Marvin

fusha

Hi @horace To understand these items you can look them up and see if you have them. 1 A tiger loop is a piece of equipment that avoids any air in your oil getting into your boiler burner. A fire valve shuts off the oil to your boiler if the boiler gets too hot (assumes you have a fire) 2 If you don't already have a condensate boiler then you will need to drain the condensation that the new boiler will produce to a drain or a condensate soakaway. 3 Assumes that the connections to the new boiler are not in the same position as the old ones. 4 A magnetic filter collects any iron deposits washing around in the water in the central heating system. As the iron fittings (radiators for example) corrode over time this is collected in the filter. 5 wireless wall thermostatic timed controller that can be controlled manually of via a phone. ( no need to run lots of wires about the house) 6 Two new port valves. used to control the flow of water to the heating, hot water or both. 7 Speaks for itself As they list some items prudent to replace/install whilst having the boiler replaced, I assume that inhibitor will be added to the water to inhibit the corrosion and protect the system and that if the existing water has not been replaced for a long time, that if it is black or has gunge in it the whole system will be flushed through before refilling? IMHO: we converted from a gas boiler to an ASHP and have 5.12kW PV installed. When available we use the PV to heat the house and water, something I could not do with our old gas boiler and you cannot do with an oil boiler unless as @Nickfromwales says you install a special one. 4kW PV will easily give you the majority of your hot water for 6 months of the year, and partially for the other 6 months(simplified explanation), but you would need a 200-300 litre tank and thermostatic valves on the water outlets so you can store enough hot water from a sunny day to hold over for use on a cloudy day/days. So you can relate your home to our position, here are some figures: 100m2 floor timber framed 1970's bungalow on the isle of wight, 2 people. 205 litre tank. ASHP: air to water. Installed are all of the AIM and APE elements: That is Airtightness, Insulation, Mechanical Ventilation with Heat Recovery, and Air Source Heat Pump, Photovoltaics and Electric Vehicle. We have no other sources of energy production at present. Recent results excluding energy used for the EV (metered separately): Recent daily PURCHASED electrical consumption for heating, hot water, lighting, cooking and all electrical equipment: about 4kWh a day. ( longest day 2 days ago) 5 month record 1202kWh ( more in winter) Estimated 12 month outcome 3000kWh Personally we like the ASHP option. Good luck M

Hopefully to percolate, hence not only the possibility of undermining any structure too near, but also requiring an areas of ground to percolate into. A percolation test of the ground would vastly help to evaluate the choices. Solid clay - massive area - quick drain material small area.

Well this is delicate.... When I altered our garage to habitable space I checked with the building inspector.

Insulate the F out of the tank. If you do this you will probably require a digital thermostat to control the heating element and ducting to protect the element electric cable. I used a digital thermometer to switch a 16amp relay. I'm sure others will clarify. I've done the above and the utility room with the tank in is no longer like an oven.

Hi @Onoff I ground the underside of the tiles and sealed the gaps with lead sealant

Hi @Onoff It's unlikely that the vertical frame edges of the solar panels will line up exactly with the joist spacings. To overcome the problem of fixing the brackets to the frames, either install horizontal rails in-between the panels and the brackets, or install noggjns in-between the joists under the roofing felt. M

It's supposed to be for the slugs!

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Hi @New home Trying to reply as reasonably as possible.... If the glass has a scratch on it that you can feel with your finger nail then it is damaged and need replacing. The same really with the door handles. The screws can show but it sounds as if the doors have not been adjusted correctly. All in all it sounds like not enough care with the materials and the installation. It may be that the frame is not in the right position or the wrong size. It may not. if there is a gap at the bottom of the door then the rain will come in - so no, no good at all. I would not accept these problems. Best M

⁴Hi @Scots Build What is the floor area? How many people living in property? What's the volume of the hot water tank? Where is the tank and how long roughly is the pipework between external unit and tank? To compare: We have 100m2 2 people 205 litres, and a very well insulated tank which is inside the most insulated part of the building. Our one way pipework distance between external unit and tank less than 4 meters. Doubt if we used 1 kWh a day to heat the water during summer (although we now have a solic 200 installed so now impossible to judge). During summer we heat the water in the afternoons, allowing a 2 hour slot within which to bring the temp up. Something definetly wrong with your system. Even if you leave the hot water timer on 24 hours a day it would only heat the water in the tank if it became too cold. Good luck M

IMHO: Ramp of concrete at most, 1 in 10. Black tar to wall where rap connects . At least 1 meter wide. Rail either side. 900 off ramp. Drill hole through path for rail and concrete in. Other end in wall plates. Your bolt idea on the floor also ok if floor concrete man enough. Good luck M

Looking at the lower picture it indicates that the plate runs parallel with the new joist but not the old. As you say either sagged or never aligned. Personally I don't like the method. The thread on the bolts could dig into the timber allowing the drop. The strength of the old timber could be weaker than expected.. fulcrum, bending moment, Newton meters, all words that spring to mind....

For a class one it should be no more than 0.9mm over 8 meters in accordance with EC regulations 2004/32

Hi @Dave and Helen We have a 100m2 renovated 1970s bungalow with PV and MVHR. The MVHR runs at 19 to 26 watts. We like it. Would have it again if we moved. Like our ASHP, these things work differently form traditional setups. We have good insulation, good airtightness, MVHR, ASHP,PV and EV all helping to keep the running costs down. However, as @Nickfromwales said no good airtightness, on good MVHR. GOOD LUCK M

You cheapskates! Buying for the lowest price! You need at least a class two tape:

Yes. I've been there. What you might not realise is how far a slug will travel to the beer. I would put it in the garden as far away from the veg as possible. My best score in one evening is about 200!

Welcome to my world....

Runners in pots coming on ...

Thanks for the comments. Good to consider all the negatives for a broader picture...

Hi @Nickfromwales, @ProDave, @SuperPav et al, I am not sure that a small scale version of this would work but the theory seems to work in practice on l large scale. i.e. 60 megawatts: https://www.bloomberg.com/news/articles/2022-05-18/china-eyes-compressed-air-as-battery-competitor-in-energy-storage My thoughts were ( relating tanks to batteries) that once full the tanks don't loose a little energy every month unless topped up, you can fill and empty them as many times as you like, the tanks are expected to last 50 years, and so on. As for the system used, it was first invented for cars. Time will tell.

Told by MDI that MDI Airwall not available in this country yet.

I had previously understood that there was no point in adding a super insulated extension to a drafty cow shed as the improvement was minimal and I thought there could be problems regarding cold spot condensation forming on surfaces on the rest of the building, a bit like uninsulated window reveals in otherwise well insulated buildings. The only up side for higher insulation in extensions in drafty cow sheds I can see is a minimal heating saving but this may be over many many extensions a year resulting in an overall large saving of fuel.

Yes you right. Most of the time the ones I've done have been over grass so a bit of a problem because they have dug down.

Personally I avoid decking with space below because rodents like that sort of space...