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If your half landing at the bottom is buttressing the upper set of treads / stringers against horizontal movement then you actually can show you need minimal fixings at the top. Think about a ladder against a wall with someone holding the bottom still. The load at the top of the stringer is horizontal only (as the top of the ladder can slip down the wall) which in your case is pushing against something solid. If you are confident your half landing can resist the horizontal loads then your problem is solved! All you need is a few fixings at the top of the stringer to stop the stair moving left or right in the plane of the top landing. Does this work?

I had problems getting my Airbnb cabin insured but then went to my local NFU who I already have my house and car insurance with and they were very helpful, definitely more expensive than others but at least it’s done.

I fitter the Juliet balcony yesterday afternoon We didn’t think glass would be in keeping with the rural setting So I asked a friend to make one up out of steel The only problem was the weight I had to borrow a digger to lift it up there As four of us couldn’t lift it in place

Not a lot, probably less than the door / window handles and the letter box on the front door. Forget it and move on.

Here is a nice video showing and describing it very well. The towel rads could be run from the header next to the Esbe mixers.

Is that what you really meant to say as it reads somewhat like the old which is heavier a kg of bricks or a kg of feathers josh🤔.

Yes. but inset it before completing the internal wall, and cap it as well, and its minimal. It's just that I've come across some very poorly fitted resin bolts in concrete, and brick is weaker (dust/ too smooth a surface/ too thick resin/ not deep enough /not mixed.properly/ glue absent due to pushing the bolt and not turning it.). 1. 24mm foundation bolts pulled out upon tightening the nuts. 2. a hoist fell over with a lorry on it.......neither installed by me or any of our people! Managing our own works I've found all the other issues in good time. BUT I do favour resin anchors IF properly supervised.

Viesmann design recommends mixed circuits with a divicon / esbe mixing valve Viesmann sell these divicons but they are prohibitively expensive. compared to just using an esbe valve and pump https://viessmanndirect.co.uk/Catalogue/Divicons-and-Mixers/Divicon/Divicon-with-Mixer-Extension I would never live in a house with UFH that's not controlled by an electronic mixing valve😃 my esbe works very well

Is that temporary? Are you later going to fit a proper balcony that you can sit out on? (I highly recommend that)

I’ve used a wavin hepvo one before, I think at the time it was one of the only ones that was available, good quality and didn’t have any issues

So no doubt about it, SWA glanded into consumer units at each end, and final circuits wired from garden room CU as normal. No need to bodge direct connections from SWA to flat.

Yes we fitted one (the largest size SK06 114x118cm) in our build just before Christmas and I think its great, although I'm no expert on velux windows. It was heavy, perhaps because of the extra (5 in total) panes of glass. These windows need the additional (BDX I think) fitting kit so the size of the opening needs to be increased by about 10mm but check with Velux for the exact size. We didn't fit the Velux airtight collar, we just taped intello plus to the frame and that seems to be ok.

motorised! why would you want to do stuff manually?

You can search out a s trap toilet if you want, but you generally you use a p trap and use a pan connection that goes vertically down into your soil pipe.

A variation on #3 is they may charge you an additional fee to put right any issues in the CU install before notifying it. That'd be my favoured answer as then you know the work is safe and up to standard and you have the certs and BC notification you need.

