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Dig around just a little bit in this site and you will find the same story repeated many times. Planners - and especially Inspectors - know the score. Unless an objection is Material (to the application), it will be ignored.

You really need a proper design, depending on actual drop and wind load and infill type, will change things dramatically. Because you are trying to do a job a structural engineer needs to complete.

You need to bring the 110mm pipe up to the floor level with a 90⁰ long sweep rest bend. I section chamber on the outside where it connects to the main runn for rodding, rather than a rodding point on the inside.

Isle of Lewis 🤷‍♂️I would want straps/cables holding the whole thing down, roof on, perhaps ground screws? https://tgsupplies.co.uk/product/heavy-duty-ground-screw-pergola-ground-anchor-gazebo-tent-metal-pegs/?utm_source or similar.with cables over the building.

Hi all We are undertaking a barn conversion in Buckinghamshire. The barn is in terrible condition that we are going to remove 95% of the timber cladding and roof and rebuild it using clay hanging tiles. We are trying to make it as sustainable as possible and solar panels, heat pumps and also we plan on collecting the water from the gutters to use for flushing the toilets. Having worked in the construction industry for 25 years I am looking forward to getting on site and doing some actual construction work myself

I still had internal traps and the external one makes a good grease trap.

I spent 25 years in sector ending my career as sales director of the largest manufacturer in the UK so I can probably answer this quite well. 99% of the production in the UK comes from 4 manufacturers Forterra, MBH, Ibstock and Wienerberger they sell direct to the major house builders and the rest is sold via factors and merchants. The pricing is done on a site address hence why they want a site address as if they register the project they get a higher discount. With factories in Europe they all have distributors in the UK who they sell exclusively to, be it some of there range or all of it. These importers will also sell to factors and merchants. Therefore the majority of bricks you get shown from merchants and factors will come from the same few suppliers. If you contact factories in Europe directly they will often just forward this on to their agents in the UK but at least you will speak to the importer directly. Depending on who they are they may sell direct or sell via a local merchant who they have a rebate agreement with. When it comes to discount unless you are ordering 30000 bricks plus it’s unlikely to get a discount from the major factories as simply they don’t need too for smaller orders so any discount offered will be based on the merchant and factors rebate scheme with the manufacturer. Merchants will discount anything that they have on stock to simply shift it out the yard, especially in the current market however very few, if any, merchants will stock linear bricks

Thanks Jilly. Yes, Permitted Development - I think the process/forms I'd need for a rear extension over 4m deep on a detached house is "Prior Approval" within PD. But if anyone can confirm, or point me to another route to explore, that would be appreciated.

^ back entry gully trap for the win.

I wouldnt put wood into the ground unless it's oak. Pressure treated softwood is barely OK but never use a strimmer near it. It cuts the pressure treated layer. I found out the hard way. Our house has some external oak posts, typically holding up roof overhangs. We dug pad foundations filled to just below ground level, then brick piers (1.5 * 1.5 bricks, 4 courses high with the top course being 45 degree plinth bricks). The hole in the middle was filled with concrete with a Stainless Steel pin sticking out the top. Then a square of lead was put on top, dressed about 1" down the slope. Then the post drilled with a hole to take the pin. You could also buy or cast your own concrete block pier to get the wood out of the ground... https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/275700203774?chn=ps&_ul=GB&var=577119817626&_trkparms=ispr%3D1&amdata=enc%3A1l_9kbZx_TFyjSM9PSQnmNw71&norover=1&mkevt=1&mkrid=710-134428-41853-0&mkcid=2&mkscid=101&itemid=577119817626_275700203774&targetid=1647205089000&device=c&mktype=pla&googleloc=1006886&poi=1006818&campaignid=21194089662&mkgroupid=162053931300&rlsatarget=pla-1647205089000&abcId=9406426&merchantid=6995734&gad_source=1&gclid=CjwKCAjwyJqzBhBaEiwAWDRJVIW55VLnv0qmo2qIlY1t4Av1Unz35lGaM2bEf3tGRdE1ezBMKB1ZZRoCV-EQAvD_BwE

Or like I did…(sorry about the CAD {crayon assisted drawing}.

