Marvin

So no other soil pipe air venting on your property in the design. Its possible that the Architect is just being cautious. May have been a problem before on another job. During high winds here I have witnessed strong airflow out of soil stacks... M

Could be the Architect is just being cautious. Any chance of a quick call to ask the Architect Tomorrow? Maybe a retrofit? Sorry I don't know how difficult that would be with your roof design. M.

Hi Conor As we know an AAV let's air in and a vented soil stack let's air in and out. It may be that the Architect feels there is the possibility of air pressure building up enough in the soil pipes to cause some of the water traps to fail expelling smells into the building. This possibility requires consideration of the pipework in the building as well as all the way down to the first vented soil stack which could be several houses away. So I wouldn't just slap an AAV in without checking. It may also be a smaller pipe will do the job.... Then again a possible retrofit if you have a problem? Best of luck Conor Marvin

Is that tin foil or an inflamable alternative?

Is the wall an external one or a party wall one?

? If you use the same scale rule on your build surely the result would actually be a smaller property.

On my renovation I installed 80mm pipe in a pea shingle trench wrapped in geotextile. My narrow trench was against the external wall all around the building. I didn't put any soil on the top, just wrapped the shingle completely round and just added 2 inches of shingle on top for show. The shingle sits between the external wall and the block paving. We have timber joist floors and the top of the pipe lies just below the top of the floor slab. As there is no soil between the external wall and the geotextile I feel it won't easily clog whilst I feel the geotextile will keep the clay fines out of the shingle on the paving side. Good luck M

Yes you are right. Renting, selling or to take up some of the green deals, you would need to have an EPC. So if you never want any of those then I guess your ok. And yes, if you were wanting verified insulation layers then an EPC inspections when building should give you verification, however on the ASHP deal they would only accept an EPC less than 2 years old. So you just crack on.? M.

Adsibob, bit of a side issue. When we were renovating our home we were advised to keep the EPC assessor informed of the progress so the assessor can inspect /confirm insulation, espically where insulation was more than the minimum for Building Regulations. Expect you've got this covered. Best of luck. Marvin.

250 foot hosepipe! Big garden you've got!

Where would you draw the air from to cool the upstairs loft rooms -assuming from the outside, so the system would not be on during a hot day only during the night?

A PIV system may be your best bet in your situation. This is, of course, quite different from an MVHR system. I was considering the running costs as well. Where roughly is your project?

I thought that the lead could not be longer than in 1.5 meter pieces overlapped by 100mm? That's what I have always done. Perhaps someone will correct me... It's good to learn.....

I think you need to be carefull about mixing different systems resulting in them not working properly. As I understand it (and I installed our MVHR) an MVHR system works by controling air in and out of the building and in the box where they cross the temprature is exchanged between the 2. The efficency is related to a few things: Airtightness including no trickle vents. Correctly sized units and ducting. Correct adjustment of the flows from each inlet and outlet. The idea behind the layout of the inlets and outlets is that the air is ducted into the dry areas and out of the wet areas causing the air to circulate. I'll let other people tell you that they have MVHR and open windows on some occasions, and have extractor fans in the kitchen. However the MVHR needs to be able to work correctly when the windows are closed and the fans are off. Remember the MVHR or the MV will run for almost 9000 hours a year and so you need it to work as effortlessly as possible. Good luck Marvin

As you probably know it's air in = air out. So, do you have a drafty building? Do you have trickle vents in the windows? Do you have any other form of air being ducted into the building? And general questions which will help to understand if this is a big or small system: I guess 2 stories high? How many square meters floor area? Questions about your proposed system that just provides cool air: If in the winter ( yes another thing that it would help to know) it gets cold, would you turn the system off and if so how would you obtain fresh air? Help us to help ? Good luck Marvin

You'll soon get sorted. Just plan ahead. Good luck Marvin

Any idea how many times a day that would happen? Would it use and lose more energy when it's colder and the ASHP less efficient?

MHVR location - utility room or garage? Can't say except that more pipe = more insulation= more cost. As commented by joth: as a yard stick not good positioning outside thermal envelope because of heat loss/gain. We have found a MVHR very good (but I'm not saying perfect) but the further away from perfect the further away from perfect the results. I would check carefully the installation instructions for guidance. Good luck.

Someone will know but I think it's a calculation about the following: Volume of air exchanged times the weight difference between the humidity level of the warm moist air before going into the MVHR and the lower temprature air's dew point coming out of the MVHR after losing any heat. So: Temprature and humidity level of the air beforegoing into MVHR will give you the weight of the air at start. Temprature and dewpoint of the air leaving the MVHR will give you the weight of the air at end. Start weight minus end weight will give you condensation weight. Times this by volume of air passing through MVHR per hour and you have the amount of condensation produced per hour. Then someone boils a kettle or has a bath or shower and all your calculations go to pot! Sometimes ours is nothing sometimes a trickle. I don't think it's poisonous. Can't you get it out to a soak away? I await the flood of corrections to my thinking... Marvin

Oh! Better get it out the skip. It's gone like a car windscreen.

Welcome. Always good to ask ahead of time. Marvin

One of the PV panels I bought was badly damaged and the supplier replaced it. What am I supposed to do in order to dispose of the broken one? Any ideas?

Well my guess is that if they were cheap everyone would have them. I think they would not work on a pitched roof. I'll let the more knowledgeable plough in with all the technical reasons. Good luck. Marvin

Your having a laugh!!!

The problem with Leylandii is that if you cut it back too hard it will stay bare.