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Based on that design you need to get a different person to design your drainage scheme. Drainages fields for treatment plants and soakaways for rainwater are two completely different things so solve different problems. Unfortunately the terms are generally intermixed though which confused me at the start until I understood it all a better. https://www.wte-ltd.co.uk/soakaways If you need any more info to sway you away from a biodisc to an aerobic system then visit the NSBRC in Swindon. They have a cut away of a biodisc and as soon as I saw it I thought what if that fails and you need to get in there to fix it. No thanks. Plus Klargester is part of Kingspan and I wouldn’t give them £1 of my money. There are a few common treatment plants used on here which are typically Vortex, Marsh or Graf One2Clean. We have a Graf system with a remote blower unit. It also has a built in sampling chamber.

If the hole is too large or small the screw can seize up or not tighten. Also if you need to remove and reinsert the screw it does not behave as well as first time.

One aspect of the Passive House PHPP I paid close attention to was overheating risks. As a result we looked at shading and extended the downstairs porch to shade the downstairs bedroom window. The upstairs we though about using Brise Soleil and have 3 canopies over the 3 main windows. I've been working on this for about 8 months with more than half on design and structural engineering and manufacture taking place in June. Then I spent most of July / August trying to get them to fit before bring back the bricklayer to finish some work and the day before scaffolding being taken down, finding I couldn't get the blades to fit....!! So the idea was get briese soleil drawings and have my timber frame SE come up with a plan to support them. This involved extra vertical posts either side of the windows and a big metal "caison" as I call it bolted 360 degrees into the timber structure. I got the timber frame lads to do this bit for me as it was a 2 man job and I'm a solo worker. Then it was over to me to fit the arms. There are two arms per shade with 5 x blades between them. Each arm has a baseplate, a thermal break plate and is bolted through the timber frame and caison and meets another metal plate and then washers and nuts are attached and the whole thing fits together. There were a number of issues, the first was the hole centers for the mild steel caison didn't line up with any of the the powered coating aluminium brise soleil components. Well, Aluminium is an easier material to work with so I used a step drill to enlarge the holes in everything but the mild steel. 1 Arm fitted, then the other. Next a dry fit with with the inner and outer solar sail in place so we can see how we are doing and nope, wouldn't fit! I ended up having to go at the mild steel too but it was much tougher going and I probably only ended up hardening it. Eventually I got the six arms fitted and knocked out the sails so that the brick layer could finish the final course. Last weekend I left re fitting the sails until Sunday, and the scaffolding was off hire on Monday. Not chancing my luck I went at it and found the arms for the longest blades (1.8 meters apart) 30mm too close. It was too far to wedge my body in the gap so how do I solve this. I know it was tight but thought I'd finagle it somehow!?! In the end I figured out how to use a car jack to create the space I needed and managed to get all 5 blades installed this way on all arms but it was a close thing loosing light towards the end. The rooms do look darker but I'm hoping the scaffolding coming down will offset this a bit. Of all the house projects so far, this one was my hardest! Advice: never give up, never surrender, unless it's tea time!

10mm each way is often used. I prefer 15mm to make sure there's enough space to get a foam gun nozzle in.

generally 10mm smaller than opening = in both the x & y planes. That way should the opening be not quite square there should be sufficient leeway to fit the window in with packing where necessary.

It might be worth taking a look at Icelandic heating sites where hot spring heating is common, as is pumping the hot spring water straight to the tap. When I went there for a holiday last year I got used to the smell of sulphur when I ran hot water. Actually rather nice once you get over the shock.

No If you are doing 14 l/min and the limit is close to 32 l/min, you have no issues. m/S is velocity l/min is a volume flow - so very different units.

Jeepers no. Something like this https://www.screwfix.com/p/easydrive-tx-countersunk-concrete-screws-7-5mm-x-120mm-100-pack/9008h?ref=SFAppShare Obviously you don't need 100... Might get cheaper options.

Cheaper here: £54. Probably shipping and tax on top. Same product though as far as I can tell. https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005006216842254.html?spm=a2g0o.productlist.main.49.706fa3Spa3SpBs&algo_pvid=99a4c398-362c-4cad-8d1b-eba9e5600680&algo_exp_id=99a4c398-362c-4cad-8d1b-eba9e5600680-24&pdp_npi=4%40dis!GBP!106.78!53.39!!!135.75!67.88!%40210387dd17260731937254697eddc0!12000036322462749!sea!UK!889673203!X&curPageLogUid=KRqsJZNZNPs7&utparam-url=scene%3Asearch|query_from%3A There's a lot of UK companies reselling stuff that we can get direct from AliExpress. I guess they offer a degree of quality assurance and convenience but sometimes the mark-up is fierce.

