Marvin

Apparently the same as Diall insulation roll from B&Q.

Has anyone used Supasoft loft insulation, and if so what did you think of it?

Small home. Misses not impressed with battery one. I want to live.

and easier to do later electrical alterations when some numpty forgets to put a socket in the hallway for the vacuum!

??? My timber framed bungalow was built in the early 1970s, so 50 years old. When we stripped it back to the bare timber frame a couple of years ago, only one piece of timber was replaced due to any problem and that was the the floor joist under the back door threshold that was never protected except for a coat of paint.

Seal tiles all over before laying. Make sure tiles dry before doing this!

What size spacers for the grout are you going to use?

+1

Pad foundation under a corner with a door opening to one side. I would want to have my method checked before commencing. How big does the structural engineer say the pad has to be?

Your quite right! I only wanted to know overall what was required during the winter.

or a £26 meter in series...

So that's just half a swivle clamp? No ....ing idea! I'm too stupid. Unless it's has a different purpose and a bolt head fits inside and the thread out, and good luck with that!

I paid £85 delivered.

The mathematics on this one is important. How much pipe surface is required to change the temprature of the air entering the pipe to exiting the pipe to signifcantly effect the building. It's a bit like a GSHP in that way. I think it's quite a length of pipe!

Of course using he ASHP for cooling requires a lot less energy than heating because: Heating: Outside air temp 0 degrees Inside required temp 23 degrees Difference 23 degrees Cooling Outside temp 33 degrees Inside required temp 21 degrees Difference 12 degrees

Twas SteamyTea that said it. FESTINA LENTE NOBLE SIR!

Yeah. Big fish small pond.

You could try asking the tile suppliers and or the manufacturers for guidance.

Or future wheelchair occupiers...

Building regulations K2 page 33 on...

I thought the distance was anything above 300mm drop required a safety rail?

Cavity timber frame with external brickwork/ block work?

+1 I have car insurance, house insurance and life insurance. At £5k a month care costs preparing for a possible future is a no-brainer. I have worked for to many clients who have had to leave their home because they can't climb steps or get to the bathroom. Also as so many people seem to eventually face these challanges I think having a suitable property to meet long term needs is a good selling point.

I understood the thickness should be one thirtieth of the longest dimension so I would go for 150mm thick.

Is it the render edge that is straight or the door frame? Is the door vertical in the frame? Don't think the foam would have bent the frame, however may be the frame was not fixed solidly enough at the top hinge position and bowed with the weight of the door. Spirit level time....