Marvin

Is that 8 meters away from the 3 fuses???

Solar panels down in one piece. Working on Mvhr coil design

Not quiie sure I understand the maths of all this. As I understand it the less the temprature difference between air temprature and the required water temprature, within the parameters of the ASHP output, the better the COP. Yes the bigger the surface area of the coil the quicker the heat transfers to the water, however the less the temprature change the more efficient the ASHP. This is the same with the heating. So lower and longer should be more efficient than higher and quicker even when the amount of heat exchanged from the output of the ASHP to the heating / hot water is the same in both instances. However the water temp needs to be comparatively high for the hot water. Perhaps I missed something.. M

I think its both hots at top and both colds at bottom. I could be wrong. My one has no coil

Oh the joys of trigonometry, a good level and some long tapes. How things have changed, When I was a chainman(lad) we had to stand out in all weathers and hold on t't tape and engineer would shout at us if the hail stones made the tape sag. I say we stood, but t't hail stones would hit you like they were shot from a gun, and by the time you got home, and of course we had 12 hour shifts in them days, you would look like a lobster that had been dunked in a pan of boiling water. I say home, well it was home to us....

Also, the most important area to level is the side with the enclosure is on. Is that a rectangular or quadrant shower going in?

On the 100+ showers I have fitted I never used a seal like that. I always sealed the tray to the wall with a quality sealant (785), then tiled down to about 2mm off the top of the tray, grouted down to the bottom of the tile leaving the 2mm gap, and then sealed the 2mm gap with no problems.

You find the same sort of problem with baths. With a shower above, you can have pooling on the top edge in the corners... I often have had shower trays that aren't level. Sometimes it's a fight between getting the water to go down the waste and ensuring the tray edge is level enough for the shower enclosure.... Never see any installation instruction covering that dilemma!

I think it depends if there are Air Admittance Valves (AAV's) which would allow air into the pipes but not out, and, if the design requires air to escape the pipes which would mean a pipe would need to terminate outside the building. Good luck M

There yours if we can sort out some time in the not too distant future. ?

Very true. The only thing is I had 4 times the heat in the summer when I didn't need very hot water, where as I can use the PV to produce cooling, and not enough heat in the winter when I need hotter water. Also it's another system to maintain.

and because I have panels on a metal frame this is the reason I have to earth bond the frame.?

Yes our solar HW was years before PV and I kind of got the habit. However now installed ASHP it's a completely different situation.

After much deliberation I am removing the solar hot water panels from the roof and replacing the area with PV. I have heard others say on Buildhub that the solar hot water idea is dead and I tend to agree as we have an ASHP. Also it reduces the amount of systems in the house to be maintained.

Hi Peg n Bru You should be very proud of your decision not to carry on with the wrong thing at the wrong cost. Too many times I have kept digging when already in a hole. When dealing with client requirements I always consider the following: Only set out to build a building that is 75% of your budget, if you do not have detailed info but best estimates, if you want to avoid sleepness nights. (Espically at present) Is this a forever house. If so prepare for less-abled access to everything. Wider doors to the whole house say extra 2k. 1 month in care home because access in your home is no good 5k. I would aim for level access from kerb side through home and into back garden. Other items need to be future proofed. We have a ensuite that can be altered for wheelchair access although you wouldn't know it. Excavating for a basement comes under the heading of the Dark Art. You never know what's down there, espically if the history of the ground is not known. This usually blows budgets.... and if it doesn't think yourself lucky. As the build goes on keep a rough budget. Know how much you are over budget. Know what you can save money on if you have to. Have a good look at what you think you want and what you need. 3 ensuites sounds great until you have to clean them. Roughly measure the floor area of the building. Is this too big or too small compared with other similar homes. You can check on rightmove for floor areas. Ensure the airtightness and thermal resistance are good. You only pay for the once. Heating every year and the cost keeps rising... Good luck. M

Unless the claim is easily under 10k or over 60k and you have 120k to take the risk, or it's a slam dunk and even then good luck.

All the time risking more and more on a possible outcome. No thank you.

I would be looking at the alternative ways to survive the situation. With what is going on, from what I understand, you have 2 problems. You need to move in and the build is behind schedule. In your circumstance I would be looking at how to survive what realistically is going to be a delay in completion and prepare ahead for it. I would avoid all unnecessary personal expenditure, see if I can stay with friends, relatives, consider at what stage I would be prepared to move in to a partially completed home and so on. None of this is fun, but it's not going to go away. Again, I would be writing an extensive list of all the items that are left to do, and then ask the people on Buildhub for an estimate of how long each one could take, and then you will have a more realistic picture of where your going. Yes some can be worked on in unison but not too many. I would be creating a critical path of the works which would be a good indicator of how far to go. I would do it in reverse. As an example: Before furniture in it was the carpets, before that, decoration, before that electrical second fix, before that plumbing second fix, before that kitchen and bathrooms, before that plastering, before that all services, and so on. This list also gives you a time line and you can follow the progress. I think the next milestone for your build is to be watertight, and I would ignore driveway at present. As a side issue the electric car charging at home: Our charger which is about a 3kw one basically charges at a rate of about 14 miles for every hour of charging. You can have a charger that will do about 7 times quicker recharging but will use 22kw Good luck M

Any use: https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&source=web&rct=j&url=https://www.resol.de/Produktdokumente/48005931_DeltaSol_BS_Plus_V2.monen.pdf&ved=2ahUKEwjO-9HorM_yAhX-h_0HHeXJBEcQFnoECAgQAQ&usg=AOvVaw2heYqDTppJTSYgTXHhY1qs

Hi Niel I'm sure you'll take into consideration level access and less able requirements, for your relative, in the build to ensure your help lasts as a long time. Best M

Learn as much as you can here before you start and learn by others mistakes (and mine). Otherwise you end up muttering about how you could have done better, and would the next time (your now an addict). Good luck M

Sorry this was missed... Two reasons the water can run: The filler valve (part 37905) is not sealing off properly causing the tank to fill to high causing the water to rise over the overflow level and empty in to the pan The seal on the flushing mechanism is not sealing completely causing water to trickle through into the pan. These things often happen in hard water areas when there is no softener device. If your on a meter, keep isolated when not in use. Good luck M

Might try coolenergy. I use their 60 litre one.

On this one the problem was solved by ducting terminating at the sides.

I would check the regulations on air brick requirements first as they have changed over the years. You may find that the one you want to cover is not required now. What I would do: Add an airbrick to the side of the building where there is going to be no patio. or Add an airbrick in the wall 150mm above the patio each side of the patio doors ducted down. or Break down below the airbrick and extend a duct under the proposed patio foundations to come out either on a side or at the end of the patio or What ever the next bright spark has that is better. Good luck M