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Such lengths of 6mm flat bar if held at each end will deflect under their own weight. Just look around all the houses of the pre 70's build that had timber windows replaced with pvc or ali. Most have cracking brickwork where the support provided by the wooden frame has been taken away. Yes it is only a triangle of brickwork above the window but still a problem caused by idiots. A bigger question would be if this is being suggested as a fix then what else has he done you don't know about? You also don't say what else is supported above the window.

A brush ... less likely to come back in your face/eyes and all those ears.

We needed a warranty to get the build loan. While not retrospective it's still not worth the paper it is written on.

Am I missing something... (I am but that another story).. With peak PV production druing the middle of the day how can you use all from a 4Kw system without a battery storage system diy install or not. Most peak use is tea time. Our previous house had 3.5kw and full FIT. In the summer we had a very hot hotwater tank but still couldn't use it all during the day. Was getting around £1.4 to £1.6k a year in FIT and five years later the system was sust paid for when we moved. This property was designe to put about 4Kw south facing, lots of insulation and a GSHP but I can't get the PV to stack up even DIY... unless I can get it to feed the GSHP and that can't be done directly without a battery if the sun goes in. I could just feed the HW tank as I have a spare diverter I fixed. Just can't figure an answer at the moment. ... Quotes from 2 MCS suppliers were both very different and didn't make sense.

were the old ones difficult to light?

before we moved we had a south facing 3.5kw system and my son half a mile away had an east west 3.5kw system split both sides of the roof on a dual input inverter. interestingly his produced no less than ours during the winter months.

thank you.

Go with stone not gravel. Gravel moves the stone does not. The planners may want whatever you use permable so no water running off.

"Perhaps" is a good choice. Part of our deal with remaining son and his wife was they use our assests in the combined build but they pay all bills and services into the future. However I have an ingrained interest in the "where does it go" but theirs is to the extent of not wasting stuff but not the detail. He has no interest in my gadget crap so I will not be writing any manuals so I have just done an overlay on the existing and turned it down so my system has priority. So if anything happens to me and my plan B system fails then they switch it off and revert to plan A. All the instructions are already written for those and it's not my fault if they have lost them I did put all that stuff in a nice folder. Not that I would care by that time anyway. That said their nearly seven year old is showing an interest in the science stuff so there maybe hope yet.

Background.. Building was 200 years old with various stables and outbuildings. The original plan was to restore the main building and restore and convert to outbuildings into a granny annex. All the same address and services including heating from GSHP. Planners said we could not do this as they could be separated and we may sell them as seperate dwellings in the future etc. However we could remove all the 200 yo outbuildings and walled gaden wall and replace them with an extension on the main building thus it would be one dwelling. So fine it's a renovated old building with a direct access extension that we are using as a granny annex which does have its own kitchen area. So one would think a simple EPC from the paperwork perspective and the RHI. The VAT people count it as a renovation. The Council tax people rate it as a single building with annex but not rated due to my dissability, future health care is why we started the project. The RHI people are happy and we get the first payment next month. However... While it was fine for the RHI the nice EPC man has had his annual audit and they have selected this one to look at. They are telling him it should be classed as new build and requires a SAP. I am not expecting any cost implications from what he needs to do as hesays it is his problem but. The whole SAP process seems a less than valuable tick in the box process of assess some drawings, tell us it's built the same, give us a wedge of cash, provide tick in the box. He is a very nice one man band and I want to help him but what are the implications here and any general thoughts?

The floor sensor would go in a small tube just under the floor covering. The tube is so it can be replaced without digging the floor up. It is there to protect the floor covering as many are limited to 24 -30 degrees C, timber or laminate etc. The thermostat should be using two sensors, floor and air. Whichever reaches its setting first would turn the feed off. You should not be feeding high temperatures into the floor anyway. We have a mixture of polished concrete, tile (ground floor) and wood (first floor). The wood floors all have floor sensors the concrete and tile do not. The max feed temp is 35 and the tile and concrete floors never get above 22 degrees anywhere.

This sounds a bit serious. Assume it is a new build with a new supply from the DNO. What earth system have they provided? It should tell you on a label in the incomming cabinet where your meter would be. A number of questions need to be asked as it sounds as you have a voltage on your internal earth, that is assuming you have metal faceplates on your light switches and not some high static plastic stuff?

I doubt you will find anything to do with specific size. But.. I made a similar condtruction for our static caravan but used a bit of 50x100 flat for the rail. it looked good and worked well if you were not physically using it. I have a problem with radiation nerve damage to my leg and over the three years the static caravan was in use my need to use the rail increased to the point of pulling myself up by it. What it really needed was a round rail of about 40mm dia. What I am saying is perhaps think who may need to use it.

You maybe a bit late but... do a quick google and you will find much advice even to the point of do the individual items need it and if they do the type of lighting to use.

Good luck. Ours did similar and just stopped talking to us as did a spark that was all keen. However it turned out well in the end if not better than it would have. However there were a few sleepless nights and it took a while longer!

Thst seems a small pipe if you have more than one outlet or shower. Ours is 40m with two kitchens and two showers on that run. The feed is 22mm and return is 15mm (all well insulated) the pump is on the return with a timer set for morning, lunch time and evening with weekends a bit longer. There is a stat on the oulet of the pump. The pump is set to it's lowest flow and runs for less than five minutes of the initial time period before the stat switches it off.. We have just short of two Bar on the cold water feed to the HW tank. It all works and flows very well without control overload.

white vinegar and water removes mould. We had a lot to deal with after stuff was in container storage for a couple of years. The vinegar and water worked like a dream. For other cleaning we use bicarb. Septic tanks do not like milk as it also kills off the bugs. We have framed signs in each of the toilets the read .. Only the provided toilet paper and what you have first eaten may be deposited. The penalty for failure to comply is that of the Sedition act of the 1400's ...

we have a few spare

A battery for an i-pace was £32k fitted.

Not sure I would want these things in my house. Any fault on them (while rare) would be a disaster. It'snot just the battery but the charge controller which tends to e the expensive bit. I have a couple of 48v batteries used in MHEV I have been looking at. These batteries are used for the stop start function and power other systems including the charging of the 12v cold start battery. These batteries require an external controller to switch them on and typically its not just a switch wire but a code via the ODB2 bus. I have "parked" them for the moment. I expect as more of these batteries come on the surplus market the price will drop and the solution more simple.

In the past the bloke over the road reversed his powerfull car into his house. The house nor the car didn't do well.

https://www.gasproducts.co.uk/media/productattach/custom/upload/File-1452267651.pdf does this help

We had been in a while before the GSHP was commissined (even without heat it was better than the caravan my son, his wife and kids were in. We were ok in a touring caravan) so I put six months on the application. We fell foul of the bank stuff as I used the joint build account that was in the name of myself and his wife. Personal Bank accounts would only allow two names. Problem was I had done the RHI in his name as it was on the MCS info. While the online system accepted it and said the application was in the queue. It then sent an e-mail to him to say the bank account would need verification as it wasn't the same name as the applicant. You can't go back and change anything online we had to do it over the phone. Key thing to remember is once the button is pressed you are recorded as "in" the system however how long it takes to solve any bank issues. We resolved any issues we had on the phone with them. They were very good.

Same as us .... we still have a bit to do for final sign off. Just ""answer"" the questions they ask but as stated you need a valid EPC and MCS cert. The bank info must match the location and be in the name of the applicant. You will need to attach verification of the bank, a picture of the statement if you can't upload a pdf file. The online forms have been around from day one but leave a bit to be desired and the nice lady on the phone knows that.

is it not too late given all the gypsum product that appears in the picture?