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4 minutes ago, Onoff said:

All along I could have sworn the hinges were going the side the lock is! ?

Yes i saw you thought this.. but didn't matter I could still follow your tips.

 

Yes hinges were originally going that side.. but thought door open might obstruct window. Also same now as bed2 doors hinges. The right choice.. i think.

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2 minutes ago, joe90 said:

Glad your getting somewhere, they are lockshield valves but personally I would want TRV,s on one end to control max temp per room.

Understood, but if i just want all available heat i can from the rad, if not all the rads, I think I can do away with the expense of installing many of these. Even 1. I understand if a trv is put in thermostat room its daft as it'll fight the main thermostat.. so that's one i defo dont need. But it gets a bit complicated with one vs another.

 

Ok, so I have two of these valves then. At the mo Im turning one side down to half. Will this knock the rad heat down to half? Or, do I need to turn -both- down to half to achieve this? 

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On 27/01/2021 at 15:33, joe90 said:

I am not an expert on ASHP,s and radiators but with a normal boiler the TRV is the way to limit the room temp, surely it’s the same with an ASHP?


Usually yes, but TRV in this case is irrelevant as the rads are undersized, especially in the kitchen and bathroom so they will never hit the temperatures. 
 

Reading the comments though it looks like when all the compensation system is taken out, the heat pump can get some temperature up which would point to configuration issues too when installed, or installer error... 

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17 minutes ago, Onoff said:

I'm NOT saying do so at all but a little embellishment you can make with these doors is to run a router around the edges of the ledges and braces. Rounds the edge over and saves you catching your arm, hip etc as you brush by.


Done exactly this, not on the diagonal braces but the 3 ledges. Copied my orig C1830 kitchen door's ledges. I'll do a closer pic later.

 

Onoff whilst your there.. One irregular ditty to think of before i nail on plant ons: my latch/ handle side of door has a bit of a warp, 5 mm only, but if i  were to set my 3 x plant on strips perfectly 20 mm door depth ( plus your 1mm OCD paint allowance!) all around.. 

 

the top  of the door would sit 5 mm off the plant on,  & the middle of door correctly sitting on it. So my thinking is - follow - the slightly irregular door warp profile & add plant ons accordingly.. so it'll sit perfectly onto them, resulting in it closing a little proud of the frame, on the face side top rhs but hey so what. 

 

Is this is preferable to fixing plant ons perfectly @ 21 mm depth, all round.. & having an annoying gap between door and plant-on due to the warp? Or do i sort of set the latch hook plate in a bit, & sort of squeeze the door closed/ forcing the door a little each time closed.

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16 minutes ago, PeterW said:

Reading the comments though it looks like when all the compensation system is taken out, the heat pump can get some temperature up which would point to configuration issues too when installed, or installer error... 

 

Great to hear the heat now appears to be coming through, but another slap of frustration given that the suggestion to disable weather compensation was made back in November. If that'd been followed we might well have all been saved from 40-odd pages of toing and froing since, not to mention given Zoot a warmer Christmas. Sigh.

 

 

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14 minutes ago, PeterW said:


Usually yes, but TRV in this case is irrelevant as the rads are undersized, especially in the kitchen and bathroom so they will never hit the temperatures. 
 

Reading the comments though it looks like when all the compensation system is taken out, the heat pump can get some temperature up which would point to configuration issues too when installed, or installer error... 

 

Im of the thinking the default settings, like heat curve 0.8, are set for ufh rather than rads.. & they just couldn't be bothered to set it up optimally. Tbh I wasn't expecting them to though (which they would have if i was a direct customer of theirs Im totally sure, in normal situations) due to it being on a grant, foc etc. Yes they - ought- to have ideally, in normal circumstances i agree.
 

I think you're just asking too much of them to expect this level of tuned set up, within the situation I was fortunate to be in. 

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3 minutes ago, MJNewton said:

 

Great to hear the heat now appears to be coming through, but another slap of frustration given that the suggestion to disable weather compensation was made back in November. If that'd been followed we might well have all been saved from 40-odd pages of toing and froing since, not to mention given Zoot a warmer Christmas. Sigh.

 

 

Tbh with respect I don't think that has been established as such. Weather compensation is back in effect, afaik, once id found the thermostat setting.. & rads are hotter: so its back as it was before, just with two changes: upping heat curve, and ' unchecking' this noise reduction weird damn setting, 'letting handbrake off fully' being a way I can think might describe it now.
 

So it seems likely it must be one, or both of these thats done the trick.
 

The irony of any 'noise reduction' mode hardly lost on me!!

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I don't suppose Onoff has a clue about my plant on question.. anyway need bloomin nails for them now. lost heads best?

