le-cerveau

Would need to see the other floor plan, but suspect that ducts go down along and then back up to wall vents.

Split it up between financial institutions. You can double that amount for joint accounts's (it is per person). Slap as much as possible in a CASH ISA (easy access), and the same again next year. (remember this counts towards the 85K limit) so if it is a CASH ISA i with your bank deduct that from your totals. Everything else is risk based and I would seek professional Financial advice if it is a significant amount.

You can quote EU competition Law (until next year)!

Look like Enphase micro inverters M215/M250

How will it be finished off? Wall, fence, hedge.... If you have no more major equipment to come on site I would consider to start installing the end solution, so people don't get used to the space. If left open (as you say) it will get abused. PIR light shining down and they shouldn't be driving that fast if it is a narrow lane anyway!

All landline, through the existing copper. 78Mb Connection (same as BT). The Vodafone network takes over at the exchange. I am actually taking an option with a 4G celular backup in case the line goes down.

I have recently ditched BT, I was tied in until Jun/Jul 19, however with the price increase you can ditch within 30 days of notification. I am going with Vodafone as we are in the FIbre area (Fiber box "in" my front hedge). I gave BT the chance to match Vodafone but they could only offer the broadband at the same price then you added line rental, Vodafone had no line rental. So next day I confirmed with Vodafone and called BT to tell them to (politely shove off), they then offered me the price without having to pay line rental and if you go online you can get it with "line rental for 18 months included". I wonder how many customers they had to lose before realising that everybody else was offering prices without charging line rental! Out of principal I was going to leave anyway (issues with our re-connection another story) and would recommend that to anybody as they are pushing themselves as paying more for a premium service (their quote) when I quoted the Plusnet prices to them (BT owned) and they also pushed free BT sport (I am not interested in subsidising Footballers, if I was I would have Sky Sports packages). We are also changing the in laws over to Vodafone Fibre. anybody else looking at this?

If you have this in writing I think you have them over a barrel! They call it infill it can't be isolated (by their own words).

Must be lucky ours is 2.73 mg Ca/l

Our main room is 10m x 8m with a 5m x 5m stub. Ceiling is 2750mm in the centres and 2650mm at the edges. This is high enough. though the room is broken down into 4 zones with the ceiling changes. Kitchen zone with a drop island holding the extractors. Lounge zone. Dining zone. small joining zone by front hall door. Using LED strip/ribbon lighting around the transitions. Kitchen 4K lighting, 3k in general areas and 2.7K in bedrooms

I had a 150mm service void all across the ground floor, that increased to 250mm in areas of lowered ceiling, features to break up the large kitchen/living/dining, room. This provided space for MVHR, cables...... Lighting I put LED ribbons (my electrician) around the dropped parts to provide lighting with some spots. The LED ribbons work very well.

In a couple of the rented houses we lived in (build build to base spec) this was evident (MoD requirements for wardrobes in bedrooms) a large fitted wardrobe, over 2m wide with a single (unsupported) shelf and rail. There was massive sag before we got there! The rules are impracticable for anything over 1m wide! I had the wardrobe built in (stud end wall) the doors and the single shelf VAT free, then everything else build by my builder and VAT chargeable, to make the wardrobes usable.

My extractors were VAT free and they are recirculation units, they are part of the ventilation system so allowed.

My system is based on the old cells, UniQ equivalent would be 4 x UniQ HW6 (2 with PCM58 and 2 with PCM34). They are wired in Parallel to give higher flow (ie 2 x PCM34 in parallel, followed by 2 x PCM58 in parallel) so parallel (same PCM) and series (PCM34-58). The ASHP heats the PCM34's (low pressure circuit) and the UFH takes heat from the same. The PCM58's are heated by a boiler (may change in due course) (low pressure circuit). DHW is parallel into High pressure circuit (PCM 34) followed by (series) parallel into the 2xPCM58 high pressure circuit. There is a tap off at the interface for the DHW mixing valve to mix the Hot from the PCM58 with warm from PCM34 to give distribution water temperature, also the circulation system returns to this point. We have 5 showers and 2 baths. Though the showers are Hansgrohe ecoflow (9 l/m), we have a Rainmaker Select 460 2 jet with a hand shower and a highflow valve so I can select 2x overhead jets and the hand shower all at 9 l/m each = 27 l/m and the system easily copes (though officially it is a 9 l/m shower). Our house is just over 400m2 and PH standard (not certified). As @Nickfromwales say DHW is the key, heating an aside and just taken from the preheat system. My cooling does work and has been kicking in, though it takes all day for the house to heat up and it is in the evening when cooking that the greatest effect is, cooling then starts to kick in, as night comes in and the outside temp drops the MVHR goes into bypass and helps cool the house down so by morning it was back to normal. I had the cooling set not to come on until above 24 and it would only kick in in the evening when we were all home and cooking. By morning the house would have cooled back to 23ish, mostly based on MVHR bypass as the cooling will shut down below 24 (as currently set).

