CC45

only another 18 pages to go before the century is reached - must be a worthy target?

https://www.ebay.co.uk/i/201688875007 Few other alternatives out there - see what your local builders merchant stocks

I thought it was all over and then you show us your dirty little secret!

That picture brings back memories from 2 years ago.... looks like a neat job. Have you left enough of the dpm to tape your airtight membrane onto? As @Onoff says make sure you pin the ufh pipes down well, our screeders wanted extra to protect against the pipe lifting.

I'd need a week to recover if I was to lay that much paving let alone a week to lay it all. Good luck

My grandparents lived on a farm with its own water supply. One very hot summer my uncle & I went to clean out the water tanks - all sorts in there - rat carcsses, frogs etc etc we were drinking this unfiltered! Still continued drinking it. We never seemed to get ill.

Had a good look at this today - to get rid of all the bends and have a straight fall will require ~ 6" x 8" of floor dug up - pain but not OTT. The boxing in will obviously be bigger. Planned to give this a bash on the weekend. Hopefully no ufh pipes where I need to dig.

I also put some of the foam on as well - its cheap & just an insurance policy. 25mm celotex as well. 19/12/15 I paid £37.89 for 8x4 x 150mm celotex sheets, I've still got 6 lurking in the garage how much are they now? Have I made a profit by hoarding??

Not sure - I will check it out tomorrow - it would certainly reduce the noise especially if the 1st one was 15deg........ Would rather not spend a day carefully digging up the floor!

Underneath the floor its a proper rest bend but above this there are two 45deg bends to bring the soil pipe up close to a corner - this is the problem since these bends are above the B&B floor and its not far for the sound to transmit through. Going to very gently dig up the floor (got ufh pipes in that area) - its not a big area (prob 8" x 10") - hopefully I won't damage a pipe & if one is in the way I can ease it to one side. Worst case scenario is I will have to put a joint in. Hopefully it will all be OK. Lesson learnt. Experience gained.

spot on.

Having spent a few hours on this today, I'm not convinced there is an easy solution. The problem is the initial bend is only just below the surface of the floor and when the water hits this it generates the noise. I've added another layer of PB - reduced but not by a lot. I suspect I need to dig a small area of the floor up and try and drop this bend to below the floor - possible to do but a real pain. This may be a case of getting my big boy pants on and just doing it. Thanks for the advice - if I do drop the height then I will look to add these on subsequently.

Hi all, Today I got the bath plumbed in - all good except when I let the water out, no leaks but the water makes a fair bit of noise when it drops down the 110mm pipe to the ground floor. The worst of it is where it just goes below the ground floor, the shallow bend in the pipe aint very far below floor level & its when the water hits it there that really generates some noise. I have enclose the pipe in RWA45 acoustic slabs & its boxed in using 15mm PB but its pretty noisy through the 6"x6" inspection / rodding hatch. I will add another layer of 15mm PB but was thinking about whether some sound deadening foam sheets would also help - has anyone used them? Any thoughts? My idea was to wrap it around the 110mm pipe as well as put some on the inside of the hatch. Any other suggestions? Cheers https://www.amazon.co.uk/Sound-insulation-Damping-deadening-Alubutyl/dp/B005JRZPMM/ref=asc_df_B005JRZPMM/?tag=googshopuk-21&linkCode=df0&hvadid=309952060520&hvpos=1o5&hvnetw=g&hvrand=13959877016630121023&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9045438&hvtargid=pla-429189207337&psc=1

can the shower go where the toilet is? bath could then go in the shower location....

some fittings may need deeper back boxes - maybe 47mm - individual room stats are pretty deep, I put in 47mm boxes for an easy life - they must be tight with 35mm back boxes. Sensible to check.

Angle iron?

worth speaking to tech depts - rockwool was v helpful when I asked. Advice for a 90mm stud wall was 50mm of RWA45 - not touching either side wall & then soundbloc board or 15mm normal PB. More layers of PB if necessary.

height between 450mm above floor to the bottom of the box & 1200mm to the top of the upper box. I don't put them any closer than 150mm from corners. Decent size noggins so you have some wiggle room; screw inplace. 47mm back boxes - easy wiring guaranteed. Leave the box out slightly from the timber frame etc so when boarded it sits back slightly from the boards. They take some time to do for a whole house......

that single lass has got some bottle. Its a lot to take on when you're on your own - I often come home at the end of an evenings graft / whole days graft and its good that the missus is here - cheers me up, who did she rely on for some emotional help? Hats off to her.

fair play to them - gives me hope that I will be able to manage a second self build before I die.

I was surprised they were that cheap. Don't think the 3 on there pre adverts will be getting pregnant...

so did you cut a hole in the floor to allow some space for this? I would have to do this - the clearance between the bath and floor isn't that much.

are you thinking of the 150mm above ground level to dpc? I wouldn't take the cladding any closer to the ground than this.

@ProDave has got it - sorry Nick et al. No ceiling on below the bath yet so it could all be done from below but would like to maintain top access - if it goes wrong it could be accessed from the floor - lift and disconnect the bath & its surround + bit of buggeration = jobs done. Task for the weekend. Thanks all. Its helped me crystallise the task.

OK @Onoff got ya now - not too sure anyone will be wanting to look under the bath to see a shiny piece of pipe - it worked on your basin (now I've twigged) but that's visible. Shows you care - top marks champion.