Mattg4321

Click is the best value for money and reliability. I must’ve fitted 10’s of thousands of their accessories. Very few failures. Schneider ultimate if you’re going screwless flat plate. Click Definity is poor imo. There is a vast difference in quality between the better brands like Click or Hager etc and cheap rubbish like LAP or BG. You’ll get loads of issues with that stuff in my experience. It’s not worth saving a few pennies a socket for.

I had to put one of those arrestor things into a previous house. It improved it by 75%, so worth doing. Normally caused by unsecured pipework and water being turned off abruptly. Washing machine solenoids or mixer taps etc. That’s my understanding anyway. Seems odd if it’s just happening ‘by itself’.

Recommendations by word of mouth is by far the best way. Facebook and the like are ok, but as above you often get wives and parents etc giving out ‘recommendations’. I’ve had more than 1 issue with people I’ve got round my house this way. I get all my work through word of mouth. Don’t pay for advertising at all, except a basic website. Never seem to be short of work. I see some of my ‘competitors’ on Facebook etc always touting for work, I guess some of them will be new and building a client base, but some are just not very good.

My house currently has an 18kW gas boiler fitted. 1970 house. Uninsulated floor, half the windows original single glazed. Original radiators from 1970 - no fins. Minimal loft insulation. 120m2 All this will soon change, but my point is that the boiler easily copes. Even in -8 temps recently no problem, plenty in hand. It wasn’t running continuously by any means.

Pretty much that. I don’t get enough chance to crank the volume up to make anything else worthwhile these days really. Perhaps in a few years! I think it depends how big your room is. My lounge is about 4.5mx4m and the beam still sounds good. Much bigger maybe not? Most, if not all, people who hear it are very impressed, but these are not audiophiles! How good do you want/need it to be is what you probably should base your decision upon. You could always add a sub later. Unless you have a much larger than average room then I think a beam would be adequate vs an arc. Unless you are very demanding, in which case you should be looking at 5.1/atmos etc anyway.

I have gen 1, bought not long prior to gen 2 release. Typical! I’m very happy with it, the sound is decent, although not as good as the 5.1 system I sold to make way for it. I have 2 very young children and couldn’t make use of that anymore, so this is a compromise for now. I would have a sub if not for that reason. Possibly surrounds too. I’d be looking at the arc too if I could play at optimum volume still too! The above said, a beam alone will be good enough for 90% of the population imo. Depends if you are one of the 10%? Some people are happy with the built in tv speakers even!

Playing devils advocate, how would NuHeat attempt to justify their claim that such a small heat loss goes through an uninsulated solid floor?

An access point and a repeater are different things imo.

I have a Sonos 1, a Sonos 5 and a Sonos Beam. They’re great bits of kit imo. I stream from my own NAS server via Plex, Spotify and Radio mainly. Sometimes use Airplay, but that stops if you wander off! I like the long button press feature to link rooms easily. Depends if you can reach the speaker though. Saves opening the app. I don’t use voice control.

The butterfly fixing I linked to spreads the load better than gripit imo. The downside compared to gripit is that you have to use the machine screw provided (or same size), and you can’t leave head proud of ceiling/wall for keyhole type fixings. Ideal for double layer may come from the longer length (standard is 50mm). I don’t bother with 50mm as if you have anything thicker than a few mm to fix through the butterfly won’t open properly. I’ve probably fitted a 4 figure amount of these over the years! Don’t think I’ve ever had one pull out unless the plasterboard got wet or something.

https://www.screwfix.com/p/easyfix-spring-toggles-5-x-80mm-20-pack/7168x These, although not suitable for all applications for various reasons. Edit: at 12kg though I think I’d want a timber nog in there!

I’ve no idea to be honest, sorry. I assumed it would be hardware. In which case I would imagine it will take some time to work through the models. Either way, all my Sonos kit has been flawless, so what benefit in waiting? There will always be an upgrade if you wait another year or two!

I expect you’ll be waiting some time for them all to be upgraded to wifi 6. If you were to get a beam for example, that has only just received a major update. If you want the use of them now, I’d just buy them. I can’t see wifi6 being a huge benefit. It’s hardly huge amounts of data and Sonos is generally rock solid

Everyone on here says forget ufh without insulation, yet NuHeat claim only between 6-10% heat loss downward on uninsulated solid floor. This doesn’t sound too bad at all to me with no insulation. Who is correct?! http://files.nu-heat.co.uk/core/media/media.nl?id=4282445&c=472052&h=4b56e596b2e2e2df1d82&_xt=.pdf&_ga=2.69858192.1819237486.1540816311-991974963.1518786863 page 4

White pvc conduit will possibly degrade over time when exposed to UV light. Best to use black. Doesn’t surprise me the mess the gate installers left. Seen it on nearly every job I’ve been on with electric gates. They’re even worse than kitchen fitters imo! What I found a few weeks ago is typical.

There’s a big safety difference between 110v tools from an isolating centre tapped site transformer and 230v tools, often from a PME supply. That said, most small sites use 230v only (where not cordless) as it’s much more convenient not lugging the transformer around. If on a suitable supply with RCD then it’s acceptable as long as no significant ground works/outside works imo.

The Zappi will take a third of the power from each of the 3 phases. Roughly 7.3kW per phase. Most of the rest of the questions need to be directed at your electrical contractors. There are a number of ways of doing it depending on the requirements of your various buildings. You may not require 3 phases at your main house, depending on what loads you will have installed. It might be best to pull the cable in with that in mind for future though.

I’ve just realised I never followed up on this one. I spoke to Heatmiser technical and they told me the proximity sensors calibrate each time the thermostat is turned on after being switched off at the FCU for the boiler etc. My wife’s dressing gown was resting against it every time I had done this previously, which messed up the calibration. I removed the dressing gown, power cycled and it’s been fine since!!

Yes, don’t do it! I’ve fitted countless of these type of lights in the past within retaining walls. They always end up filling up with moisture and causing problems. IP55 is not enough for the environment it will be subjected to. In my experience you need to be looking at IP68, which generally means ELV. I normally use Collingwood. Problems are extremely rare and it’s much safer as a bonus. Don’t be tempted to use SY whatever light fittings you decide upon. It’s not a substitute for SWA and it’s certainly not designed to be used outside as the UV will destroy it (I’ve seen countless AC installs where this has happened). H07 in ducting is a decent choice if going with ELV

I really need/want a hard wired stat so the neoair is out. perhaps I’m going to have to try and source a neostat v1 second hand. Absolutely crazy really. Will speak to heatmiser today.

Having this same problem. About to get lynched by the wife. Is there a fix for it, or a way to turn the damn proximity sensor off?