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If I had to bet I would say the one on the right was English not Siberian. I have just given MillWorks a small fortune for cedar and it is absolutely spot on clear, not a knot in it anywhere. I did have samples of larch of them. It really is down to the look you are after, my neighbour has just done a huge barn in English grown Douglas fir and it looks very good are you after rustic or modern, treated or going to let it grey.

In this sector, that is both true and very sad.

also look how the grain runs in both bits --second one looks like fast grown pine-- crap

@Roz The one on the left is much closer grain and should therefore be better.

I do not know if it applicable to this use , but but when our workshop was laid we specified one that was good enough for tracked diggers to move on - after it was laid and still softthere was a couple of men on the concrete "flymo,s " driving about for half a day and chucking in,what looked like of tree resin granules+polishing them in that was done 30=years ago it is bullet proof --does not absorb oil split from normal garage use etc -is not affected by battery acid or brake fluid there was never any sign of dust from it just a very nice semi glossy finish can,t remember what the stuff was called --but an addition of that to mix ,if possible will give a very closed surface to the concrete over the years we have dug up bits for various reasons and when repaired the new concrete is terrible in comparsion --the original looks more like stone than concrete

Quick fag packet and I think you will struggle with that. The one you want to put in place from the animation I reckon will end up as a 457x152, and at around 64kg/m that is a half tonne steel. It will also protrude significantly into the room below as your new flat roof will preclude lifting it upward. The remaining steels will be a mix of 356 or 406 depth, again making it all very deep and very heavy to maneuver - there is about 5 tonnes of steel in that design. I would consider a pillar / column inserted where the 4 steels come together - it will reduce the sizes substantially and also make it comparatively easier to manage the insertions. .

@Joth - it's a Daikin Altherma low temp split EHBH08CB3V indoors and ERLQ006CV3 outdoors It needs to be EHBX for heating /cooling

You can also avoid building regs by making the building comply with the legal definition of a caravan (which does not mean it has to be on wheels, just be able to be moved) and that can be up to 100 square metres.

Much slower grown, so as Peter said, should be much stronger, and much better. The one on the right is quick grown, much lighter, and looks by comparison, SH*"E. You get what you pay for.

In the end we bought our Western Red Cedar from the local timber yard and had it machined to our own profile. We had 4.8m lengths, no. 2 clear and better only, lovely stuff.

Just like with most other things, stay far away from English ?

Hi Joth, I will PM you as dont know what the rules are! I have quotes from other companies too

When I was researching cedar cladding for our house I found specification documents which showed a reasonably clear way of grading the timber. I guess the same doesn't exist for larch. Guide to Western Red Cedar.pdf

I'll go and take a photo of my stacks and get back to you .....?

I will admit to having big misgivings on modern cladding unless you going to go for very expensive think thats why so many are done in the one up one down format --so they over lap and big shrinkage or growth with damp will not look bad which with T+G it can do when its starts moving about . If i go cladding in my build it will be man made boards -for that reason its everyones own choice . and the appearance you wanting my experience has not been good with modern cladding on other jobs and I do not like yearly retreating -- but thats just me

The price different isn't actually that huge as there's an offer on on the left hand stuff, but it's not the exact profile I wanted. But would rather it be decent stuff and worth the money!

How about: To approach the discussion with the builder, armed with a note pad and a pot of hippy tea, ask ' what are my options for the trench?' ' Can you draw it so I understand how it will work and what the pros and cons are?'

I looked into this for our last house, but eventually went for stainless. Whilst investigating I found this: https://www.ebay.co.uk/p/Concrete-Countertops-Design-Forms-and-Finishes-for-the-New-Kitchen-and-Bathroom-by-Fu-Tung-Cheng/91407949?iid=163927455314&chn=ps&norover=1&mkevt=1&mkrid=710-134428-41853-0&mkcid=2&itemid=163927455314&targetid=520884118079&device=c&mktype=pla&googleloc=1006983&poi=&campaignid=6744139833&mkgroupid=78343140446&rlsatarget=pla-520884118079&abcId=1139126&merchantid=137612025&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI2I3PloHn5QIVAuDtCh3LTQ8GEAQYAiABEgJQAvD_BwE it looked like it would give you all you need to do it & would be worth £5 to learn more!

I'm hoping to pour mine on the weekend so I can let you know in a year or two..

I got mine from ebay. Gumtree is another place to keep an eye on. You really want to find one fairly local otherwise transport costs to get it delivered can soon rack up.

Thanks. I should add that his set up is more like in the photo below where the white line is the wall with the stub of the existing waste projecting: He's a bit of an, "everything's against me / I've had a Hell of a time / I've had to buy more bits" panicker tbh. I'm about to give him these bits as they're already cut and ready to go. OK to go with this rather than x2 45s?

Plinth heater Wet and electric are available, but the wet version should work ok even at the lower flow temps. Example only Yes, as they will heat up at different times to each other. Tha can result in an UFH circuit running a lot on its own resulting in short-cycling. Would ideally need a decent ( 100L + ) buffer tank to feed everything from in order to hydraulically separate the two mediums.

Just done one exactly like that. No probs at all with that arrangement ?

and here is a some man porn (sorry ladies, but well, its big and makes a loud noise) drilling.MOV