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Tell the truss designers to design in a steel reinforcement plate. 222mm deep 750 long with a 110mm hole in them, glued and bolted both sides. He probably thinks you just just want to blast a big hole in his bottom cord, everything is doable as long as you then don’t nit pick his reinforcement design, by then saying the metal is too expensive. Do a sketch of your proposal and send send it over to them.

Cladding finished. Really happy with the end result. It’s not obvious from the pictures but there is a distinct colour difference between the end elevation and the front elevation. The end elevation has been up about two weeks and is already significantly less orange and lighter compared to the front. Really happy so far with how it’s weathering.

Thanks everyone, yes I'm coming around to the keep it simple view as well, definitely

You will get weeds between the pavers regardless of how they are laid. That's a promise.

yes it doesnt matter how many really within reason, the cold water from a running shower goes through the heat exchanger in the column and you can either send it back to the shower (if only 1 shower) or send it back to the tank which is what we are doing. For a single shower they do a unit that goes under the bath that may be easier to plumb.

I would keep it simple, one outdoor unit for the room xyz, the other outdoor unit for the balance of the house. You could split bedrooms and house, then run the different units at different times etc.

You would not want the complication of changeover valves in the refrigerant lines or the possibility of refrigerant being transferred from one circuit to the other. So I think you would need two separate coils in fancoil unit C, then pump B (which I assume is the more efficient one) could supply them both when demand is low. Don't know how you would control it. Commercial refrigeration specialist might know, having many units in tandem operation is fairly common, usually they are the same rating and are operated in a cyclic sequence to equalise usage (like the mulitpley redundant pumps in a water treatment plant for example).

We had three areas with vaulted ceilings. On the ground floor we had a sitting room with a split level ceiling half of which was vaulted. We also vaulted ceilings on the landing and in the main bedroom.

Also fill the tank with water as you go and concrete it in - you should roughly keep the levels the same as it stops stress in the sides. Depending on where it is installed - lawn or driveway - indicates whether you should cover with concrete or just gravel and topsoil.

Use a dry/lean mix to prevent flotation. There should be a be a guide in the instructions to tell you how much is needed. Don't want to get it wrong.

Do what the instructions say. The manufacturer knows the strength of the tank. A cable or strap will hold it down but could stress the tank and damage it. There used to be some tanks that said to strap it down. it isn't a secret. You could however strap it down while you pour the concrete. But use strap not a cable. Concrete choice? What do your instructions say?

Perhaps this can inspire anyone in the process of renovation/ transformation. This has taken 2 years from purchase, and the rest of the building is still a shell being fitted out. But, yes it's a liveable space, and the caravan is almost redundant.

Karndean looselay and longboard are @ 4.5mm thick and can be glued down albeit with their tackifier.

Don't just tick the box. This is radioactive gas that could build up in your house. It is necessary that the gas exits the vent rather than sit in the pipes. A continuous pipe with 2 vents will create a draught. Any outlet to air will allow pressure release, and the idea is for the pipe to be an easier route than any gap in the membrane. To keep the rain out there are hoods, or put on a 90° bend. But if a little rain gets in it might escape from a perforated pipe if used to collect gas.

I do use the adhesive fly traps and these are successful for small size flies but these don't catch the big ones or wasps. I have a garden with flowering hedges on both sides and on top of flies I would not want some bumblebees, bees or wasps coming in. I don't kill them but then I have to help them get out. They simply don't understand that window glass is an impenetrable barrier for them but they keep trying. I found the fly mesh to be very good to keep the flying insects outside however the cheap mesh on eBay is temporary, don't last more than one or two seasons tops.

None of these comments are being very helpful. He’s already decided he’s putting in Loxone home automation. You wanted HA but decided against it. This isn’t a question about whether to do it or not. It’s a question about how to control it once the decision has been made to install it. First thing to consider is to reduce the total number of switches. I had far too many to start with. You then buy the dearer switches where they are in visible circulating parts of the house. The cheaper touch switches in the other rooms where you want to control multiple devices but are less used. Retractive switches elsewhere. The fact they are different matters less if they aren’t beside each other.

Free of charge in Shelly's cloud, if you're not recording it locally, from where you can also download it as a CSV file.

In @ToughButterCup case could you not run the pipe underground horizontally with a slight fall and vent it out further down the slope, that would let the heavier than air gas out.

So I believe you want Section 10 on Page 61 "Section 10: New elements in existing dwellings, including extensions". More specifically paragraphs 10.7 to 10.11. Subsequent paragraphs give alternative ways to comply if you have issues with the above. Table 4.2.. I'm not 100% sure how to interpret section 10.7 d(i) in your case. It looks like there will be three windows serving three rooms in the dormer. I would work out the percentage for each room individually. They must each be <25%. If not you have to do the more complicated calculations in the other parts of section 10. Paragraph 4.13 might also be helpful if you get stuck.

Like I say, these non conformances with current regs are only supposed to be a C3. Any electrician that tries to say otherwise is simply wrong. Thanks to @andyscotland for the link confirming it. I have that guidance note but could not remember where I downloaded it from. Agreed on the singles to the bell transformer but that is such a trivial matter I would just replace it with a bit of t&e without even mentioning it. If the electrician you spoke to says it will need a new CU even before he has looked at it, try a different electrician. Going forward, the issues you might face with that CU is it is long since obsolete, so if there were a problem, say that RCD does not work, your only hope of a replacement that would fit that board would be second hand. You can get rcbo's for those boards, but again hard to find and expensive I have one in my spares box.

Yes. I've looked in vain for the invoice - I'll have another go this afternoon when I get back .... I've gone through part of the 'outlet' list on the site website - and submitted my post code for Tyvek dealers locally - tells me to submit a valid post code (!) Using google maps history, I found this The red marker is the exact place, and that phone number might help you - fingers crossed Ian

Onto window sealing. It’s been my favourite task to do so far albeit I am very slow at it. Making up the corners is oddly satisfying.

I have a neater pile of bricks.

I remember trying to convince people that double glazing was worthwhile.