Temp

Would it show up white limescale more?

I believe if built before 1948 the front of the outbuilding would also be considered the front of the original house. See top of page 15 in the technical guide. and the definition of original... So if built prior to 1948 it doesn't matter if the outbuilding was an extension its considered part of the original building.

Perhaps try.. https://www.utilitysearch.com

Some numbers here for gas and electric but I not sure if they cover the final mile or just the distribution grid. https://www.energynetworks.org/news/public-information/dial-before-you-dig.html https://www.dnvgl.com/software/software-services/maps-viewer-uk-gas-network-operators.html

Try asking a solicitor who they contact when doing searches for conveyancing.

I think a lot depends on if they consider the outbuilding to be part of the original house. Was the outbuioding constructed before 1948?. The original building is defined as... If before 1948 then option 3 might need planning because you are extending forward of the original front elevation. Eg the outbuilding is not an outbuilding and you are extending it forwards.

Typically you either need a vapour permeable membrane or a 50mm ventilated void below a non permeable membrane. The latter causes issues with the depth of insulation between rafters. You may need more insulation below the rafters. An alternative might be to switch to a warm roof which puts insulation above the rafters but raises roof height. That doesn't need ventilation but it's important to get an interstitial condensation risk assessment done for the proposed design. Don't let the builder just wing it.

Are there other houses set back from the road? In some cases the planners are wary about such "backland" development.

RSJ/UB are better especially if you are in a semi or terrace and other side has or will remove their side as well. PS I dont think they make RSJ beams any more, have been replaced by Universal Beams (UB) but the old name is still used by some people. They are essentially the same thing. Just mention that in case you get a quote that refers to a UB.

I was going to use slate but was told it scratches easily. Went for some black granite found at a local stone masons yard that I think was left over kitchen worktop. Got him to hone off the glossy surface to give a silk finish.

Raise the whole garden except for a narrow bit near the house to avoid bridging the DPC.

My understanding is that the raised area (I've not heard it called the visual warning area either) is raised to discourage rugs from being placed too close.

Approved Document Part J has the dimensions/rules but they are confusing until you realise that they are different for appliances that can and can't heat the hearth to over 100C, and decide which you are building for. If it can (eg open fire basket) you need diagrams 24-26 on pages 37 and 38. If it can't (eg stove on legs) you can use diagram 26 and 27 on pages 38 and 39. https://www.planningportal.co.uk/info/200135/approved_documents/72/part_j_-_combustion_appliances_and_fuel_storage_systems

Its all in VAT 708. In some cases (charity buildings?) HMRC require you to give the contractor a "certificate" which is basically a letter with your details, the plot details and your planning reference number. Also has words such as "I certify your supply relates to a non-residential building being converted to a dwelling and accordingly qualifies for 5% VAT". Think there is an example in VAT 708. I don't believe you need to give him a certificate but sometimes it can help. Several people on the forum have made up their own certificate.

Main Beams: The guide only covers main beams (eg the beam parallel with the wall) upto 3.4m (Table 3.1). If you want to use that guide you would need three posts to reduce span to 2m. In that case they suggest main beams are 195 x 44 C16 doubled up. Joists: Table 4 suggests 195 x 45 C16 for a 3m span. I don't know/think you can order oak to C16. May need to specify "Structural grade oak". I recommend any metalwork in contact with the oak is stainless steel as oak can corrode other metals.

I've not read all of this yet but it looks like it has the info needed and useful construction details... https://www.marley.co.uk/-/media/Files/Fixing-Instructions/TDCA-Raised-decks.ashx?la=en&hash=D5C139F512D2FF525C1A73044D89FA62 eg Beam Sizes and post spacing - Para 3.4 and Table 3.1 Wall plate - 3.6 Joist - 3.7 Bracing - 3.8

How old is it? Depending on how many leaks and how long its been like that the problem could range from just a few damaged slates need replacing to the whole roof structure needs replacing.

What has the Architect been contracted to to? In England it's common to contract the Architect for work up to and including Building Control Approval. That means after the drawings have been sent to Building Control and Building Control have accepted them so work can start. In some cases the Architect is also hired to oversee the construction work for a fixed fee, or just provide time at an hourly rate to modify drawings if necessary during construction.

I actually liked the elevations but first reaction was it will be expensive to build. I agree ther is a lot of circulation space and effectively three separate living rooms on ground floor. None of which looks like a main/large living room.

I think what will make this work is the 9mm OSB. It should stop air in the 50mm ventilated cavity getting around the gaps in the PIR. I wouldn't go for PIR without it or some other gap sealer.

We purchased a house from a surveyor. After having our own done by another surveyor we went back for another look. Chatting to the wife she explains our surveyor had been there ages, lifting manholes and getting her to run taps, going up in the loft etc. Turning to her husband she says "He spent far longer here than you do on a house". We made a mental note never to use his company.

We put cheap white vinegar in our dishwasher. Set machine going on a hot wash and wait for the initial pump out to finish. Then open door and pour it in. Can also use it as rinse aid.

Does the site already have planning permission?

And perhaps use plumbers lube (except where planning to add sealer).

+1 Its quite likely there is a ventilated gap on the cold side of the insulation so if the insulation isn't tight fitting cold air gets through the gaps to the "warm" side. There are many ways a good design can be ruined by poor construction. You could also put another layer of insulation fixed to the rafters in addition to taping joints. However this only deals with the problem in the cupboards. Its likely you have same issue behind the plasterboard