Temp

Quite a few manufacturers make machines for each other.. This is very out of date (2012).. https://hubys.co.uk/news-information/2/who-really-makes-your-washing-machine Sometimes its obvious machines are made by same company as the buttons are in identical places and things like the insides of soap dispensers are the same. Occasionally there are software differences so that the cheaper brand has a slightly slower top spin speed or more limited programs. We've had good experiences with Bosch appliances. One thing I like is you can buy spare parts from them. Yes some parts are expensive but at least I can get them and fix issues myself.

Are you converting the garage or leaving it as a garage? I would be inclined to go for a breathable membrane AND vent the new soffit.

Guidance on this subject here.. https://www.tendringdc.gov.uk/sites/default/files/documents/planning/building control/Flat roof guide.pdf If you insulate between the rafters you are making what if called a "cold roof" design. This simply means that the structural components of the roof are on the cold side of the insulation. If water vapour can get to this area it may condense on the now colder roof members. In summary you need to do the following (and do it well).. 1) Form a void above the insulation and adequately ventilate it to the outside as per the guide.. 2) Add a vapour barrier below the insulation. It sounds like you have been doing this but perhaps not well enough? In particular the amount of ventilation is important. Ideally you want vents on two opposite sides at the eaves to encourage a cross flow.

The valves don't have to be close to the taps. We have a free standing bath and instead of floor mounted taps went for wall mounted taps and spout to make cleaning easier. We actually built a false wall with all the pipes hidden behind/in it.

If you don't know the make it might be easier to replace the whole mixer. The distance between pipes can vary so check that before purchase. £46.. https://www.toolstation.com/stroma-thermostatic-bar-mixer-shower-valve/p53764 £43 https://www.toolstation.com/modern-thermostatic-bar-mixer-shower-valve/p88398 £39 https://www.screwfix.com/p/rize-exposed-thermostatic-mixer-shower-valve-fixed-chrome/491FV?tc=IB6&ds_kid=92700046986170840&ds_rl=1241687&ds_rl=1245250&ds_rl=1245725&ds_rl=1245250&gclid=CjwKCAiA_9r_BRBZEiwAHZ_v15Ak8TZEE0wU5nflU8i1YhawRgvR7PafjZ11XAXATXoCQRVmDT5V3RoCIvwQAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds £27 https://www.ebay.co.uk/i/264559057107?chn=ps&mkevt=1&mkcid=28 £20 ! https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Thermostatic-shower-mixer-bar-chrome-finish-1-2-includes-offsets/324364614057?_trkparms=aid%3D555018%26algo%3DPL.SIM%26ao%3D2%26asc%3D20160908110712%26meid%3Da5c345efdfa543c1847db15ccb2daa63%26pid%3D100677%26rk%3D2%26rkt%3D30%26mehot%3Dnone%26sd%3D264559057107%26itm%3D324364614057%26pmt%3D1%26noa%3D0%26pg%3D2386202%26algv%3DSimplAMLv5PairwiseWeb&_trksid=p2386202.c100677.m4598

You could even apply for PP for an extension before you purchase the house (although you would need the current owners consent on the application form).

Probably to ensure the gutter doesn't overhang?

The planning file already appears to show an objection from the owner of number 121 (which presumably is place you are interested buying). The objection refers to a Party Wall agreement and that "the roof has been a problem from the beginning". Edit: Just noticed that this was put up on the website today.

If I ever decide to switch from oil to ashp I'm first going to log how long the burner on the oil boiler runs for in January to get an idea of how many kWH a day are being used in cold weather. Cross check it against oil consumption. Not just going to rely on someones calculations of energy loss based on a quick look around.

Interesting to calculate how many of the round eaves vents you need to meet the recommendations in regs. If the insulation is at joist level they recommend the equivalent of a 10mm wide slot so that's 10,000 sqmm per meter. Typical round vent has a free area or just over 2000 sqmm so you need 5 per meter or say 2 per rafter bay. If the insulation is between and under rafters its a 25mm slot, 25000 sqmm per meter or 12 round vents per meter. Something like 5 per rafter bay.

+1 Get a soil condition report done, give it to your SE with drawings for the house and have him do a foundation design. He may also need to know about any trees that are close by or which have been removed. I didn't need piled foundations but a smaller house 5 doors down did.

