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That is only a little bigger than our kitchen / living room and we have a ceiling height of 2420mm That extra 20mm means you don't have to trim any of the plasterboard when sheeting the walls. This room feels perfectly normal to us. However I don't see a 3M ceiling would be too high either. We have one bedroom with a 3M ceiling and it does not look silly.

Wet sponge and a bucket of water to wash the joints clean. It should come off easy. Spot on with the spacers. And Capt BigBalls wanted to tile it all in one go .

FFS. You've GOT to be shitting me! On your timescale thats future time travel. As we say around here "honest to god". Cast your mind back to the kind words of one of our forefathers....... Thats not open to negotiation. Crack the fcuk on, stick to the plan, and nobody gets hurt Type here next with a pic of the wet area tiled. Dont make me come down there......?

Cladding now installed on the utility and porch. Unfortunately, the rest of the cladding will need to wait until the start of the block work starts in a month or so. I have also been busy nailing away and fixing what felt like a million truss clips.

Hi all, I don't know if any of you read Passive House Plus magazine, but I have found it a useful source of information and inspiration. They are Ireland based, but put out a UK version of the magazine. It is probably more geared at Architects and the like and so can be a bit technical, but I like to see which way the wind is blowing and learn about new ideas early, even if I don't always completely understand them! Anyway, they have just launched a new trade directory online which I thought might interest some. It has only just gone live, so hopefully will grow a bit in future. https://passivehouseplus.ie/directory?featured=0&geolocation=0&radius=100&resetSearch=1 If anyone is interested in seeing what the magazine has to offer without subscribing then they will send you two free copies if you give them your details: https://passivehouseplus.ie/enquiries

Grey = not cleaning every day White = "wtf did I ever think of white grout"

Lovely larch cladding - great to see the same corner detailing as to what is on our car port. Somewhat re-assuring that it is a good job well done.

Very nice Like the minimal corner detail?

This is a slightly exaggerated but amusing cautionary tale. https://www.telegraph.co.uk/news/earth/wildlife/9827052/Holy-bat-protection-Thats-cost-me-10000.html There was a wonderful comments thread on it which has vanished, F

We used EcoLED - the quality of the fittings is superb and far in excess of anything else we found. Speak to Guy and say Andrew Webster recommended him to you

Would you not be able to order some cheap glasses online using your own prescription that should in theory correct the astigmatism? With delivery you should be able to get them for less than £15 as long as you choose the included lenses that come as standard and you don't have a special or unusual prescription. https://www.selectspecs.com/cheap-glasses/ Below is the info from Selectspecs re the values that are important to enter. https://www.selectspecs.com/info/glasses-guide-buying-glasses-online/ CYL / Cylinder The CYL and AXIS compensate for an astigmatism. So what's an astigmatism? An astigmatism is where the eye is shaped slightly like a rugby ball or referred to as ‘toric’, not a perfect sphere like a football. This just means the eye has difficulty focusing at certain angles. This box maybe empty or have a plus or a minus value in it. The measurement is the Dioptre. Most values range from +/- 0.25 to +/- 4.00 and will go up in steps of 0.25. AXIS The AXIS is only present if there is a value in the CYL box, the AXIS tells us where the astigmatism is on your eye. The measurement is in Degrees. The values range between 0 and 180 and may go up in steps of ½, 1, 5 or 10 degrees, we only show the AXIS to a whole number but if you have a ½ degree on your prescription you can list this in the additional information box when ordering.

Looking sharp - love the windows, blends in well. Good job.

Hey @nod that's a tidy job, where did you find a sober plasterer in August. Buy that man a pint???and a lawnmower!

Yes, that is what I have done, though mine are pre UniQ units. I have a Panasonic 9kW Split.

Its pre a lot of things ? (life’s hard, and it shows now).

Ah Is your picture pre laser Joe ?

Factory shop if you have one, I considered that as one eye is a bit different from the other.