I chased our appeal today, not really expecting a response, but got the following almost immediately - "An Inspector undertook an unaccompanied site visit on the 21 May and will be working towards finalising a decision in the coming weeks." so fingers crossed for something before the end of the month...

+1 We just brought 110mm up through the floor under the kitchen sink and used a rubber (?) adaptor down to 40 or 50mm. We have inspection chambers on all 110mm junctions outside. I think all other rooms such as the downstairs WC have 110mm stub stack with AAV.

@garrymartin @Indy Just to add - my two parallel appeals had final comments in March too (actually 19th). For anyone reading along - the current appeal stats are here: https://www.gov.uk/guidance/appeals-average-timescales-for-arranging-inquiries-and-hearings The stats are misleadingly quoted and refer to the Validation date to Decision date. My Submissions from Submission date to Validation date took 10 & 12 weeks and a neighbour's 15 weeks! So, the quoted timescales need 10-15 weeks added to them. There's clearly some stats management going on by the inspectorate using the validation delay to massage the data - which should be outlawed so that real stats are reported. A letter to our MPs when they all get back to work? The validation process was nonsense and I sent back some drawings with the 'missing items' noted in bold red text and some 'missing drawings' with just a page reference to the required drawings in the already submitted file. Hopefully there will be a number of pleased BH members soon...

Inside (mostly) trimmed. I managed to break the blade of the alligator saw on a joist hanger, and cut through the extension cable with the hedge trimmer, so a good day's work ^^. The confined space made it a fairly nasty job - ear defenders and face mask, at minimum. The wall with the circular window in it is starting to look a bit unfortunate; the bale above ends right at the corner of the opening. Will reevaluate once the wooden frame is fixed in place, as that might give it some support - worst case I have to fit a lintel in there somehow, I guess. The lean on the back wall's corner is also very visible now. Not much I can do about it given the lack of access to the other side though. Call it character.

Just found I can generate weekly, monthly and annual reports from the battery/inverter. This week has been cloud, rain and occasional sun, so not really the best for solar. But: House consumed, 124.69kWh of electricity Generated from PV, 125.31kWh PV self consumption is recorded as 92% (however with water heating closer to 100%) Exported (really went to hot water immersion diverter) 6.73kWh Imported around 6.5kWh Current cost for electric £3.70 plus standing charges (E7). On normal rate electricity £31 plus SC, if I had no battery or PV. So some cost savings, compares battery, PV and E7 to normal electric and no PV or battery. Oct 23 £30 (not on E7 otherwise savings of around £80) Nov 23 £40 (part month on E7) Dec 23 £50 Jan £60 Feb £80 Mar £120 Apr £125 May £110 June - Sept about £100 to £120 per month. So annual saving around £1000+ expected. Would expect around 10 year pay back based on cost to install. With no paid export.

As well as the above, panel in the space underneath the shed all around and tightly, so the wind can't get underneath it to try and lift it.

Yes you will need a trap to stop smells coming into the house, just pushing the WM waste hose into this is fine https://www.screwfix.com/p/floplast-washing-machine-trap-white-40mm/18640

I had to create a temp fence on my build about the same size for root protection, I used farmers fence posts and sheep fencing, council tried to get me to get an arborist survey done (more money) but i rang the councils own arborists, told him what I did and he agreed it was fine then told the council their own chap agreed. Job done.

I think it is unlikely the piers would pull out (although would have to run the calculation to be sure), but there is a lack of bracing in the walls and roof, and no holding down / restraint straps in the superstructure (roof, walls) down to the foundation. For 100mph gusts on a lightweight roof every rafter will want some sort of strap.

Hi @Olu Mechanical Ventilation with Heat Recovery Your ducting in your cold loft space will become ducting in your hot loft space in the summer months. I know! I have insulated my MVHR ducting to within an inch of its life to avoid this. Heat Recovery should be called Temperature Recovery It really means either supplying the fresh air at the outside air temperature or trying to maintain the inside air temperature: be it hotter or cooler than the outside air temperature. Good luck M

I think you can probably build the duck house as ancillary accommodation or a tool store, but the ducks may require PP.

