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We just used a very fine saw but you must cut it as a pack. Very hard to do if it has been expanded. Fold it back up and wrap with a layer of cling film. Very easy to install if the bloody builders had used a constant spacing on the joists. If you are using the HControl on the inside then put the final battern horizontal as it makes fitting plasterboard easy and provides a simple path for cables without going through the Hcontrol.

You can't directly switch the HP off and on because the solar is not constant. The diverters pulse the immersion heater with the solar surplus, you can't do that with a heat pump. You need a battery system. Solar charges the battery with the surplus and the battery via an inverter provided the constant output required for the heat pump. You would need to know how much surplus solar you will get. How much your HP needs including any starting currents. How long you want to run the pump on your solar, to size the battery requirement. Then you will need to switch to the battery at the required time. If only the HP was connected to the inverter then this could be done by the battery and inverter based on the power in the battery.

No structural timber partitions. Timber was glued to the finished floor. Yes Timber in place of frames gave the ffl. No internal blockwork. The nice man with a small power plane and hand trowel did the slopes. Whole floor is one level and drains were set lower allowing for a slope to the drain. It was all done in one pour, just under 100sqm. No pictures on this device but I will see what was taken.

Our polished structured concrete floor with UFH has been down about 18 months and no damage that we have noticed, heating has been on for about four. Issues we had were with the builder we used to get us to DPC and the subfloor work suffered from slope in his spirits and bent string. The outside walls were woodcrete ICF or glass. All partitions were done after the floor. Glass frames were done after the floor. The finished floor level was set to the threshold of the sliding doors (bedroom 4.5m living room 7m) and the main enterance door which was part of a 9m glass wall. To enable the floor to be finished at this level I started with 150x50 timber which was reduced in thickness by a Aldi bench plane machine (took a while) to the correct thickness and then screwed to the outer blockwork in the correct place. The concrete floating could then be done over the top of these levels. Next problem was the shower drains. Two were required. I couldn't find anything abvailable in the uk. So I modified two very expensive slot type drains from screwfix and set levels using the same process as for the doors. The main man from the floor supplier was more than happy as his power floaters had unrestricted access. The floor is 150mm with two layers of steel mesh and spacers. The UFH is between the mesh, I think. There are a number of expansion slots cut in the floor but most of these are under the intended partitions and edge of the mesh. The man incharge of the men that came to float the floor said we cant put a slope in the floor for the showers as concrete is flat. I pointed out that the other main man said you could. The two nice men doing the floating said they would come back later and do those bits by hand. They spent a long time power floating, well past midnight. Then a few weeks later the polishers came. Polished concrete is NOT a quick process. Our is a darker grey and is a fine finish with just the odd bit of aggregate showing.

we seem to be on the same hymn sheet. Yes its wired. It was running on a zero w but node red started to run slow. Moved it to a spare 3b+ that I was trying to run flexray on (now on hold) All that is running on it is MQTT, node red and SQL lite. I may try a new SD card. The D1 mini and espeasy is my favorite toy at the moment. P.S. Don't know anything about Rapier 1 do you? A friend has one that needs a little work, I suggested we may need it.

While the concept sounds ok I assume the code you write will include all the "what if" failure conditions that you may know about and the ones you don't. Via cable the inverter gets a continuous signal. MQTT will not give you that even at very high sample rates. I run MQTT on a Pi3 and while ok there has been the odd delay or sticking over the last three years and even needing two reboots even though it's on a UPS. For some "on and off" switching activities I have included tripple switching just to make sure in cases where there is not instant feedback. I also ping the various modules to see if they are alive and have a fallback or restart process if not. ...not that you can do it anyway...

What did the government web site tell you about this?

just extend the CT cable with a screened cable but only earth the screen at one end.

https://sr-timber.co.uk/dont-judge-a-batten-by-its-cover/

Our building was 1820. We recovere quited a lot of bricks from the heated walled garden wall (planning issue not our requirement to remove it) to use as replacements and the builder did turn a few around. He had not used any of the newer treatments so didnt want to use anything that would seal the bricks given that A) it wasn't that bad afer 200 years and the new lime pointing would keep the water out. B) most of the damage was around areas that had been repaired with gypsum based motar C) Lime needs quite a while to get to its final state and what effect would a breathable sealer have in that process. The building itself still needs to breathe. So we did nothing and a year and a half later no sign of any problem.

didn't realise you are not a new build "2. Date of certificate We need to check whether your EPC was completed in the last 24 months and, in the case of a custom-build property that it was issued after your house was completed." So you should be ok...best of luck.

