Mattg4321

Using poor trades is going to be a problem in many situations. Solution, find some good ones. Plenty out there, although not always easy to find. Word of mouth is best.

I think you already know the answer. Total chancers and scumbags.

As far as I can tell there’s no hard and fast rule. It just should be designed to cope with wind loads etc. 300mm seems pretty well accepted though. I’ve seen a lot at far far less than that though.

What about making assumptions based upon computer models/political pressure/availability of funding

If you want to carry on using these then I would advise treating them as a temporary installation. Plug them into a nearby external socket and leave in situ for the summer period and pack away for winter. If you start burying cables/joints or leaving that stuff out all winter I’ll have money on it not lasting more than a year or two before it lets water in and starts tripping your RCD, rusts to bits or just stops working.

22+ years experience of pulling that stuff out to replace with something that will last more than half a British winter.

I’d advise to forget it as those lights will almost certainly be junk quality.

I think I’m right in saying that since the 2022 BR update you can’t meet wall u value for extensions with less than 150mm full fill mineral wool

Just bury the swa direct, the water won’t affect it unless it’s damaged. Lay it in pea shingle/sand etc before backfilling if there’s any chance at all of sharp objects/hardcore. The flexi conduit will only fill up with water anyway.

Forgot to add that this diagram doesn’t show the cavity tray that I’m sure will be required, and how that will stop the insulation above the steel?

Appreciate that this has likely been done to death but I’m struggling to find something totally relevant. Steel I beam with 10mm welded plate to the bottom to take the outer brickwork (2 storey extension). The detail supplied by the company installing the doors shows timber sitting on the steel plate in the cavity, but I’m not convinced this is the best way of dealing with this. Anyone?

A contactor and a relay are basically the same thing, but a contactor is generally more heavy duty. I wouldn't be trusting those shelly or sonoff devices to consistently handle 13 amps, regardless of what it says on the box. You can see from the video that the relay is pretty puny. A decent DIN rail mounted contactor is peanuts and will reliably operate a 13 amp load for years, probably decades, and take the heavy lifting away from the IoT device.

I’d use one of those wifi devices if you want another potential fire. If you really want to use one, then get it wired in via a contactor.

Reckon I could run in armoured much quicker (probably 50% less time) than T&E in conduit and it would look better!

Velux are helpful on the phone and will do a video call with you to talk you through setting things up if necessary.

Great post

Only downside to that plan is the Libbi is stupidly expensive.

G99 applications are free with UKPN too. I’ve read that other DNO’s charge

If your DNO is U.K. Power Networks then you/your electrician can apply with their smart connect portal. Very easy to do.

They are regulations. It even says as much on the front! If you think it’s fine to follow the rules of a third country, then crack on. In the unlikely event you end up in court, you’ll be expected to have followed the rules of this country. You can legally drive in some US states at 15, but you won’t be allowed to do it here, no matter how much you might demonstrate you have the reactions of Max Verstappen, the IQ of Einstein and the maturity of David Attenborough

Be interesting to see how quick that fills up with water again...

You can argue the rights or wrongs of it until you’re blue in the face. The regs are the regs. They’re not a statutory document, but they are admissible in court. Generally you’re going to be much more likely to be covered in water, without shoes on in a bathroom, than a kitchen is their argument. In all honesty I agree with most of what you’re saying, I just think it’s iffy ground to advise people to ignore the relevant regulations. It’s probably going to be ok for a DIYer in their own home if pulled back out before a sale/rental, but when you’re a professional working in someone’s home…it’ll be the regulations or not at all for me - as much as I don’t agree with them all the time.

If you’ve deliberately and knowingly disregarded the regulations of this country the prosectors will have a field day. “It’s allowed in another country” won’t save you imo. If you must have a washing machine in a bathroom, locate it 2.5m away from the edge of zone 2. Or 0.6m and connect it to a spur.

You can get them no problem, I just find that they are not as readily available sitting on stock on a shelf. That’s only my experience though. Probably should’ve explained this better.

I had meant GU10 is cheap enough not to worry. Sorry for confusion. They do have downsides compared with integrated though. Less reliable/ less efficient and harder to get wider beam angles. You pays your money…