Temp

Dont forget the neighbours would have to prove your work was responsible for the damage. How close will your foundations be to theirs? All houses on same level?

Think we used crushed limestone hardcore but then my builder used that stuff everywhere. Think he had shares in the company ?

If the joists deflect/bend too much then normally I'd suggest replacing with solid floor (hardcore, sand blind, DPM, insulation, UFH in screed) but if you have 700mm deep voids it might be worth replacing the 100mm joists with deeper or possibly a beam and block floor (B&B, DPC, insulation, UFH in screed). Alternatively add more supporting walls under the 100mm joists. If sticking with 100mm joists I would fit 100mm insulation between them. Then board with something like two layers of 18mm WBP screwed down at 150mm centres then use an UFH system like this one on top.. https://ambienteufh.co.uk/tiling-over-underfloor-heating/ I might be wrong but think this type is limited to medium and large format tiles. Not small mosaic as they can be damaged by point loads. The more insulation below the UFH the better. Less wood above is also better.

I suspect they might carry the weight but might not be rigid enough to stop tiles cracking. One test I've seen mentioned is to put a glass of water on the floor and have someone walk around. If you can see the surface if the water vibrating then it's not rigid enough. Not very scientific though.

Seems there are also different types of core used in laminstead glass... https://www.narm.org.uk/glass-rooflights-clarifying-safety-standards-and-recommendations-for-specifiers/

+2 Toughened glass can still shatter but does so in small bits to prevent deep cuts. Laminated holds itself together to prevent you falling once its shattered... https://www.elitebalustrade.com/glass-juliet-balcony/?v=79cba1185463

Ideally you would turn on all taps that are mains fed at same time (even hot taps if you have a combi). Measure flow rate at each and add them up. Still won't be measuring the max available from the main but about as close as you can get.

+1 although I wouldn't spend a fortune. Basically its agricultural rather than residential land. So you can normally use it for growing things or keeping animals (unless other restrictions apply). You cant officially treat it as garden so you're not allowed to set up permanent swings and slides. Even jumps for a pony have caused problems elsewhere because jumping a pony is different to grazing one. What you can do is use it for almost anything you like for up to 28 days a year. So things like letting the scouts use it for a 1 week scout camp or even a motor bike scrambling session is normally ok (as long as you don't create a statutory noise nuisance). If you want to turn it into part of your garden officially you could apply for planning permission for "change of use". If you just "do it anyway" you might get away with it unless its very obvious from the road or someone complains. If you get away with it for 10 years the planners loose their ability to take enforcement action. So make dated records of when you started using it as a garden. Even if the planners get unhappy they almost never just hit you with formal enforcement action. There are no instant fines. They would first send you a letter warning you that unless you return it to its original state they "intend to take enforcement action". Don't panic. At that point you could either comply or apply for planning permission. The latter would delay any enforcement until the application is considered (perhaps a few months). If planning permission was refused you could appeal potentially delaying things for a year. In theory if you still refuse to remove the playground then the council could take it down and bill you for the work so don't let it get that far but you can still give them a good run. Deliberately hiding the equipment with say straw bales allows the planners more time to initiate enforcement action (law changed after someone hid an illegal castle that way!)

You can get improvements in pressure. Not the static pressure, that won't change, but the pressure in your house at a set flow rate can improve. So for example suppose your static pressure is 2.8-3 bar and your open pipe flow rate is 20L/min. Then the pressure at say 10L/min can improve. Likewise the flow rate you can draw before the pressure falls below say 2 bar can increase. How and where was your 20l/min measured?

+1 Some companies that sell non-negligent insurance claim other policies only cover you if the damage to a neighbour results from your negligence. So read the T&C for your site insurance policy and see what it says.

Have you checked that the asking price for the freehold is reasonable? These days you can get the leasehold extended to 999 years effectively making the freehold worthless if the ground rent is low. The cost of the extension should be similar to the freehold I would think.

Can't you buy duct with a draw string already installed? That's what we did for the electric. Otherwise I'd try laying it out straight on flat ground, tie something like a sash window weight to a light string. Lower it in one end using a step ladder, then pull the duct over the steps or "walk" a wave shape section of pipe along to the other end (eg so the weight surfs down the wave ?

Now I understand what he's built I agree with both you and the builder. It's close enough. Just make sure the fitters use packing. We had to raise a window or two.

Yes that clearer. Dealing with people is the hardest thing about self building.

All you need now are some lights and a hydroponic system ?

+1 The sill and waterproofing the level entry/ramp seem to cause more issues.

Just read the OP again... So just 4 bays or 8 rafters. Should be simple enough.

Presumably because its hard to hammer nails into springy battens? Would 2*2 battens solve the problem?

If you rotate the plate slightly it might be possible to close up even the 1mm gap.

Looks like the wheels are too big to do that?

The very expensive Perrin & Rowe shower mixer has a Temperature lever and an on/off lever that seems to work ok as a flow control lever on mains pressure. I suppose it might be considered a little sensitive but then we have pretty high pressure. You can add a separate Diverter Lever valve to send the output wherever you want (but not to two places at once unless you add more levers). Problem is both P&R diverter valves we have tend to stick. To move it you have to wiggle it back and forth gently. If you try and force it around in one go you can break the spline adaptor inside. So unless they have fixed this problem I can't recommend it.

While on this subject... I had been using "Ronseal general purpose wood preserver" which was a spirit/oil based preserver. It behaved like a dye soaking into the wood. Looked great. However that seems to be no longer available so I tried a Ronseal Shed and Fence preserver. Problem is this behaves more like a pigment. It partly soaks in and leaves blotchy patches of light brown pigment on the surface. Looked horrible when I tried it. So does anyone know of an alternative? Is their "Total Wood Preserver" more like a pigment or dye? Otherwise I think I'm looking at creosote substitute which is still a dye like product.

That still doesn't make a lot of sense to me. If the bottom track will be too low in relation to the finished floor level then I would make sure there is some 8mm packing/cement board available and tell them to use it. But I don't get the issue with the height of the opening. Are you saying that if they use 8mm packing at the bottom then the door won't fit in the opening because the lintel is too low? If yes then you have a problem. If no then more packing at the top.

Regs have changed since we built but all in here... https://assets.publishing.service.gov.uk/government/uploads/system/uploads/attachment_data/file/540330/BR_PDF_AD_M1_2015_with_2016_amendments_V3.pdf