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Luckylad

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Everything posted by Luckylad

  1. Luckylad
    Yes I had problems getting my Sunamp delivered. In the end I spoke directly to Sunamp. I’ve pmd who the distributor is.
  2. Luckylad
    We’ve adapted those vents before by taping up the front and drilling a hole in the underside of the vent so the hole is in the head of the render rather than on the face.
  3. Luckylad
    That looks good,have you got a photo of how it looks now?
  4. Luckylad
    AnonymousBosch have you considered using Airless Plaster?
  5. Luckylad
    Glad you like it, I’m not sure why all of the photo didn’t upload. We mix the render scratch coat to a ratio of 4 sand/1 cement/half hydrated lime . The top coat we mix 6 sand/1 cement/1 hydrated lime.Half a mug full of wickes waterproofer in each mix, whether its scratch coat 12/3/1.5 or topcoat 12/2/2. Large handful of reinforcement fibre in the scratch coat and 75% less in the topcoat. The sand is 50% soft washed plastering sand and 50% sharp sand. Rule it off and rub it up quickly.When we’re Pargetting we start tapping the moulds with the butt of a large pointing trowel into the wet render as soon as possible. Speed is of the essence. That piece of wood in the photo is straight in one direction but curved the other way,so I could almost roll out the imprint . We’ve never used mould release oil,just being abit cautious about how masonry paint would stick to it. I mostly use a dry rag to rub the mould when sticky or dip it in a bag of kiln dried sand ,the type they use for block paving.
  6. Luckylad
    Hi I like the idea of what you’re trying to achieve. I picked up some timber from the skip at work and pushed it into my render. Don’t know if that’s the appearance that you are after.
  7. Luckylad
    +1 to the above, the brickies here mentioned bicarbonate of soda. Hecateh what has your builder used?
  8. Luckylad
    I’ve seen people use diluted vinegar,bit smelly but it worked. Find out what your brick manufacturer says.
  9. Luckylad
    Hello We use baking soda to clean our plastering machines,do you think it could be harmful in any way to them? Theres very hard rubber inside the machines and I often wonder if it'll do long term damage. Thanks.
  10. Luckylad
    Thanks for the suggestion but I don’t think it would work because you wouldn’t be able to build up a thick enough layer of pva. Previously we’ve only done a parge coat for sound proofing behind dot and dab. I was undecided whether to do it on my own house. Having seen your suggestion and read up on it, I’ll do it for airtightness ,on my own house,but it’s not something builders want to pay for.
  11. Luckylad
    Hi Is the parge coat really worth doing? Does it make the airtightness that much better?
  12. Luckylad
    Hi Do you have a cross section plan of this you could post here please?
  13. Luckylad

    Hi

    Luckylad replied to Hecateh's topic in Introduce Yourself

    Those bricks are a lovely colour and I like the corbel design. That view is amazing!
  14. Luckylad
    They are more thermally efficient on paper but not in the real world. The 2 wet looking patches that fall away from the upper window are cracks that can easily be seen in daylight ,the lighter coloured areas had frost on them. glad to hear that about your walls @Declan52, could you give me a detailed breakdown of them please? mine have got bed joint reinforcement, which was a bit like a toy train track. that camera looks the dogs dangles!
  15. Luckylad
    @Moira Niedzwiecka ive got a photo of my neighbors house which is 6 years old ,where you can actually see the heat escaping from the cracks in lightweight blocks. You can also see cold bridging and missing insulation!
  16. Luckylad
    Hi I wouldn't use thermalite or celcon blocks again. They've hairline cracked all over my internal cavity block. I'm now putting silicone over the cracks before I parge coat and dot n dab. I used fibolite on the outside skin,I haven't found 1 crack in them yet. It's extremely difficult to get a fixing in light thermal blocks as well
  17. Luckylad
    Hello to @juj, looks like a very interesting project, hope you get the vat sorted. Sorry about being off topic, but @Alexphd1 , do you have any info on that graco machine?
  18. Luckylad
    Hello I’m not aware of any legislation,I change ours without any problems. we had our gas boiler serviced after it had been sited because our plumber said the pipe joints might be stressed while it was being moved. I fitted a trace heating cable to all the pipe work and waste pipes,it was about 50 metres long. It works well but couldn’t cope with minus 5! Do you know how long you’re going to live in the caravan?
  19. Luckylad
    Yes you’re correct it’s data sheet says it’s suitable for tanking underground
  20. Luckylad
    Hi be careful of using that to tank underground. It says plasticiser on the tub which means ,amongst other thing it adds air bubbles to the mix.
  21. Luckylad
    Hello you’ll have some spectacular views from your barn! Just out of curiosity,have you done a price comparison between a concrete floor and a limecrete floor?
  22. Luckylad
    Thanks for the search information. Wall bracing seems to be one of the most important items with all icf. Did you allow for this in your costing? What finishes are you going to put inside and outside
  23. Luckylad
    Many years ago a house using icf was built near me and it was the talk of the town! Just looks an interesting way to build , what do you think of your durisol? What stage of your build are you at? Did you build it yourself ? why did you choose durisol above the other systems on offer? sorry about all the questions!
  24. Luckylad
    I’m really interested in icf,thanks for putting this up. Does the internal and external insulation come already built into the wall?
  25. Luckylad

    Hi

    Luckylad replied to Hecateh's topic in Introduce Yourself

    I think it’s been said before but don’t let the ba*tards grind you down ! I know it’s not easy to ignore that kind of abuse,but you’re going to have a lovely new home to move into.
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