If you just want it sorted get an oil boiler fitted. Big enough to do the whole job not just back up the pellet burner. Otherwise I think you need legal advice ASAP as time is probably running out. Find out if you have a case and what it would take to fight it. Mention the credit and ask if the consumer credit act makes the energy saving trust jointly liable (I doubt it). If you can't get advice quickly I would write recorded delivery to the company you purchased the system from (the installer?) stating that the system has never worked as intended and reserving the right to take action if they are unable or unwilling to rectify by date. Give them a fixed period to espond like two or four weeks. Check if your house insurance has legal protection (even if it does it might not help).

You could set up a regular Dusk Sensor to switch power to a dimmer. Then arrange a PIR sensor to bypass the dimmer.

+1 Its quite common to use a small "Garage CU" with an earth rod for outbuildings. This typically has one RCD and two MCB one for lighting (6A) and the other for power (32A). https://www.screwfix.com/p/british-general-5-module-3-way-populated-garage-consumer-unit/1926G?tc=IB6&ds_kid=92700055281954493&ds_rl=1249401&gclid=Cj0KCQiA3NX_BRDQARIsALA3fILaUGJznmB2qwdtKhJnHkYM3WQbCrPl4GQPowzJH7vT-UIHjQUQwPgaAie8EALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds Although something different might be needed for a hot tub.

Presumably they have just discovered a reason why they need to apply for retrospective planning permission. It means your identical extension would probably need planning permission as well and could face difficulty due to their windows. However it might be possible to build a smaller extension without needing planning permission using permitted development rights. Typically you can extend back 3m if its a semi but check if PDR has been removed or modified when your house was built. Look for planning conditions in the planning grant. Is their extension right on the boundary? How near is it and does anything overhang like gutters?

Hello, I'm your new neighbour, thanks for the flowers, oh by the way I've just objected to your planning application... thats what I call getting off to a good start ?

Lets start by assuming you extend it in 6mm so the full run is probably 34m = 7+25+2. In which case an online calculator suggests the max power you should draw is about 9.5kW. Thats about 40-41A. I don't know if the regs allow you to extend the 6mm with 10mm but the voltage drop calculation would need to be done manually.

Needs a vent in the door or at least a gap under it or the extract won't work.

In some old houses they have little to prevent damp getting in. Solid walls, floors without DPM etc. These can sometimes rely on draughts to remove water and keep them dry. Seal them up and you increase humidity and risk condensation and damp issues. Don't seal them and you have draughts and expensive heating bills. The only way I can see to solve this is an MHRV system but to be effective you need to do a good job of the sealing.

Are you with BT? BT advertise some sort of wifi guarantee don't they? Think they give you a free widget of some sort if wifi won't reach to all rooms? Otherwise there are loads of WiFi "Access Points" around as other have mentioned. I quite like those from Draytek but they are more expensive. Once connected up you might have to log in and change the wifi channel so its different to the one in your router. The router will probably be on channel 1. I recommend channel 6 for the access port unless the neighbours are already using it.

PS Building Control may have a view on how it must be done.

The best method is probably to build stud walls with an air gap. Make sure its air tight as any water vapour that gets through may condense on the cold brickwork. Bricks aren't waterproof. If you want to fix direct I think the insulation manufacturers recommend fitting a membrane first or standing the insulation off the wall on battens... https://www.kingspan.com/gb/en-gb/products/insulation-boards/insulation-technical-hub/articles-and-advice/how-to-insulate-a-garage-conversion-wall-insulati

They call it rent rather than interest.. https://www.unbiased.co.uk/life/homes-property/what-is-an-islamic-mortgage-and-how-do-they-work "Sharia-compliant mortgages are really ‘mortgage alternatives’ and function as no-interest home purchase plans. Though there are several variations across the market, all work in the same basic way: the bank buys the property on your behalf and becomes the legal owner. Your monthly payments function more like rent, with a portion going towards buying out the property owner’s stake. At the end of the term you should either have bought the property back, or have an outstanding sum left to settle before you become the legal owner." Continues..

The risk is they don't resume providing policies. Would the alternative £2931 also be increased by 100% to £5862?

Is there an obvious telephone pole nearby and what do neighbours get? If there is a pole near your boundary you could do what we did and run your own cable to the bottom of the pole and leave enough to reach the top. The engineers that eventually come to do the connection are usually happy to connect it up as it saves them some work. If Openreach refer you to a broadband company I recommend using BT or Plusnet (which is owned by BT). Then later switch to whoever to want to. That's because BT and Openreach are still essentially the same group of companies. The 4g route is worth looking at if 4g coverage is good in your area.