Marvin

👍 Think your right. Good to check options first though.

You know the button is a dual flush?

You've taken the blue plastic plate away to see the pipes after that are ok??

Can you take a photo showing the flusher system?

When the button is pushed, does the other end of the plastic tube respond? When you take the tubes off the button and push the button is air forced out of the button tube connectors? I.e. is it the button, pipe or flusher not working?

I always fit a PRV now adays. Why do you need more than 3 bar in your home? The pressure changed when the water companies needed to supply more water down the mains pipes leading to new houses. Faster flow = more water per minute at the end. And as @CAdam says more wear on parts with high pressure.

Is polypipe UV stable or does it break down over time?

Concrete base and circular chamber big enough for accessing tank, access through floor to be able to remove tank when required, automatic sump pump incase of flooding, tanking to walls... Yes it can be done, just like your spectacular gates, but it might take a while with a hole open that SHMBO might object to/fall down.

Hmm.. all sort of issues to overcome. Obiviously possible, but undermining foundations giving rise to heave would be my first concern, then drainage, then....

Hmm... the less you heat, then, the more money you save. My tank has 200mm of Supersoft and a box around it. (Carrying out alterations at the moment....)

Lots of different choices... IMHO I would install the option to divert all the heat into one tank when in winter and there is less solar energy, otherwise you end up with lots and lots of lukewarm water. (trust me I know)😧 Again, I would first work out how much hot water is going to be used a day. No point spending loads of money insulating tanks and in the summer the tanks leak warmth which is not welcome in the building. (or perhaps it is, if the tank is in your bathroom!??)

The 40C+ heat in our loft caused the inlet air temp to increase dramatically. I am working on shortening the inlet pipe and increasing the insulation on it. Secondly I am ready to instal 2 thermally controlled fans to extract the heat from the loft once I can work up there. We will see what difference that makes..

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Also are the prices estimates or quotations? ( a quotation a non fluctuating price for the works or an estimate that allows the price to change.)

Hi @Hattie In my humble opinion.... To me, @bmj1 suggestion sounds like the least complicated and gives you the most control. You could deal with the mess one step at a time: Agree and recieve the money from the insurance company. Add that to your build fund figure, deduct 20% from the total for contingencies, and now you have the budget you need to use to be able to do all the work and EVERYTHING associated with the work that has not already been paid for. If you can obtain quotes for the full cost of the works that total less than the budget figure then your in the right area. If the total eats into the 20% contingency then you have to be very careful about additional costs. One of the easiest ways to over spend is by making changes as you go along. Know as much as you can about what you want. Good luck M

Pictures of our Catch pit: This is just our installation. You could use a plastic water butt, with the right pipe entries, by the side of the downpipe but remember to protect against frost. Note that the inlets are at the normal water level to avoid water dropping too far and agitating the sediment at the bottom. Lift the lid and... Central branch fitting inlets both angled. Please not the chamber is empty and would normally have water full to the bottom of the outlet pipe. The catch pit works entirely by gravity. The size of the pipes has to be able to take the potential amount of water coming from the source. No use using a 32mm pipe if your supply is a 75mm down pipe!!! Different angle: You can see by the black tidemark on the left hand pipe the normal level of the water. The position of our catch pit is basically along an uninterrupted pipe between the down pipe and the soakaway. This ensures that any rainwater will pass through the catch pit and then the store before entering the soakaway. Unlike water butt fillers that you usually see attached to down pipes, once full, the store continues to receive fresh water and the excess goes into the soakaway.

We use 4 phases from rainwater to flushing the loo with it and they are: Collecting, separating and storing in bulk tank. Fine filtering and storing in barrel. filling the gravity tank in the loft Filling the cistern This is not the only system that is possible but one that works with our property limitations. This design and its controls take into account freezing conditions. We use two 12V pumps run from batteries and PV. Here is our system: We were limited for space and you can use gravity to your advantage Here is the design of the catch pit: A circular chamber with a flat base side entry pipes angled to make the inflowing water circulate around the edges. A Tee set vertically with the branch horizontal. Construction details could be concrete slab and engineering brick sides with manhole cover and frame like ours. Needs to either be under the ground or drained before frosts if using a plastic tank. Ours was 900 internal diameter, really the bigger the more sediment settles, but this is for about 200m2 catchment area. If your going for smaller I would go for as tall as deep as you can. The separated water goes directly into your bulk storage ready for further filtering. Ours has just been cleaned out and I will take photos tomorrow. M

Evert time I think I have the answer another alternative comes up👍👍👍

Hi @Jenki No. But will do in the next few days (at least start it....) M

Either that or the moisture is coming out of the wall...

