Mattg4321

Along with the vast majority of people, I'm no scientist. I can only walk out of the door in the morning and know what the weather is like outside my front door. I've not noticed a difference in my lifetime, but it's hardly scientific. The problem I have with it, is that scientists are clearly under enormous pressure to agree with the climate change narrative - very similar to what happened with the covid/lockdowns/masks narratives. As a layperson how am I meant to choose whether to believe the authorities (who are inept and constantly lie) and a large group of very well credentialed scientists, or a smaller group of apparently very well credentialed scientists who disagree. It's notable that these guys are often quite senior and close to retirement so may not care if they are ostracised? History is littered with mistakes caused by group think, maybe we are making another by expending vast resources trying to reduce carbon dioxide, which is generally harmless to health? I got sent this video and it's quite persuasive, but I'm not qualified to make a decision on whether or not to believe it.

Probably ‘ghost voltage’ being induced from other circuits the cabling for your circuit runs alongside. Impossible to say for sure without looking at it though

Flexi ducting for the shortest length possible onto solid ducting

Sounds about right to me.

Not too many! Those bits start to lose their edge after only a few holes ime.

It’s easy enough to diy a guide out of an offcut of thin timber. Drill a 22mm hole in it and hold it (or get someone else to hold it) firmly in place whilst you get started with the diamond bit.

Anyone can complete and sign an Electrical Installation Certificate as per the sample ones in BS7671. You may get building control accept this. However, you can only get a electrical certificate of compliance (part p) if you are registered with the likes of napit or niceic for self certification, or if you get someone who is to 3rd party sign you off, or if you pay LABC something like £600 to send someone out to inspect. Sample of this is below, which is what octopus apparently need, along with the BS7671 Electrical Installation Certificate and DNO approval.

I can't think of any regulation this would be against, assuming both cables were SWA. It's not ideal, as you could in theory get interference, but the reality is it will be absolutely fine over this distance in a domestic situation. If it's approved by BASEC that carries significant weight, as they are 'the' accreditation body for cable. EVUItra and other brands are in very widespread use now, it's nothing unusual. I've used it a load of times myself and never heard of anyone having problems specific to it.

It's what I've read in 2 or 3 places from people claiming to have signed up via this route. The electrical installation cert is a seperate piece of paper to the part p building control notification, Octopus want both.

Running them through the same duct whilst not ideal will work fine. Just make sure they’re pulled together and use at least external duct grade cat 6, if not swa. Look at EVUltra cable and that works with no ill effects.

I’m looking into this currently and am 99% sure the 3 things you need are DNO approval, part P building control notification and electrical installation certificate. People seem to be getting confused with the building control notification bit and thinking its related to the roof structure, but it’s actually the part p notification. It’s £250, with £150 being refunded if they reject you. At 15p a unit exported, if you have a good amount of excess generation that you can’t self consume it should pay back quite quickly depending how much exactly you’re sending to the grid for free.

I’m not saying this is right, but attached are the drawing I was sent by door company and what I’ve actually done. Their method wasn’t going to work for me as I’ve got block and beam floor, so there is no inner leaf where the doors are.

Those lights are 12 volts, they will need a power supply/driver fitting somewhere. If I'm understanding correctly, you probably need to listen to your sparks. Aside from the above problem, it's pretty poor practice to shove joints into the cavity, protected only by a layer of heat shrink. Hopefully you can find something else you like the look of.

From the Heatmiser manual. I’ve wired in hundreds of them. Pretty simple.

A single days job can hardly be called ‘big’. I guess it’s subjective though.

Not a big job, so just get it changed for one with SPD and RCBO’s

Definitely just drill that at an angle. Something I do all the time. I’d drill from out to in too. Much easier to repair inside than outside!

It’s always a bit of a problem figuring out how to keep outside lights in safe zones. Sometimes involving drilling at angles or adding extra sockets etc to form a new safe zone.

Using poor trades is going to be a problem in many situations. Solution, find some good ones. Plenty out there, although not always easy to find. Word of mouth is best.

I think you already know the answer. Total chancers and scumbags.

As far as I can tell there’s no hard and fast rule. It just should be designed to cope with wind loads etc. 300mm seems pretty well accepted though. I’ve seen a lot at far far less than that though.

What about making assumptions based upon computer models/political pressure/availability of funding

If you want to carry on using these then I would advise treating them as a temporary installation. Plug them into a nearby external socket and leave in situ for the summer period and pack away for winter. If you start burying cables/joints or leaving that stuff out all winter I’ll have money on it not lasting more than a year or two before it lets water in and starts tripping your RCD, rusts to bits or just stops working.

22+ years experience of pulling that stuff out to replace with something that will last more than half a British winter.

I’d advise to forget it as those lights will almost certainly be junk quality.