saveasteading

I first thought you meant a drain survey by video, which is a common thing. The most boring video I ever watched, even though it was a very dirty video indeed. Well done though. I don't understand what you did, can you explain further?

Exactly, and you can design on this principle without having to get technical with rainfall and soakaway rates. It is a bit of an enthusiasm come bugbear of mine. You have land so this is relatively straightforward. Do you want to achieve SUDS because it is a requirement, or because it is s good thing? If the former then you do, or get someone to do, sums for you, then put in crates and hydrobrakes and so on a considerable expense, knowing that nobody will check the construction or flow off site. If the latter then it is often easier and cheaper, but don't tell the planners or bco. I have designed and built a 500m2 roof area plus parking with zero water to sewers where there was a perfectly good drain in the road. The area floods badly yet the planners allow 5litres/second per acre off site, and I wanted to prove that this was unnecessary. This results in much reduced rates as a bonus. The world didn't change but I was pleased with it. You do need land. The hierarchy is published, with green roof at the top, but that costs a lot. Then comes rainwater harvester, which I do recommend. Again capital cost but payback can be about 8 years. But the unscientific and cheap 'secret' is to put all the drains through porous pipes to soakaways, and have one or more lagoons or swales for whatever gets through. As Roger 440 says, the rain falls on the rest of the land as it always did, and so you are only dealing with your roof. Plus any hard paving but that is easy to resolve. If you can spread the rain in several directions to various soakaways and ponds it helps lot. 1. Barrels on each rwp. 2. various perforated drains in different directions. Take them through tree/bush areas where the plants will drink the water (not in winter) and the roots have broken the soil and encourage infiltration. Then don't call them perforated drains but 'infiltration trenches'. 3. soakaways and ponds at the ends. Infiltration trenches if flat will hold large amounts of water and have a very big surface area. 4. willow trees at the ponds. The final ponds will work best if big and shallow as there is a large soakage area, and a large surface area for water to evaporate from heat and wind. The final statement of your proposal is 'zero rainwater leaves the site'. As you are retaining all the water, it doesn't need complex analysis, just local rainfall figures.

Any way of doing this with pir?

And I'm getting quotes in Inverness at £10/m3. There are 3 types of fibre. The cheapest one is hairlike, for crack control, then there is plastic in a solid pin shape which adds strength, then there is steel , like tacks or staples, which is for runways. Sounds like your quote is the middle one.

My guess too. Air has to enter from somewhere behind the draining water, and a shallow trap may offer least resistance.

£10/m3 add on to the concrete cost, so £1.50/m2 for 150mm slab. And of course reduced labour. To the mesh cost add for laps and waste. Apologies for not noticing your earlier post. I got a letter from Sika which didn't say a lot but was enough for our SE to file as 'risk gone, not our problem'.

Really best not to. If you have cleared it a bit and it is running then chemicals will run away. Once you have breached the blockage it should now all go away. There is either another problem (the drain may be damaged or have roots in it), or more rodding, and even flushing should be better. Have you been able to rod from both ends?

That is my point. I have come across it several times, and I know many a QS etc who has not noticed/ not wanted to notice.

Big snails can't hide in the soil, so it must be a ninja snail that swings in and out without a trail. It wont be far away. Best solution is the 10.30pm torch inspection. It and others will all be in situ by then. The torch light doesn't phase them. Next is also to give them some bricks etc to hide under in the daytime, and you can evict them at your leisure. Ash, coffee grounds and sheeps' wool are all supposedly deterrents as the slime doesn't work.

Strongtie have hangers that would work for smaller sections onto a conventionally shaped hip end construction (2 hips coming off the end of a ridge beam). Their detail shows nails being driven in at a slant, so that would be the way with nails or screws. With bolts it should be feasible too, other than right in the corner. Coach bolts won't work. The geometry is pretty horrible, see 3d below. I have had less complex hip shapes to do in steel, (with the steel all designed by very sophisticated computer) and the only solution was to have sliding cleats to fix by eye and cut at height.. Wood is much more accommodating, but I still think these have to made in situ. The hinge idea is interesting...maybe huge ones exist ready-made in some other world (I mean agriculture or sailing or some such.)

There are multiple routes to being a Chartered Surveyor, (Auctioneer or Land manager may be the at the extremes away from construction knowledge, and then there are estate agents.) ) let alone any technician levels. I would be surprised if they were equally qualified and able in these regards.

Not necessarily the same people. There are so many exclusions on house reports that only very obvious stuff is seen. Then they perhaps say that an SE should also be consulted. I' guessing though, that the insurers have different criteria of experience and qualifications.

Average 1.25 /hour, and you have 24kVA. 100A x 240V = 24000 VA = 24kVA. Sounds like plenty. Somebody else check please.

