Mattg4321

At the moment it’s one where the hot and cold are separated right to the spout. But soon to be changed!!

I do have what I assume to be thermostatic shower. Also a couple of oldish mixer taps. Assume 15 years ish. Balanced cold feeds everything bar an outside tap and the kitchen tap which is teed off near stop cock

22mm non return valve on hot outlet (at top of cylinder) - not that I can see... No pressure reducing valve at stopcock. Mains pressure at kitchen sink is 4 bar. Everywhere else after combination valve adj to cylinder measured at 3 bar. Not sure what effect those 2 things would have. I've not noticed them on other jobs I've been on either though - not that I make a point of looking. Sure you'll enlighten me! (please) When bath tap is fully on, flow elsewhere upstairs slows to not much more than a strong trickle!

Yes retro fit into late 60's build with black alkathene main. As per first post I was told that I needed a bigger main, so this isn't a gripe with the plumbers really. More of a question as to whether I can do anything to mitigate the noise in the meantime before I get the main upgraded later this year. Sounds like it may not be wise to drop the EV pre charge below 1 bar, so perhaps it has to be lived with as is now. Plumbers saying 25mm blue MDPE needs to go in. I'm in a fairly large village/small town and water pressure is good (4 bar). Distance from road to stop cock around 15m. Perhaps 25mm is fine, but any benefit to 32mm? I guess it will have to be stepped down both ends to 25mm at meter and 22mm copper in house, so perhaps not really.

Thanks for the explanation. The gurgling/vibration noise has got better since the pre charge pressure was dropped to 1.5 bar. It doesn't seem to happen if a basin tap is turned on now. Mostly only the bath. With every other tap its a moderately loud hiss for a while until presumably the EV has emptied. It seems it's probably something I have to live with until we get the water main upgraded to 25mm blue MDPE? The dynamic flow pressure of 0.8 bar seems to be the root cause here and everything else is a compromise because of this?

Hi all Recently had a Joule 250l indirect unvented system fitted. Was told beforehand that incoming main probably needs upgrading. Currently 3/4 inch black MDPE. Around 15mm internal I believe. Plan to do so as soon as funds allow. When hot water is drawn off after it’s been heated/left for a while then we get a fairly loud gurgling noise from the expansion vessel/cylinder area. The plumbers been back and I think released some air from the expansion vessel, which seemed to have made it a slightly less aggressive, but not cured. Im struggling to get them back and just want to get this sorted it it’s something I can do. I’ve checked pressure on the main and on the balanced cold. 4 bar on the main and 3 bar on balanced cold. This drops to slightly around 0.8 bar with the bath tap fully open. A consequence of the main being undersized I think?? Ive checked the pre charge in expansion vessel (after shutting off cold supply and opening a tap to release pressure) and it’s about 1.5 bar. I think it was 3 bar from factory judging by the sticker. From what I’m reading the pre charge should be 0.2 bar below the dynamic flow pressure of 0.8 bar? Setting it to 0.6 bar seems low though and I don’t want to mess about with something I don’t fully understand without seeking some advice! Thanks in advance

I wouldn't be using a granny charger unless in an emergency. No PEN fault protection and doesn't comply with Section 722 of BS7671. Step the cable down to 6mm2 and do away with the socket or supply from a local circuit. If not familiar with Section 722 seek assistance.

Pretty sure IET code of practice says that EVSE must be on a dedicated circuit. Thats the only way I’d fit one anyway. I’m surprised that it can’t take 10mm2. What manufacturer and model EVSE is it out of interest? Why has a cable been installed that is incompatible with the equipment it’s intended for?

That’s poor from what’s usually a good brand. I don’t usually fit their sockets etc though as availability is poor near me

What brand out of interest? Never noticed any of them buzz before.

PAS63100 says yes. See page 14 below. Although it depends on your definition of mandatory and by whom I suppose. Personally I think you’d be mad not to. The cost is tiny compared against the installation of the PV/Inverter/Battery. I’ve seen loads of comically bad MCS installs though. https://www.pluginsolar.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/PAS_63100_2024.pdf

Yes, 16th, 17th and 18th!

Rainwater is good for washing cars too as it doesn’t really leave water marks. If I can be bothered I attach my pressure washer to a water butt, via a simple filter.

I didn’t fit my windows and in my case the tape was fitted afterwards by me and covered by the plasterboard reveals. I used 15/55 split. Guess it depends on your build type as to whether it can be fitted afterwards though.

I used this stuff as it was pretty cost effective against the competitors. Also bought their primer for taping to lightweight concrete blocks. Very very impressed. Was almost impossible to pull off even if you tried. https://passivehousesystems.co.uk/product/phs-modbau-internal-window-tape/

Changeover switch would solve the problem of the isolated one being turned on

Wouldn’t have that abomination in the middle of my garden! Maybe tucked out of view but that’s shocking there

What’s the problem with increased energy use if it is renewable powered? Sunny day in summer is when we seem to have an oversupply of energy as everyone’s PV is generating flat out. Might even solve a problem.

Depends if quasi religious flagellation is part of the reason for it.

I'm not sure anyone's going to change their minds really as leaving aside the extreme positions on both sides, there's broadly two camps, as there often is with other big issues of the time like covid. One side sees climate change as an almost existential threat, with death and destruction on a scale not seen before - even in 1913-45. If living standards take a fairly substantial hit then thats just the price that will have to be paid. The collateral damage from the damage to the economy will be painful to say the least, but better than the alternative. The other side sees it as a smaller problem in relation to the damage that the solutions put forward will cause. They would rather take all the measures that can be taken without hurting living standards or the economy. The collateral damage would be unacceptable in relation to the risk of the climate warming as the IPCC etc predicts, which they think can be dealt with by learning to live with, rather than attempting to prevent. Trying to attribute the extremists views to the other side isn't really helpful, but probably human nature and inevitable. Each side think they are correct and neither side can possibly prove it.

It was a new system. Although I applied to octopus a few days after it was installed. As above, just fill the form in and pay the £250

Did you complete this form? https://octopus.typeform.com/to/Cb3xmZNN That’s how I did it. Pay the fee and wait to find out. Did you pay the fee?

Did they give a reason for rejecting you? I did it 4 or 5 months ago and was accepted within a couple of weeks.

Octopus. You have to pay them £250 and provide the electrical certificate and building control (part p) notification.

Well done. As above, get a magnetic filter on there assuming there isn’t already!