Mattg4321

As per the title. Any ideas? Is the round thing some sort of cover over the slot where a key would be inserted? Dates from mid 80’s and flooring is old Amtico. Can see the outline of the manhole where the flooring has been cut round it (very well actually!). There is another round cover thing at the other end in the middle.

Do you have a problem with flow rather than pressure maybe?

Is this a Honeywell valve?

Not that impressed with the design of that Sonoff kit. Makes it awkward to comply with the regulations. Exposed basic insulation (brown and blue). Needs mechanical protection as above. Also, those exposed live terminal screws are a potential danger. Edit: upon further investigation, that’s designed to be fitted inside an enclosure with a DIN rail

Not very easy to test absolutely everything unless everything has been connected up (obviously without light fittings connected to wiring). Pretty time consuming to go around and test every leg/run of cable. Usual practice is to test during/after 2nd fix and deal with the problems then, as much as that can be a pain when it happens. Cables should be clipped or run at a depth in the wall or ceiling so the screws don’t reach them and can’t be damaged

Call Heatmiser. I've found them to be helpful on the phone.

It could be either of them, or less, or more, depending on spec. £22-25k seems reasonable for that size property though, assuming outside lighting/ventilation in bathrooms etc/heating wiring/data/smoke detectors etc etc is included

Expect it’s going to be 25mm2 or 35mm2 depending on the design current. 32mm duct sounds tight. Is it solid wall/rigid with no even remotely tight bends? Not much chance if not imo. Why such a small duct! Get your sparks involved asap

4 yard skip will be no problem. I filled a 10 yard in much the same way a couple of years ago. Very neatly loaded! The skip lorry did struggle a little! Edit. Unless it’s one of those silly transit cab/sized ones. If so please film it!

Sq/m pricing is a bit like the length of a piece of string. However, I can quite believe that £5k sq/m would be the going rate for a good quality extension in London. More in an awkward or expensive area - parking/congestion charge etc. Obviously if using your own labour, then that can be a significant saving, but not so much if you’ll be bringing in a main contractor for the shell. Slightly more saving if you are going to manage trades - groundworkers/bricklayers/roofers/electricians/plasterers etc. From what you’re saying, if you’re providing own labour for things a competent diyer could complete and managing other trades, then I’d be thinking £3-4K sq/m would be realistic in London. Whereabouts are you looking at buying as that will have a large effect.

Thanks both of you. I think those adaptors are for connecting clay PIPE to plastic. Not clay fitting to plastic. I don’t believe there’s a fitting for that. If there is, I certainly can’t find it. A design cock up from when it was built. I’ve just had a look at the connection for my downstairs loo and appear to have similar. Just pointed up with mortar. Which seems to prove my theory that is what used to be at bottom of soil stack. I think I may well run a bead of ct1 or similar round it to seal the inside edge and then point up what’s left. Cant see that leaking. I can’t really see a better option and it’s quick cheap and easy as a bonus.

Thanks very much for taking the time to write this substantial reply! It’s an internal soil stack. To be boxed in asap. The finned pipe connectors are for fitting inside a clay PIPE, not a clay FITTING/ELBOW like I have? (apologies for caps) My clay elbow is designed for a clay pipe to fit into it? A complete cock up by the original builders in the 60’s imo.

It will be boxed in so just want to patch up/sort out what I have properly

I think both those adaptors are designed to go in a clay pipe, not a clay fitting/elbow?? Got a link to band seal please? Thanks

To add, not sure what’s at the bottom of the plastic. Some sort of metal, but not sure exactly what.

Late 60’s build. Got a soil stack - plastic 110mm connecting directly into a clay 4 inch elbow at ground level. Unfortunately and obviously, the OD of the plastic is smaller than clay pipe so it doesn’t fit properly. It will have been like this since built. I’m thinking there used to be mortar around the joint to seal, but this has failed over the years. When toilet is flushed you can see it slightly bubbling around the join and it’s very slightly damp, but not affecting surrounding area. However, I’m worried about what happens if the pipework backs up. Surely that join needs to be waterproof!! How should I rectify? See picture below. Thanks in advance.

Consider you might want a high level alarm/indicator at house, which would require extra core(s) potentially. Always best to run a duct with a rope through in these situations if you can.

Just a standard 35mm 2 gang metal box will be fine

Being wet isn't a problem, if that's what you mean.

Thought as much. Thanks!

I’ve got sliding doors roughly 4m wide. Is it normal practice to fit the underfloor heating expansion strip against the door sill as well as around all walls in room? I was just considering a potential weak spot in the floor there if it is done, although I can see why it might well be needed. The skirting will cover it where it’s fitted to walls and will be low traffic anyway there. Thanks

They are wired in series, so the current will be constant. The voltage rises when you add panels. You need to check what the max input voltage/MPPT range of each MPPT is, as well as the current

I wouldn’t mix those on the same MPPT, but somebody more experienced than me with PV might come along and say that’s wrong. I’d imagine that the output of the newer panels would be compromised, and dragged down to the output of the old panels. You may even be nearing the max MPPT voltage rating anyway. On a separate MPPT or inverter, of course, crack on - subject to DNO approval if grid tied.

And drip grooves/channel on the bottom near the edge. It appears they have, as it’s only happening on the joint. Should some sort of drip groove have been formed in mortar? I don’t know to be honest, but seems sensible to me.