CC45

home made here as well.

This is what we've got. seems to work fine.

Thanks chaps. Finally got it to work. Since lights are 60deg I used the 30-60-90 triangle (thanks @Ferdinand) to work out the spread of light made by each led on the floor. I'd long forgotten all this stuff. Works a treat - I can now work out lux from lumens and see how bright the office & utility lights will be. Off to tart up the spreadsheet.

Hi all, I've wired upstairs bathrooms (3) with Enlite E5 led lamps - all good except possibly the main bathroom which is on the bright side (dimmer switch will sort that out). I have 3 rooms downstairs to do now - kitchen, office & utility. I am keen to inject a bit more science into the calcs here. So I know the lumens & angle of the Enlite E5's and room / desk / worktop heights but what I can't seem to get sorted is how big the splay is on the floor / desk / worktop. I know its a cone of light of various depths (floor / desk / worktop) - does anyone know what the formula for this is? I've found one or two sites that work out the splay but they use their led's and I'd like to get it onto a spreadsheet so I can look at various manufacturers alternative bulbs. Thanks for any light you can shed on the required calculations. CC

I've done the same as @ProDave. Good use for all those little bits of wood lying around.

I think the overlap needs to be closer to 20mm or when it all dries out you will be looking at each other through the gaps. Get some quality feather edge - go and look at some in timber outlets. I'd use concrete posts & gravel boards - you won't need to go near them again. 3x2 treated timber horizontally. Good galv nails unless you want to see rust streaks down the wood. If you use timber posts & GB then accept the fact that you will replace them < 10yrs unless you find an outlet that sells proper creosote ones (still available) & use a post saver at the base of the posts - it does help. It all gets expensive quickly.

good observation - an accurate one I suspect.

In addition to the nails, I used two substantial screws as well. They noticeably pulled the timbers together more than just the nails & certainly did reduce flex. I'd prob put then in - why now.

yep, looks good.

I (like many others) was too trusting of professionals. Never again. Shame isn't it.

Is it going to be noticed by anyone except you?

The frame company 'checked' the frame before they signed it off - if I'd got the experience I now have back then, things would be different. BC tend to rely a lot on the trades self certifying their own work.

Job for tomorrow that one. Wedges are a good idea. Good one.

just to make @recoveringacademic feel a bit better - see picture below. I've been sorting out these snags before I plaster board. I missed this one when the professional / full time / chippy put the frame up. Short cuts by others have cost me a lot of time. Next timber frame will be closely inspected as it goes up. Sad that the professionals don't get it right.

Will ring the card company and get some expensive tubes bought!

Hi @JSHarris, out of interest - why self amalgamating tape? Mine is in the attick so it just needs to be airtight. Thanks

Fire wood sorted for a while then!

I think its fill bath half full and then do your stuff. You can leave your clothes on.

I knew that would come up - its just a hell of a price really. I am hoping @JSHarris will have a good idea - he normally does....

Do you need it be equivalent to 200mm pir? Thats a lot of insulation.

Good point, still got some stuff left to do so 58 shoulnt be too hard. Got our ensuite done today, except for the units. Will order them with the kitchen. Time to get downstairs done now.

With the current rate of progress, unless there's an unexpected problem, this 'blog' might never reach 100 pages. Shame, I did have high hopes of a century......

Evening all, I've spent a few days pulling sat & cat 6 cables around the house - a few of which I've taken from the attic to under the stairs ready for the tv and I've also got the cable from the MVHR down to the controller - all of these cables go down some 22mm ducts. The next job is to seal these ducts - I don't want some open ducts letting me down on the airtest! I'm keen not to use anything that's going to attack the ducts or cables. My current plan is to use some normal silicone and fill the duct as full as I can and then use some of my left over Siga tape to seal as best I can the exit / entry. Any better suggestions?

I always try to see how the size of rad will look in the room. I increased the size of some of ours so they looked right. It is a very well insulated house so the rads were (and still are) on the small side anyway. If you are in any doubt then bring the pipes up in the centre of the rad and then go left and right - that way you can fit a bigger rad if you want to at a later date.

Just looked at the pics again - just gets better every time I look at it! Shame we dont have £1,850/m2 to spend on ours!