This info relates to a DIY rainwater harvesting system, not a commercial system, and therefore the water must not be drunk! You should be careful using rainwater not to mix it with mains (Potable) Water as it is not suitable to drink and you could poison your house supply! To be clear birds poo on your roof and then it rains. However there are ways to elevate the problem in a DIY system so there is no smell or colour problems but it still cannot be drunk! You should not use the recycled rainwater for cooking, bathing or showering. SHMBO will not allow it to be used for clothes washing either. The main uses are for garden watering and toilets, and some people use it for car washing and some for clothes washing (we do not have enough storage). How much rainwater are you going to use on loos? Rough estimates suggest that you use about 70 litres a day flushing loos for 2 people. That's about 25m3 a year. More people more flushes more water... How much rainwater are you going to use in your garden? Well that's a good question and trying to work that out is basically a waste of your time because when its raining you won't need to water the garden. Is it going to rain when you need it is the impossible question to answer. so we used a pessimistic view. Our calculation about storage volume went like this: The averages on the isle of Wight where we are suggest typically 4 rainy days in each month from April through to September, however the actual events over a year are much more uneven. In 2 months, it was assumed no rain for 6 weeks: So 2 people 70 litres a day for a 6 week drought = about 3000 litres or 3 cubic meters. and Garden 200 litres a day for a 6 week drought = about 4200 litres or 4.2 cubic meters. (This was based on 200 drippers supplying plants (no lawns) 0.5 litres a day each) Total requirement about 8m3 Well, we don't have room to store that amount of rainwater so for us it came down to what we did have room for which was about 4.5 cubic meters. If we had the room I would have gone for 10 cubic meters. So this is what our loo water looks like after 4 years: No smell, no clogging up valves no discolouration. and the garden: Yes we run out of rain water, and have a backup from the mains. Based on the volume of water used and the cost of, our DIY installation, we will not save money doing this for many years, however it will reduce our bills going forward for as long as it works and we prefer to use rainwater on the garden. Good luck M

Your so fussy! Is this better? Quite Baroque...

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Outdoor-Fountain-Feature-Polyresin-Decoration/dp/B09BB621BS/ref=asc_df_B09BB621BS/?tag=googshopuk-21&linkCode=df0&hvadid=589182628452&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=8692473759659060502&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=m&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9045701&hvtargid=pla-1651674527463&psc=1 No pipes, no mess looks great.

That sounds just like my bungalow's timber frame....

Hi @cbk Our bungalow can overheat when the outside temperature is over about 11C. We have fairly good AIM and APE (Airtightness, Insulation, MVHR, and ASHP, PV and EV) AIM work well together as a set as do APE. What we have found so far: When using ASHP for cooling: Radiators get condensation when the incoming water is below about 18C in a hot room. Because both valves are at the bottom of the radiarors the cold water ran along the bottom leaving the top warm. The buffer tank needed to be extra insulated to avoid condensation. Condensation dripped off the spinal end of the gate valve when not insulated. In fact everything had to be super insulated when running at 10C in 25C air. I understand that UFH cannot be run much below 18C due to condensation. Some one will clarify as we do not have it. We also have MVHR in the bungalow and the loft gets over 40C at present. We have two main inlet pipes ( air into the rooms) from the MVHR box with a water coil in each, which then split so the air feeds all the required rooms. The coils are fed cold (when required hot) water from the ASHP via the buffer. From these we achieve about 19C air when 28 outside with 10C water when circulating the internal air temp as much as possible. We are trying to install fans to the loft which work when the temperature is over 25 in the loft and expel the air out the building at about ridge height. The bungalow ridge runs north/south leaving gables (and almost all the widows) east and west which have serious solar gain. We have also purchased a 1kw air conditioner a few days ago which we duct to make the heated air go out of a window and I aim to duct the cooler air in from under the suspended floor eventually. (To avoid upsetting the MVHR). As @JohnMo says you could use fan coil units but the set up will need to include the management of condensation water. (As we have in the loft). Good luck. M