Mattg4321

You could almost certainly keep the plate and just change the internals (module). https://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/VLJP400MOD.html?source=adwords&ad_position=&ad_id=&placement=&kw=&network=x&matchtype=&ad_type=pla&product_id=VLJP400MOD&product_partition_id=&campaign=shopping&version=finalurl_v3&gad_source=1&gclid=CjwKCAiA7t6sBhAiEiwAsaieYqWrl83urJ3xjMQcgXvuTyO_q4sro0nKdZjBamuGj_j3ei7Ncl5wzxoCGZ4QAvD_BwE

Knightsbridge dimmers are poor quality. I only fit Varilight V pro in general. They work well with 90% plus bulbs/fittings.

Just go with Click. Mode for white. Or Deco or Definity for Matt black finish. Much better quality than Knightsbridge imo.

Hard wired is always better for everything if possible. More reliable No battery changes Easier/cheaper to fix or replace for someone unfamiliar with the property More reliable! The amount of times I have to troubleshoot wireless heating controls that plumbers have supplied. Drives me mad.

https://www.labcwarranty.co.uk/technical-blog/guide-to-creating-weatherproof-parapet-walls?hs_amp=true This is informative to someone with only basic knowledge (me!)

Not that I take too much notice and as above I’m no expert, but that seems like an unusual design and something I’ve never seen (at least noticed) before. To me it looks as though it’s missing a capping piece or coping stone etc, although it’s obviously been designed this way. Mortar isn’t waterproof so surely it’s inevitable water will find its way into the cavity. Ok, this should be dealt with, but it’s far from ideal. I’m sure someone more knowledgeable than me will be able to comment soon though

Sorry to hear about this. Do you have any pictures of the top of the parapet wall? I’m not an expert, but it sounds like trouble if what I’m imagining is accurate. Surely there should be an overhang though? Parapet walls are notorious for causing problems though, that much I do know.

Doubt you’ll get anywhere. There’s loads like this on the market. They all end up causing the lamp to overheat and fail prematurely. Might be worth a go though if you can be bothered.

Well I suppose it might’ve actually been Germany pre Potsdam!

G9’s are pony, always have been and always will be! The G4 being the only lamp that is worse! Especially if they are fitted into an enclosed fitting they’ll constantly fail. I never recommend G9 fittings to my customers for that reason. I still fit quite a few and always warn the customer that they will be replacing lamps regularly, otherwise I get phone calls! Having said the above, some brands are significantly better than others. I do such a good job of avoiding supplying these things I’m not sure which though!

Or a standard 2 gang dimmer and replace one module for a ‘dummy’ on/off module.

Must admit I’ve never had reason to look for these and always assumed they were now obsolete as I’ve never seen them fitted new or being sold anywhere. 20 years in the trade, learn something new most weeks.

Looks like all you had to mask up in that room was the window. It’s a pain if there much more than that though right?

Saxby Atlantis are very good quality if you like the styling

From memory that sounds roughly correct I think. You should probably have more flow through the longer loops than the shorter ones though, so the system is balanced. You can adjust via the flow meters.

Yes you can do that and the pump will run continuously

I’m willing to bet the upstairs heating is on a separate manifold and is unrelated to the problem. I’m also willing to be that the 20amp isolator you’ve pointed the yellow arrow at is for the immersion heater. The blending valve has to be the thing to try next.

It sounds like plumber has already flushed it through, which if done properly would eliminate an air lock hopefully. It also seems weird to me to have an air lock in underfloor heating (a low point in the system) when nothing has been worked on and it was previously working well. Sounds like something has gone faulty or been fiddled with and is severely restricting the flow.

For some reason you’re not getting enough flow of water through the system. Hopefully someone with a plumbing background can offer some further advice. Something is throttling it, perhaps even the blending valve as fiddling with that is the only thing that has slightly improved things (the flow meters moved) Can’t be pump as that has been changed.

I’m not a plumber, but I had a similar system in my old house and I’ve wired a load of these systems up. It sounds like either you’re getting no/not enough flow of water through the pipework, or that the water is too cold. As above, it could be that the blending valve is faulty and is causing the water to be too cold. What flow rate do the flow meters show when the system is running? If they’re all at the top showing at or near 0, then you don’t have any/enough flow. They usually flutter/move around very slightly all the time the system is running properly too in my limited experience. You say the top row of the manifold is hot, which makes me think it’s a problem with a lack of flow. Have you somehow managed to throttle back all the flow meters/turn them off? You mentioned you were fiddling with them last year. Once properly balanced they should be left alone really.

This isn’t a definitive answer, but I’m not sure it’s something to lose sleep over. I’ve come across loads of cables stuck to polystyrene, but in no cases did the cable sheathing appear brittle, although obviously some sort of reaction has taken place for them to become stuck. It does seem to happen more frequently and seriously with older polystyrene and older cables, but that could just be due to them being in contact for a longer period of time. I’ve never come across a measurable fault caused by polystyrene and cables touching. That’s not to say it doesn’t happen, it just must be uncommon.

The reality is that most rings these days are carrying a very light load, with the exception of kitchens, but even here the load will be sporadic. Very few people plug in electric heaters nowadays. The number of burnt out connections on a ring circuit that I’ve seen is very low compared to cookers/showers/main switches/neutral bars in consumers units where it’s very common

Look at Table 4A2 for more detail on installation reference methods. It’s a judgment call though really. Regs book is out in the van, but think it’s Regulation 433.1.204 in BS7671.

Diversity is not usually applied to a single ring final circuit. It’s not really relevant. The circuit can’t be overloaded, because if the current surpasses 32amps for any length of time the breaker will disconnect. Ie if you plug in enough 2kw heaters. Each point on the ring is supplied with 2x cables. The key requirement being that each cable must be rated at 20amps or greater. Table 4D5 is the one to use here for twin and earth cable. Reference method 100 is probably the most likely result of acoustic insulation between floors. This gives a current carrying capacity for 2.5mm2 of 21amps and is thus acceptable.

Ideally you shouldn’t install any equipment in the meter cupboard. DNO’s can get upset. In reality it’s fine if there’s enough room for a smart meter and good access to all the equipment in the meter box. However if the consumer unit is as easily accessible as it sounds, then I’d want the consumer unit for the EVSE there.