Yes double sarking is over kill, below board could be a membrane.Our orignally plan was all slate then changed to half slate half steel. I wasnt away to remove the sarking. You have got 2 routes for a DIY standing seam roof either to go to likes of tata and buy a pre formed complete kit which is pretty straight forward on a DIY effort but pretty expensive on £m2 cost for what it actually is but saves a lot with no labour or buy a rolls of metal and form it on site (which is what your hiland tray is) which is pretty skilled job but also DIY if you are very good hands on type of preson. The machinery for this is pretty expensive new cheapest form is £8k and electric closer is £3k. We are renting the form and bought a second hand electric closer on german ebay but this can also be rented. Plus you will need a few specialised hand tools approx another £1k. We have a local metal fabricator with a 4m electric folder which has been a major help for fascia boards, valleys etc. Tata offered a free day course on the standing seam which would be a good start, also there is a company who offers training on forming the metal yourself which is pretty expensive but is usually on a one to basis. If you go dow this route I would recommend doing the tata first, and treat is a intro. this is a good link for material https://www.roofing-tools.com/home.htm

Its a how long is a piece of string question, SO STOP ASKING AND START CHUFFING TILING ! OK, no more talk about climbing in and out of baths! You lay the shower area, get it all straight and true with a straight edge, then leave to cure, so your ready to then move to phase 2. Phase 2 is the main floor, from the wet area back to the wc jutty out wall. Then stop and leave to set so you can walk on it. Then you mix some more and lay the ones under the sink and the remainder of the main floor out to the door. DO NOT DEVIATE FROM THAT. With standard set you never have an fixed ( cured ) area ( of tiles ) that you can 'push back' against. so you cannot keep the spacers tight, and it all goes off squiff. Do the wet area first, concentrate SOLELY on that and leave to dry. Trying to lay the whole floor and wet area in one go is too much work, and on standard set I wouldn't even try it myself. Just making an easy job stressful imo. "Chill Winston"

You need to just start networking my story this month. Had a chat with a lad doing some gardening next door to me as my garden is suffering since I started our build he said he does a bit of fencing and landscaping so I had him for a day to sit on the dumper 3 weeks later he has agreed to work with me for 3 days a week for the next year has stayed at our place and looked after the dog when we went away ex army, tidy as can be, willing to do anything, never needs telling just gets on with it. If I hadn’t had a chat with the lad doing the gardening I wouldn’t have never found him put yourself about a bit, get to know the local odd job guy.

'Twill be a thing of beauty. ?

Only 368 times? Is that a lucky number? Or, perhaps, one that ensures the right balance between ying and yang, so ensuring that the bathroom has the right feng shui?

Have you got a local facebook page for your locale I find ours very useful ....or go down the pub.......or just chatting to anyone passing by. I have my school holiday helper (been great so far) because I got chatting to his Mum who walks their dog past our house every day. I mentioned I could do with a bit of casual unskilled help and by the end of the day I was fixed up with teenage son and it is exactly what I need. You could try the old fashioned card in the newsagents window or this site https://askyourneighbour.com/start.php

Have you not tanked the ceiling..?? Should really do the ceiling - and the back of the door ....

This thread is exactly why the world needs architects. Don't get me wrong, I want to kill architects as much as the next person, but the difference with me is that I also want to kill sparkies who can't be arsed to do a job in a slightly different way to normal, and I want to kill carpenters and plasterers who don't want to fit backboxes behind light fittings. (NB I don't really want to kill anyone, this is turn of phrase.) My point is that, without an architect specifying something like this, we'd all be at the whim of the sparky who says "nah mate, you don't want to fit those, they are bad quality" when what they really mean is "nah mate, I don't like working with those because if it breaks, then I'll get the blame, and it takes 3 times longer than a normal fitting to install". And of course the logical conclusion is that we'd all end up with typical products that we see in all British houses - nothing aspirational, just stuff that the sparky preferred to fit. This is a self-build forum, right? We do things that normal tradesmen wouldn't do, right? Like fitting things that take longer, because we want them in our own home. Plaster lights are gorgeous, this is not something to be sneered at. Yes, they are more expensive. They break more easily. They need more forward planning, etc. etc. Case in point yesterday I fitted some 2 inch PVC waste pipe by Aquaflow. Not particularly high quality, but my god it's solid as hell. An absolute nightmare to work with, setting out the pipework was ok but taking it apart to glue it needed strap wrenches, vices, hammers, bleeding fingers, the whole damn lot. No plumber in their right mind would want to work with this stuff. But I did, because I wanted ridiculously strong, oversized waste pipe. Many pro plumbers would say you don't need 50mm... Sorry - a bit off topic there!