Don't worry, we're talking about something different. However, the 4 pipe system isn't really designed to have towels radiators on the high temperature hot water circuit and if they were, they would only get heated when the boiler is reheating your hot water cylinder. If you want the freedom to heat the towel radiators at any time, they would need to be on the normal central heating circuit. Th ideal situation depends on the customer's specific needs, not a generic one size fits all solution. What stops you from implementing this is: 1. you both want and need zoning for comfort and due to solar gain. This requires a buffer in your system to reduce short-cycling risks due to the microzoning you have throughout your house. 2. you want a towel radiator circuit with some extra warmth. This would be fed either directly from the boiler, or a pre-heated buffer tank. I'm sorry, but what are you talking about? Delta T 20 is a standard design figure for hydronic systems and it is usually specified by boiler manufacturers although Viessmann has reduced it to 15 degrees, but other high efficiency boilers, like the Ideal vogue Max spec Delta T 20. You comment about Delta T 20 being old hat for high temp boilers is misconceived and certainly not supported by current industry design guidelines. But to get back to the actual issue that arose out of my questions about the installed system and suggested modification. The design of the system however is about how to get enough heat to the right parts of the house at the right time, so it's about moving energy in a way that works for the occupant. In this sense, it is about finding a balance between function and efficiency, not merely optimising efficiency and using arbitrary figures that don't give any indication that they'll work for the required heat load of the house over the heating season. Simply running a system for longer will not sufficiently heat a home if it doesn't supply enough heat energy into the space. Your solution may not do so unless there are high flow rates through the system which may potentially add unecessary resistance and noise to the system - but at the end of the day, neither you nor I know that as the flow rates need to be calculated based on the installed system. This is one of the reasons I'm trying to suggest weather compensation and load compensation because they'll dynamically adapt to the heating loads of the building by increasing flow temperature where necessary while maintaining lower flow rates. It's also one of the reasons that against the consensus on here I supported keeping the zoning in place because @Adsibob has said the heating system works well for their comfort. And that's where the suggestion of a buffer originally came from. As is so often the case, the pipework arrangement and set temperatures has become the distraction whereas the original issue highlighted was control of the system in a way that is consistent with the ops needs, original intent, and the balance of comfort and efficiency. Fundamentally the problem resides with the original system design because the installer has followed the herd by installing UFH when actual real world use and the nature of the house actually indicate that a low thermal mass/inertia system with generous buffer would have been the way to go which may have run at a higher flow and/or mean water temperature, but would have been more efficient overall due to the context.

I’m using heatmiser stats, Ufh I have it 0.5c as it take a while for the floor to charge up again. Upstairs rads 0.5c as my flow temperature is normally around 36-37c but if you have a high flow I would have it as 1c. My stats are really a temperature limiter, as my weather compensation is the lowest for my comfort level. With the neogen you can enable enhanced history and keep a tab on temperature levels

So he plans on laying circa two slabs an hour.......🤣

Ok so I tackled this today - wasn't quite as straightforward as I'd hoped!! Ended up using a chisel to prise out the beads in the gap between bead and frame - get it in and bend it slowly then wedge in the scraper above. Had to be patient and do it a few times before it was bent slightly out of shape, and then I could pull it off. Rinse repeat for the other 3. Trying to remove the rubber and then wedge the scraper in between glass and bead ended up cracking the glass and the bead wasn't moving at all! Anyway, new frame in now, had to shave a bit off it to cram it in, a few screws and then the total pita of getting the inside strips in to hold the glass!! Will seal tomorrow. Thanks to all for the advice, extremely helpful!

Yes but Target Room Temp (Auto Adaptive) mode uses the WC curve as a baseline then overlays other forms of control - mainly varying the flow temp according to the difference between actual and target room temp, such that as target room temp is approached the flow temp is modulated until an equilibrium is achieved, allowing the longest possible heat pump runs. When you first start using Auto mode it takes a few days to "learn" how your room temp responds to flow temps, but eventually settles down to a steady state.

Bitte viele Fotos....... Willkommen

Hi Catherine and welcome. Can you post some photos please, internally and externally, wide angle showing the roof and close details of the cracking too. Do you have any photos of the house under construction? Unfortunately some continental building methods have been applied in Ireland without due regard for the massive volume of rain we get and it has caused issues but there's plenty of knowledge on here to help.

Welcome. Your house is Definitely not built from mica blocks??? Render will be easy enough fixed. Old plaster giving issues will be removed and new plaster with waterproof additives can be used to seal it.

Please explain why you don't want to leave the hot water on all day letting the thermostat top it up when needed. Not wanting to do that is forcing you to devise a complicated strategy to measure when an unusual amount of heat has been extracted from the cylinder when the tank thermostat will do just that, if the heating were on to allow it.

Maybe that’s why it was without issue 😂

No issue for @Pocster as he won’t even be finished before the 50yr warranty expires.