 

Got a really good fit of my latch on the catch, snug & tight onto the temp stopper behind, pleased, right faff to do this.

ADE5DECE-CE5D-4631-990E-6F0DD760B07F.jpeg

B075ACA3-8052-42D0-8202-0823D3B9DF84.jpeg

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1 hour ago, zoothorn said:

I don't suppose Onoff has a clue about my plant on question.. anyway need bloomin nails for them now. lost heads best?

 

Got a really good fit of my latch on the catch, snug & tight onto the temp stopper behind, pleased, right faff to do this.

ADE5DECE-CE5D-4631-990E-6F0DD760B07F.jpeg

B075ACA3-8052-42D0-8202-0823D3B9DF84.jpeg

Looking good mate, personally I hate doors that rattle, so if there is a little warp that means the door is tight when it’s shut that is a good thing, plus fir an old cottage things are allowed to be a little wonky!!! (Yes lost heads).

Edited by joe90
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7 hours ago, zoothorn said:

So my thinking is - follow - the slightly irregular door warp profile & add plant ons accordingly.. so it'll sit perfectly onto them, resulting in it closing a little proud of the frame, on the face side top rhs but hey so what. 

 

Agreed. Call any wonky bit character! 

 

I forget are you painting the door?

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1 hour ago, Onoff said:

Out of interest are your original doors "haunched"?

 

That is the braces "haunch" into the ledges like this:

 

SAM_8065_zps5ca2b261

 

Just a door I knocked up from literally scrap for the shed.

 

SAM_8062_zps0c54780c

 

Show off! 

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1 hour ago, Gus Potter said:

Onoff.

 

Have you been playing with a biscuit jointer? Can almost see a wee scuff with the plane along the top on the end grain too! Built to last that gate. Oh, and is that a proper brass hinge at the bottom?

 

Biscuit jointer? No, slot cut on the table saw and continuous tongues of 6mm ply. Stainless steel hinges. It's the bottom half of a stable door. I did then rebate the top. All a bit rough but solid. 

 

SAM_8064_zpsfb13f2ac

 

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3 minutes ago, Onoff said:

 

Biscuit jointer? No, slot cut on the table saw and continuous tongues of 6mm ply. Stainless steel hinges. It's the bottom half of a stable door. I did then rebate the top. All a bit rough but solid. 

 

SAM_8064_zpsfb13f2ac

 

Those screws aren’t lined up! They are all over the place... shoddy slapdash approach. ?

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4 minutes ago, Gav_P said:

Those screws aren’t lined up! They are all over the place... shoddy slapdash approach. ?

That shows they are correctly torqued, not possible if you line that up.

 

But sod that, the countersink is not deep enough. You either need smaller head screws, or get your countersink bit out and countersink the hinges a bit more.

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3 minutes ago, ProDave said:

But sod that, the countersink is not deep enough. You either need smaller head screws, or get your countersink bit out and countersink the hinges a bit more.

 

Built from scrap and whatever accumulated junk and fixings. As per usual my interest waned so I don't reckon I'll be getting back to the screws any time soon! 

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Great "old school" stuff from Onoff. It's amazing what you can do with a table saw with a bit of care, often no need to spend a fortune on tools you may only use once.

 

@ProDave.. but the job is not finished.. I'm confident that Onoff will (eventually) find the correct imperial slotted screw to fit the countersink in the hinge, installed so that the slot is vertical so that externally the water won't lie in the slot (or for an internal door prevent paint drips) .. don't take my word for it, wait until you see the finshed result..

 

 

 

 

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18 minutes ago, Gus Potter said:

don't take my word for it, wait until you see the finshed result..


we are still waiting for the bathroom to be finished that he started on a previous forum ... which wouldn’t be so bad but BuildHub is 5 years old in May this year !!

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26 minutes ago, PeterW said:


we are still waiting for the bathroom to be finished that he started on a previous forum ... which wouldn’t be so bad but BuildHub is 5 years old in May this year !!

I'm  a relative new comer to BH, but it seems that there are "no friends in the desert" on BH.. Rommel WW2.. maybe a take/adaptation on the French Legionnaires established circa 1831?

 

Onoff still has time to finish the bathroom and the gate before BH birthday... last laugh and all that.

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10 hours ago, Onoff said:

 

Built from scrap and whatever accumulated junk and fixings. As per usual my interest waned so I don't reckon I'll be getting back to the screws any time soon! 


No my orig doors aren't haunched. Haunching looks like the biggest pain in the butt.. but that's an impressive door, especially from scrap!

 

Ok understand my plant ons best follow the door contour. Thx.

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