Yes, that is what I have done, though mine are pre UniQ units. I have a Panasonic 9kW Split.

There are two options: terminate it all by your master phone socket: You need the space to fit the networking gear, more than just your BT Hub. Terminate all at a central/convenient location: You need min 2 runs from the BT master socket to here, one for Data and one for Voice, you have the modem at the BT socket (max speed) run data to the central point and then distribute. You can also run your voice (over Cat 5/6) to the central point and distribute as required. You don't need to put in phone cable, again just use Cat 5/6 to all points you conceivably want a phone linked back to the central point. With your size house Wi-Fi penetration shouldn't be a problem but if you want good Wi-Fi coverage, think about where you want the Access Points. Also Internal and External CCTV points, these can all be powever over Cat 5/6 (PoE) with the right equipment.

A classic case of he who shouts loudest (threatens them with the ombudsman). The majority of customers won't be bothered how long it takes to transfer and will happily accept crappy customer service whilst doing so. This (customer service) issues reminds me of my run in with BT who cut me off after moving the phone line to the re-build from the site box and took over a week to re-connect a fully functional phone line (and have the cheek to charge me for it) after months of faffing around. I had to e-mail the MD with my OFCOM timeline (3 months) to get any traction.

Yes, I installed 72 runs and I still don't have enough is some areas!! You will be surprised at what you can use it for. I hardwire everything possible so that Wi-Fi works when needed.

I used ESBE valves in my setup. VRG 130 rotary valve with a CRA 110 thermostatic controller for the mixing valve. MY setup is custom with one mixing valve supplying the two pumped manifolds. This draws heat from the SunAmp (PCM34) and blends with the return, temp set at 26C and fully adjustable. I also have VRG 230 diverting valves used to select the no-heating required/cooling setup. Not cheap, but totally configurable, though my plumber didn't have a scooby on how to install them and had the inserts 180 degrees out so initially it wasn't functioning as expected. I resolved this by simply removing the controllers, rotating the drive shafts to the correct positions and re-assembling, just a question of reading the instructions!

I think you will find it is PCM34 not 43. I have a couple of pre UniQ cells attached to my ASHP. The cells require water at least 5C above the temperature to work currectly and they are set to 45C (factory default). This is the same for the UniQ PCM34 cells.

All our door openings were 1000mm, so slightly smaller doors, there were a few smaller ones (children's en-suites) cupboard under the stairs, plant room as smaller ones were required. The door opening to the garage and front door was 1200mm. My mother is in a wheel chair so default to large. Large doors look so much better.

A lot there and I am sure @Nickfromwales will comment. A combi boiler is designed to provide DHW or heating without a cylinder. UFH and boilers don't play well together without a buffer tank (or equivalent). UFH and radiators have different temperature requirements. Switching between low and high occupancy is adding complication (if you are happy for that). The traditional way to resolve this, UFH, Rads and DHW would be a TS, Low tappings for UFH, rads of higher tappings and the ability to charge different amounts depending on DHW demand, this would be supplied by a system boiler not a combi but you can probably set the combi as a system boiler. You can do the same with a SunAmp UniQ as a TS, to provide the variable capacity you could separate it into two units, a UniQ 6 will support a single bath/shower a UniQ 9 one bath & up to 2 showers (SunAmp figures) so in theory you could use two UniQ6's just charge and use one normally and when you have guests use both (have to work out the details) (or a 6 and an additional 3). UFH control is done at the manifold (you have to have one), each zone thermostat will open/close respective loops at the manifold, the TMV at the manifold will blend the water to the desired temperature but you still want only warm (45C max preferably less) at the manifold TMV. Upstairs Rads/Towel rails I would run off a second manifold, again each room stat opening/closing the respective manifold valve. CAll for heat will depend on the overall system setup, with a combi it is the thermostat that signals the boiler (one for the whole system usually) with a TS/SunAmp teh TS/SunAmp calls for heat from the boiler when it requires it. If you holiday let the house I would want to make it as simple as possible and limit the tenants ability to 'bugger up the system'. I wait for the professionals corrections to my thoughts.

\ Remember this need to be '30 minute Fire Rated' if it is attached to the house and you need a level change between the house /garage or a slope out of the garage door (fuel spill run away)

When you submit planning application do not have any dimension on it other than GIA. Ours was over twice the volume of the old one, however as they did not have the volume of the old house, it was a moot point. We basically used the original footprint, filled in some of the odd shapes with a bot of extra and went up to 2 floors.You can see from the site plan on my blog. Only discussion was with the planning assistant who 'didn't like it' this was quashed by an e-mail from my architect to her boss.

I have Internorm windows, the largest is 2400mm wide and 1800mm high split into two pains, so a single 1200mm wide 1800mm high pain. This is quadruple glazed, triple glazed windoe with inbuilt blinds an a fourth pain outside the blinds. these are alu clad uPVC.