Muddling my way through doing what needs doing at a property in Spain. According to my partner, if I own a hammer and a box of odd screws, all jobs should take no more than about 10 minutes to complete, require no planning or knowledge, and cost next to nothing. Bless her! So far, my crowning achievements have included: Replacing a bl#*@y heavy wall-mounted boiler and filter, and adding a couple of mains sockets. Lifting and refitting laminate flooring + loo to fix leak and nauseating damp smell. Fitting a ceiling fan with snazzy remote and light functions. Rewiring and refitting led lighting in a stairwell, so now it can even be switched on or off at the top or bottom of the stairs - whoooo, look at me! The odd bit of plastering on ceilings and walls. (Yes dear, I do have to wait for it to dry before the next step.) Dangling like a baboon along window security bars wielding a tube of sealant in spaces not designed for the bending of wrists or elbows let alone accommodating said tube. Replacing light fittings, fixing a leaky shower base, bla, bla, bla. All (so far) without things blowing up, losing appendages, or ending up like crispy chicken. May Darwin continue to look favourably upon my endeavours! Lawd only knows I need him to. I suppose I should also say Hi, so Hi!

steel frame? then clad it, if you want a timber look!

I found a guide from the USA which gives the 7ft rule for footings on a slope.

I’ll throw in some other options - green oak beam on ground screws?

Any opportunity to do some Planting in front of it?

Make a feature of it? It will be very difficult to blend perfectly even with the same bricks so don’t try to hide it. You could go with something completely different or decorative brick bonding. Simplest way is to set the new (similar) brickwork in reveal, set back the same as the existing door frame.

Surely they will need to move their car at some point in which case put your car there or something immovable. In first instance speak politely to the neighbour. If he’s being a di£k, send the neighbour a letter. An extremely polite and non threatening letter eg don’t say if you don’t move it I’ll call the police. You’ll need to specify a date of the works you can’t ask them not to park there in perpetuity. If you get no response whatsoever or a negative response, send another letter by recorded delivery so they cannot claim they didn’t get it. Again being polite and reasonable. But refer to previous letter and a copy of the pp. On the day of works ask them to move it, if they refuse: Regulation 103 of the Road Vehicles (Construction and Use) Regulations 1986 states that “no person in charge of a motor vehicle or trailer may cause or permit the vehicle or trailer to stand on a road so as to cause any unnecessary obstruction of the road”. Your workers inevitably will need to access part of the road outside your house to carry out lawful works per PP. at this point in light of his belligerent refusal to move his car, you could argue that he is in contravention of this regulation. If an attending police officer agrees, they may not, he/she has powers to have the car moved. Be aware not every cop knows every bit of every legislation verbatim so have a printout of this regulation. The police call handler almost certainly won’t know this either. Your case is stronger if you have evidence that the parking was deliberately obstructive, hence the letters plus for example photos of his car being parked there AFTER the letters being sent and prior to the day of works. Evidence of unnecessary obstruction is the key element. You’re asking for trouble if you move his car without some form of court order. He alleges you’ve moved and damaged his car. Calls police. Etc etc. In ANY neighbourly dispute it’s really important that you don’t do anything that inflames the situation & puts you in the category of being a di£k. Let the other person be that and you’re more likely to get more help from the authorities. In a lot of neighbourly disputes it’s hard for the police to identify the true victim because the initial victim takes action that inflames and extends the dispute. I should know, I’m a retired cop.

I don't think you need to pour anything. A stack of pavers or concrete block to a couple hundred mm above the ground. Maybe one in each corner and a couple on the long length. Then just set the timber base on top. If it's exposed you'll want some sort of tether sunk in to the ground.

Fill the side gaps with gravel.

No. That was the Olympian Helen Glover, a fair Penzance maid. I am about half a mile from her Golden Post Box at the moment.

With a keel and a mast?

Sorry, finger trouble - added the rest in an edit.

Welcome A watertight one.