I have just had this recommended to me. Just C02, temp and humidity, not particulates. A bit pricey at €169 euros. https://aranet.com/en/pro/products/aranet4-home I believe it integrates with Home Assistant. They have a separate PM sensor. I probably don’t need it, I would use it for C02. But do find these kind of measurements interesting.

I had one BCO try to get me to change an RSJ after I fitted it, I had full plans, I told him my SE was more qualified than him and I would be contacting his boss if he did not pass it, it stayed and I am not on his Christmas card list now 🤣.

We did full plans. When the BCO queried something I had done on the build he looked back at the plans and said well it has been accepted so it's OK. No arguement.

Hot wire is only good for polystyrene, not pir / pur.

This discussion also took place a few days ago. My summary was: If you know exactly what you are doing, the building is conventional, and you accept risk. Building Notice, and you can start more quickly. Otherwise, Full Plans.

Apologies and I think you are right! Class A covers rendering, cladding, etc… to the existing walls but re-roofing would appear to come under Class C. The OP would however require Building Regulations.

Read up on Buildhub, not the best reputation. I really would do a heat pump cylinder 3m² coil or bigger. CoP of 3.5 should be a regular. Pre plumbed is a waste of money. Do it your self, get a Panasonic monobloc. Slimline cylinder. No need to solder, use either Hep2O barrier pipe or copper or a mix. Use Tectite push fit fittings for the copper and Hep2O for plastic and copper to plastic. Do all as a single zone, no buffer needed. So heat pump to diverter valve. Diverter to top of cylinder or heating system, the two returns tee together back to heat pump. Power to heat pump wiring between ASHP and controller.

or add extrs smaller joists joists in some places to make sheets work or run sheets other way with bits nailed in between joist for edge support a bit of thinking at start should cut down amount of extra PB edge supports needed like maybe cutting some boards into stripes to get you back on the joists eg cut first to 36" then then an 18" strip to get 54" then same again lots of ways just a bit of buggering about on paper to see which is best way

Would this not fall under Class C - Any other alteration to the roof of a dwellinghouse? Under this class there is no requirement to use similar materials and there is no restriction to being in a conservation area.

Then it’s not Portland limestone, it’s Egyptian 🤷‍♂️ slate from Spain is Spanish even though it’s looks like Welsh.

Some on here have used Norrsken they are in Poole. They have been very good with me and my numerous phone calls. We have only just started the build but been in touch with them 2 years.

I did it all myself. It’s not that hard to do. On the lights. I did visit two lighting designers and posted on here. The first one wanted £34,000 to design the lighting layout, provide SOME of the lights, and some of the switching hardware. I nearly fell off my chair. I got them to do a lighting design which was really poor. They have subsequently gone bust. We then visited someone that is a one woman band self-taught lighting designer. She had some really good ideas and my wife wanted to go with her but she charged £5000 just for a design and I really struggled to see where the money in that was. However we had learnt enough to have a reasonable stab at doing it ourselves and are really happy with the outcome and especially with some of the lights we chose.

I had never heard of them until they kept getting mentioned on here. Wife and decided where we wanted light switches and lights, I marked on a plan, electric contractor quoted and installed. If you are using a plumber, mark on drawing where the cylinder and heat pump goes, put UFH manifold in same location. UFH install at 100mm centres in bathrooms, 150 to 200mm elsewhere. Operate single zone. If you want cooling consider installing fan coils in bedrooms, plumber will sort out pipe size and routes. M&E Consultant will tell you less than above and charge you £10k for it.

The quarry dig stuff out the ground, they wash it and sell it to builders merchants as sand, gravel, ballast the chances are they have a bagging plant which bags it to sell to wickes and places like that, a good chance they will have a concrete plant either at the quarry or set up a short distance away. they are making double the money if they don’t actually buy in the raw materials, but it comes from their own hole in the ground. if you do a list of 30m ready mix for footings 20m of ready mix for floor slab 40 tonne of type one under floor 20 tonne of screed 10 tonne of bricklaying sand blah blah blah you will get a better price than just being some Joe who just wants some concrete. have a drive about and do some networking. .

@phykell What’s wrong in submitting a Householder application? That’ll be a lot quicker than going through the Appeal process.

I'm trying to keep it simple because I am!!!