Mattg4321

Any tips on what to look for/how to properly seal the dot and dab? Just a matter of sealing all round the perimeter of each board?

Also, if the circuit is indeed 30A (not 32A), it’s likely the fuseboard/consumer unit will want updating really. Is it a rewireable fuse or an MCB?

That doesn’t look like a safe installation. The back box is for an old cooker control unit. No longer made and nothing will fit it that I know of. The 45A isolator switch looks to be bodged. Looks like a neon that has been interfered with. Also the earthing assembly has been pulled off the plate, so if that neon is as sketchy as it looks you could have a very dangerous situation brewing. What you are wanting to do should be possible, taking into account diversity, but you need to get someone who knows what they are doing to sort that abomination out!

All the tools usually end up at the bottom of the tote in a mess is my problem with them, certainly the cheap ones. I used to have one of these, but broke it by standing on it too many times. It was pretty good for the money though. I then moved across to bags as I then have 2 free hands too carry more into the job in one hit. https://www.screwfix.com/p/stanley-fatmax-cantilever-tool-box-18-/83912?kpid=83912&cm_mmc=Google-_-Datafeed-_-Tools?kpid=KINASEKPID&cm_mmc=Google-_-TOKEN1-_-TOKEN2&gad_source=1&gclid=Cj0KCQiAsvWrBhC0ARIsAO4E6f8cu-LK0HpiBWBDnAZ7V7eMag2qY0Jq2qhyYyticpIECpR_mA1LrMcaAnRlEALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds

Yeah sorry, it’s worth it for me as I was going through £50 ones at least 2 a year. This one is 3 years old so far and like new. Also, much nicer to use!

Toolbag Veto Pro Pac Tech Pac. Gets totally hammered every day and it’s bulletproof. I was destroying the CK/Stanley ones in a few months. Bit of an investment though, so not for diyers or just storage probably.

That last sentence. As with everything these days. Rampant unchecked capitalism is the root cause of most of our problems these days imo. Can be blamed on every government without exception for the last 50 years probably. Doesn’t matter how many times the public attempt to vote for/communicate that we want more accountability/power to be less centralised/the power of the super rich/elite class to be brought under control, we get the opposite.

Typical architect 🤨🤣 Sorry mate, I’m only pulling your chain. 2 months probably isn’t realistic in the vast majority of cases. You’d need to flood the site with labour and unless they’re all really good and used to working alongside eachother then it’s going to go pear shaped very quickly. If you’ve got the contacts I suppose it could just about work, but why?

Loft zone is another option

You don’t want an MCB protecting a distribution circuit/sub main as you’ll never achieve selectivity between that and the final circuit. A fault on one of the final circuits can cause the MCB at origin of distribution circuit to operate. Very annoying and poor design. The only way to do it properly is with a switch fuse isolator. Whether that be TPN or SP. Edit, wrong link!!

Agreed in terms of pollution, but the above are more convenient in that you don’t need a supply of petrol/diesel that is liable to go off if not used in fairly short order. A problem a few of my customers have had after I’ve wired in a generator hook up and change over switch for them.

Running a heat pump with a fossil fuel generator sort of defeats the object though!! Ok for very sporadic use I guess!

To be fair a gas boiler would run for hours, or probably days, on battery using an Inverter with island mode. A HP would deplete a domestic battery fairly rapidly. I’m all for cutting pollution and would fit a HP in place of my gas boiler, but would rather have a backup supply of heat for if (when?) the grid fails. Will be keeping my gas fire and would consider a log burner if not. I don’t like sitting in the cold, especially when it’s due to the £@&&wits in charge and their half baked, short term plans and targets.

Just for reference... https://www.labc.co.uk/news/how-get-it-right-notches-holes-solid-timber-joists

Pretty sure no notches are allowable to the underside of joists. Only to the top

What’s the carbon footprint of posting on this forum 😆

Thanks for your input. I'm almost certain we will close off the opening between the lounge and extension/kitchen. We just have to figure out how to lay out the extension! Some good ideas so far here.

That’s not a bad idea, thanks for your input. No obvious place for the tv and kitchen in the darkest corner being the only downsides I can see. It’s a good size space, but awkward to get right I think.

Really struggling to make up our minds as to how to lay this area out. We’d ideally like to incorporate a good sized table and a snug area, possibly with a TV. We think the bi folds will be slightly smaller than shown - to allow for a 900 breakfast bar and a 1200 gap between units. We’re open to closing off the opening between lounge and kitchen at the top right in the room as you look at the picture. Wife says we could have the kitchen in that corner. I’m not keen, seems like it would be darker there and I like to look out the window as I’m washing up/ cooking. It may help generate more space (in both rooms) though as we have a lot of openings in the room. Struggling with placement of table/sofa/ possible tv and if we’ll have enough room so it doesn’t feel cramped. Open to, and grateful for suggestions!

Without knowing the rating of the heater and the condition of the existing circuit, it’s impossible to say unfortunately

Wouldn’t worry about it.

Ask the electrician? Generally 2.5mm2 twin and earth back to the consumer unit would be a good bet. Electrician might not want to sign off though if he hasn’t seen the run and that it’s installed correctly. Take photos and make sure the run complies with things like safe zones.

There’s various considerations to make here. Earthing system, expected load for new house, bonding requirements etc. Get an electrician involved at an early stage would be my advice. Or get a decent size duct in, with a rope through it.

Nothing wrong with 10mm, but I prefer not to as it’s awkward to work with and costs more! As you have it though and it’s what your sparks wants it’s a no brainer! Electric showers on the other hand I always always fit 10mm

10mm is overkill unless run through a shedload of insulation. 6mm is enough when you use the diversity calculation for every domestic cooking appliance I’ve ever fitted (a lot!)