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If you notify the planners in writing (recorded delivery copy the legal department) and they continue to publish the libel I suspect that makes the planners liable for damages for negligence.

Most terrace houses are alowed to extend back 3m under Permitted Development eg no planning permission required. They can also extend back 6m without planning permission if they follow the Permitted Development Prior Approval Process which involves consulting you. They can extend all the way to the coast if they apply for full Planning Permission and the planners approve it. This process also involves consulting you. You do not have to respond to the consultation but if you don't they will take it that you aren't objecting and they will be allowed to build to 6m. I'm afraid you will have to decide what you can live with. I recommend doing that and telling them. You can say I can live with 5m? 4m? meters but any bigger and Im afraid I will object because I think it will be too overbearing, sorry but that's how you feel. In that case they will have to decide between... Scaling it back to what you have said you can live with or. Submitting a planning application for what they really want. Bear in mind that might be 7 or 8m not 6m. You also have rights under the rules of trespass (nothing must overhang the boundary not even gutters, so the wall must normally be built 6" to 1ft on their side to allow for that) and possibly the Party Wall Act.

I can't find anything difinitive about materials but VAT 708 does say that some services are standard rated if carried out before PP is granted eg demolition and site surveys.

Personally I wouldn't rely on this just yet but it might help anyone that has made a mistake and missed something.

https://www.rossmartin.co.uk/vat/vat-cases/5833-multiple-diy-housebuilder-claims-permitted It also appears you dont have to prove completion....

My understanding is no. The development has to be lawful and qualify for zero rating when the materials are purchased. i recall a case where someone got PP for a granny annex that couldn't be seperately occupied so wasn't eligible for the VAT reclaim scheme. Then half way through building it they got the planning condition removed making it eligible for the VAT reclaim. HMRC decided only materials purchased after the condition was removed could be reclaimed. I don't know if it went to appeal. Edit: or maybe it just has to be legal when the materials are incorporated into the building?

Bit late but.. Normally the grippers are fitted about 8-10mm away from the skirting not right against it. The carpet is hooked over spikes on the gripper then tucked down into that gap. See this vid.. Skip to 1:48...

Ideally run cable straight out if wall to TV with no connectors ? Otherwise use F type.

A booster amplifies the signal. A distribution amp splits the signal multiple ways. A true distribution amplifier doesn't really amplify the signal much (Normally just enough to correct for losses in the "splitting process"). However some products that look like distribution amplifiers do amplify the signal to varying degrees. So you may or may not need one of each. Given a clean slate... you want as big an aerial as possible/needed so you don't need an amplifier. If you already have the right type and size of aerial and signal strength is still an issue then you might consider an amplifier. The best type is a mast head amplifier that goes at the top of mast near the aerial and is powered up the cable coax cable. Then if you want multiple outputs you use a distribution amp that doesn't amplify the signal much. This overall approach of putting the amplification close to the aerial minimises noise on the signal.

Also.. https://github.com/home-assistant/operating-system/issues/245 snip Hope that make more sense to you than it does to me.

I only speak Arduino but perhaps.. https://www.reddit.com/r/raspberry_pi/comments/ebapu0/psa_in_raspbian_mac_addresses_are_set_on_first/

See if there is an incoming fuse and what its rated for. What your supply can deliver varies a lot. I think the modern standard is a 100A supply but sometimes fitted with a 80A fuse. Some houses are lower. If not obvious get an electrician to advise. Fuse if there is one can be near the meter rather than the CU/fuse board. Have you purchased the cooker yet? If your supply needs upgrading you might consider switching to an LPG gas hob on cylinders and electric oven instead. We have Bretannia multi fuel set up. It's normally the rings that draw a lot. Ditto electric showers - a 10kW draws around 44A.

Nothing a crate of beer can't solve I suspect.

In my experience the "working height" specified for scaffolding is a foot or perhaps 18" optimistic. Eg you can reach that height with a paint brush but not look down into a gutter that height. Personally I don't like the type that extend up above the hinge.

Forgot to add that we got our architect to do BC and some construction drawings because our place is pretty complicated. Concrete first floor for example.

I think it might be a bit too late in the year to get a bat survey done. Think they can only be done May to September but might be wrong. Get on the phone ASAP. Personally I like builders that make such suggestions. Suggests they have thought about what the job might involve or they are anticipating what BC will want. Ideally speak to Building Control, tell them where your plot is and see what they want/ expect. For anything complex involving steel beams or non-standard construction they will want drawings and calculations. You might get sent a standard list or useful comment. Hard to tell. In some areas you will be lucky to be able to get hold of them. The gold standard for a new site requires test pits be dug and a ground condition report compiled so a structural engineer can design the foundations for Building Control Approval and your builder to work to. In some areas on known good ground that would be overkill and you can just copy what other builders have done or go with suggestions from the BCO. .

I consider man made climate change to be settled science. We know C02 is why the earth isn't -18C. We know we have and are emitting vast quantities of CO2. We know what happened to temperatures last time C02 levels were high. We can see the climate is changing. We can see and measure ice melting. We can measure the sea level rising. Can predict the consequences of doing nothing.

It works with any system that has a pressure gauge in the pipe to the stove. Think it was just part of the installation procedure for the auto change over.. You connect everything then open the bottle to briefly pressurise the pipe to the stove then shut it off and leave it overnight to see if it falls. If there is a leak you only loose the gas in the pipe not whole 47og bottle.

Just for info.. our regulator/auto changeover has a pressure gauge which can be used to test for leaks. You just turn off the gas bottle and see if the pressure in the pipe to the cooker falls overnight.

+1 only use pocket/sliding doors if no alternative. Pain for general use as you can't really open and close them as quickly.

We have plastic covere copper pipe all way from regulator on the bottles to Britannia dual fuel cooker. Comes up through floor behind it. Think we have one joint outdoors underground. Wrapped in denzo tape.

Does it detect that the bath has been emptied before someone presses it again ? I guess that's OK if its got an overflow that can cope with the flow rate.

Perhaps boiler outside with tank where current boiler is inside.

In my opinion most of the cleaning is done by flushing and refilling. Some cleaning products are mildly acidic and there might be some truth in old systems being held together by scale. I would flush it two or three times, refill, test everything works (so no trapped air) then put in corrosion inhibitor. If you measure how much water comes out when you drain the system you can calculate the amount of corrosion inhibitor needed correctly. See instruction on bottle. In general a bit too much inhibitor doesn't harm.

My choice would also be a system boiler and 300-500L tank. Perhaps with the boiler mounted on wall over the tank. If that's really not possible... Storage combi are just regular combi with small tanks built in. They help boost flow rates but only as long as the tank allow. With three showers going that wouldn't be long. Think I'd try and find a high power combi or possibly two small ones. Let's say you are happy with the flow rate from a 10kW electric shower. Then a combi to power three would need an output of at least 30kW. So I'd look at something over 30KW and check what flow rate they say the DHW side can deliver. Or perhaps 2 showers on the combi and one electric? Or you can measure the flow rate from your favorite shower and work out what flow rate you need for two or three of those and check the boiler can deliver that and more. Then you also need to check that the cold mains supply to your house can deliver it. Then check the CH of the boiler is adequate for heating the house. I'd also look for a fully modulating boiler. I'm not a plumber or heating engineer.