSxxxx"

I think I would wrap short lengths of pipe in insualtion and lay them cross the top of the foundations. At some point cast them in concrete. If the beams of the B&B floor go either side of the pipe your cast concrete can replace a block and form a lintel.

Did our shower with Hardibacker and stone tiles. No issues 12 years on. Only thing is Hardi is pretty hard to cut. I've been through quite a few TCT jigsaw blades.

Dulux Endurance has been ok on our walls but I note others have found better above.

For bathroom ceilings especially over shower I've been convinced Zinsser is the best. Someone here suggested I try it and is solved issues we were having.

A QS we spoke to recommended withholding say 5% from each stage payment.

Thats correct but you can apply for a Certificate of Lawfullness on the grounds that development has commenced. Ive seen this done for a wind farm where they built the entrance then got a certificate so they were safe to put the development on hold while waiting several years for a grid upgrade. That is assuming you don't mind paying the fee.

There are a few videos on YouTube.

I'm not an SE but I am worried you have broken the triangulation provided by the rafter ties. In such cases i think you normally need collar ties (not enough headroom?) OR add a structural ridge beam (if suitable supporting walls exist for its ends to bear on) OR add Purlins (eg above your new steels and verticals between them) OR some combination of all of these maybe needed. The sort of work you are doing needs Building Control Approval and normally they would ask you to justify the design which is where an SE or similar comes in.

Not quite sure I follow that but you can't use hangers in a situation where the joist is in tension. The joist would pull out of the heel of the hanger. Even if it didn't it could just pull the steel sideways. I can't figure out from the photos what's supporting the loft floor if you removed the joists/rafter ties?

Unfortunately I have a feeling the changes won't help self builders much. As I understand it the council will have to decide which areas are suitable for development and in those areas they won't have as much say about what gets built. My suspicion is that they will designate large sites such as disused airfields or large greenfield areas alongside main roads rather than smaller areas more suited to self builders. I might be wrong but that's what has been happening in my area for some time. There is an area earmarked for housing development that has largely been brought up by the big developers, leaving self builders to fight over plots in villages outside this area that are subject to ever tighter restrictions.

Not sure if this will work... https://www.instantstreetview.com/@52.370122,-0.428756,282.1h,2.85p,2.4z The top step is level with the front door. There is a gap in the wall to the left of the steps and you can drive up to that level.

My reading is that any roof space you added when building the single storey extension counts towards the allowance for the loft conversion. Eg the volume of rooms on the ground floor of the extension don't count towards the allowance.

Hep02 do a 45/135 degree bend. https://www.toolstation.com/hep2o-obtuse-bend-135o-single-socket/p78071?store=U2&utm_source=googleshopping&utm_medium=feed&utm_campaign=googleshoppingfeed&gclid=Cj0KCQjw6575BRCQARIsAMp-ksMSj_S-qjzI35-xpbwjrZ9dI1w-M82q8Mq5YLNUtZ621bprbh3HC4oaArK9EALw_wcB

My level access area outside the front door extends far enough out from the house that we could put steps down off the sides for able-bodied people and coincidentally expose the vents. We also have beam and block floor. I'm away from home or I would post photo.

Is this a CIL area? Have you got your CIL exemption paperwork done and notified them of your start date on the right forms? Don't start before then or you loose the exemption.

Is it cheaper NOT to pay for parking and agree to pay the fines instead ?

We once lived in a house with a concrete first floor and liked it a lot, so when we built our own we opted for beam and block with UFH on both floors. Can't really tel you the cost hit as we used a builder as prim contractor.

We wanted to change and move the approved house back on the plot. The planners fought us for over a year. Then we discovered a letter they had sent a previous owner saying "a larger house further back might be better". When we produced it they gave in and allowed what we wanted. Cost us >£10,000. So its near impossible to predict with any certainty how things will go. Sometimes they can be very bloody minded and other times just agree immediately. Best advice is to try, but be prepared to build the approved house, perhaps with only minor modifications, if it all gets too much. Just don't give in too easily.

I would speak to a planning consultant. Aks if there is any chance of getting planning permission for two or more houses. If there is a good chance then buy and split the land selling off the bit you arent living in. No CGT if it's part of our main residence you are selling off.

Must be possible to find someone to do it sooner. What are the limits on who can do it?