Get you EPC booked now or even done as long as the cert date is after the MCS certificate date. We had to chase a couple of times to get the MCS certificate, it took them four weeks. Also make sure when you do the RHI application that the bank details match the applicsnt and the address. Once you have put stuff on the online form it can't be changed. The positive point is once you have submitted the form you are on the system even if the they are still asking questions past the end of March. They are very responsive to the telephone should you have issues.

Top end of C. It's a renovation (230sqm), barn rebuild (50sqm) and new extension (90sqm).

It should do. How else do they fuse ring and lighting etc The static caravan my son had had electric heating which was also fused. Our turing caravan had its own CU as thay all do unless its 50 years old. Given your level of knowledge I would suggest you get a local spark involved. Remember some that have done nothing but house bashing may never have touched three phase.

Your DNO will not supply the meter. You will need to get one of the big six to provide it based on the MPAN number ( A Meter Point Administration Number, also known as an MPAN, electricity supply number or supply number is a 13-digit reference, used to uniquely identify every electricity supply point in the country.) We got the gas board to do ours as they were the quickest. Meter supply is free but you have to contract to them for a year. We just built a three phase board with one phase for the builder, one phase for the caravan and one phase for the laundry shed (two washers and two dryers) and a three phase supply for the brick saw. The caravan has its own CU as did the shed. The builder only had access to the sockets below the main board.

Well, got the heating on 1st December and the MCS certificate first week if January. The EPC took a while. The online ones were a waste of time so got a local (ish) man in. Although he was very busy so it did take a couple of weeks. Got the EPC the second week in Feb then filled in the online RHI forms and process. Went well except we used the joint build bank account for the payments. Once entered it can't be changed. So the needed verification of the account, inside leg, number of eyes etc. However they are excellent on the phone. A couple of emails and it was sorted. Got the payment detail though today. All in with the UFH (400sqm) and 1500m of pipe in the garden and while we did most of the install ouselves, elecrical, most plumbing and all UFH. it still cost around £35k for the whole heating and hotwater system . Good news that the RHI will cover this over the seven years.

You need a lot more information from them. e.g. is that 1A at 240v (10A at 24v) or 1A into the battery which requires a lot less. Also where you run the cable has a lot to do with the load you can put on it i.e in the air, on a fence or underground. This is because the loss in the cable results in heat. You would also need a local earth at the gate. Even if the supply is PME most distribution network operators (DNOs) do not allow the export of an earth.

6A is a one HP motor. It must be a big gate. As has been stated the problem is voltage drop and the reguired start current if it is a 1hp motor. 25mm cable is goingto be very very expensive. Thing is, if the gate company is any good they should be aware of all this.

Perhaps you have answered your own question.

but what supply rating were you getting? Single or three phase does not mean anything without knowing how much you can take from it or what you requested.

The neutral to the circuit is supplied through the RCBO. When the current in the neutral and the live are in balance the RCBO will not trip. If the neutral loses this balance though a loose connection even for a very very short period the RCBO will see this as a fault and trip.

we used the stainless straps and nails as used for timber frame. Had to get the long ones and cut them down. Each strap made two. Needed three holes for the motar in the cut bit and one nail hole in the off cut but my time was free and it saved about 500 straps. Knock the nail into the ICF at a downward angle and they hold very well.

If this is the case then the fuses maybe fake and do not comply with BS1363 or there is a fault with the fuse connections The rating given in BS1363 are not intermitant ratings they are continuous ratings. There are a lot of fake plugs and fuses out there. As an aside the other issue that is not so obvious to a lot of people is the 13A twin socket. The rating is not 13A per socket.

and those trades that borrow your extension lead but do not unroll it all and it comes back as one working but stuck together blob.

Each element has a fixed resistance, say 19.2 ohms for a 3kw element on 240v using one on 240v gives a current of 12.5 amps (I = V/R) using two in series the resistance is added so we have 38.4 ohms So if used on 240v we have 240/38.4 = 6.25 amps and the power W = V X A gives 240 x 6.25 = 1500 or 1.5 kw.