Only once he had the pattern, which I think is nigh impossible to predict. The trouble I see though is that the angles are horrible. Drawn square above, but in reality all on skews. So I would anticipate tacking the timber up once cut and making a template of tin plate. Then lower the beam, fabricate the joints, and then erect. And this is one at a time. Unless there is a welder standing by on site, with something else to occupy his time, this will add time and cost. BUT, thinks...can they be calculated and premade? A 45deg roof has a 30??deg hip or valley. One valley joins into another hip, so the cuts are both......head hurting. And then there are the site tolerances. Or learn to weld , and do it in-situ while the joiner waits. This is the one place where appearance may matter, as the rest of the ridge beam will be concealed.. There are 3 more, all different, hidden, at the other end. It is very high though so reasonable tidiness will suffice.

Our groundworker (come general builder) says that we can't use eps backed plasterboard, even with a service gap, unless the cables are in ducts. I doubt this but will check it out, unless anyone here knows already.

This is often 'not to hand', 'haven't got a hard copy', or a poor copy. When you do see it, look at what it is for. Roofing insurance costs a lot more than general building. There may be a clause that excludes roofing, or working above a certain height. I had a roofer once, all set to work at 10m above ground, whose insurance certificate said he was a metalworker, limited to work up to 4m (He had taken the cheapest cover available). We had to take out cover for him. Hopefully none of this applies to yours....but if there was an accident then you need to have carried out reasonable enquiry.

I would think that the inspection is critical to the risk taken by the insurer, and is basically the only cost they have outside the office. The surveyor will have huge insurance premiums to pay to protect themselves in case of a claim, plus their time of course. So I can see why it is expensive. Would I want to be a surveyor for insurers? No. It wouldn't be very satisfying, has a lot of admin, and a lot of risk in spotting and judging other peoples' mistakes. So I can see why there is a shortage.

My understanding is that the vehicle always shows zero to 100% charge (as for phones/laptops etc.), but that the capacity will become reduced and so the mileage too. Isn't that something that can be measured easily though? So the battery capacity could be stated/ displayed just as the mileage is? I imagine it will become a carrot and stick process. If you charge with off-peak it will be much cheaper, and if you give back to the grid when required you get discounts. Yes it uses the battery, but avoids a new power station or the existing power stations storing off-peak power in ....batteries.

ProDave needed to explain this perhaps, but you may not need more power. 15kW output needs something like 4kW electric supply. Most houses are using less power because of LED lights. Do you know what power you have available? On your bill, or see the fuse. Now you are among us you must promise to use capitals for any famous scientist recognised in the terminology. So kW , kVA , kN etc. On a positive, to my surprise solid stone walls have been found to be a better insulator than the calculations allow. In our reg's application we inserted a figure for it from these studies (we have 600mm of granite) and it was accepted (though perhaps not noticed).

That may not be pleasant reading, but essential information before that commitment. If someone has suggested 12kW then they have presumably estimated your current or proposed heat loss. There is a heat loss programme in Buildhub somewhere, created and gifted by a clever member. Others can point you to it, as I can't find it for the moment. It will let you play with options and see what is worth doing. FYI we are building 400m2 (conversion but effectively new-build) and will have an aggregate of 16kW ASHP. That may give some comparison to your building's efficiency.

(Some) Cheap and unbranded stuff is very skinny and difficult to fix. I suspect some of it is a poor clone and not thought through. If it goes up twisted it not only looks poor but functions badly, as any dip reduces the whole capacity. So Brett Martin/ Marley/ Hunter etc would be my choice. Make sure it is big enough for the job, especially if there is a long run of gutter before the dp.

It is inside the vcl so should be pretty neutral conditions. It will get hot in the summer (but not too bad as the tiles and wind will keep it out) and cold in the winter. But will that cause any harm? No worse than any other attic, albeit tiny. Packing with insulation will help the room beneath a bit. 4m3 of the cheapest fibreglass £80? But where are all your PIR offcuts? stack them in, no cost, save on skips and nothing to landfill or incineration. I think this is a gut feeling decision.

Thanks you clever lot. Decision made. WE will go for the simple joist hanger solution, with a triangle cut out, or just a horizontal chase. to adapt to the horizontal base This will not require explanation to the BCO, whereas the traditional timber idea probably would. The hangers are under £1 each even if branded Strongtie, as compared to £19 with an adjustable bottom. Everything is held by a myriad of nails, resisting in all directions. the base is, I feel, a temporary support until the nails take the strain. The links from Markocosic are interesting, but they don't resolve this next problem... SE has shown glulam to glulam connections using very heavy, and rather lovely, brackets as shown below. Unfortunately they are silly money and only come as right angles. We have hips and valleys converging, which I conveniently ignored on the detail My initial thought was to get nail plates and simply bend them to shape and nail in...but it will need a very small hammer to get into the acute angles. Then to do the same but with the plates as templates, and make up a heavy bracket on the ground....welding one by one to suit. But it doesn't seem right. The existing (remaining) hip/rafter/ridge connections involve two long twist nails only. Any brilliant ideas?

There are still advisors out there who think that? The SBEM and Breeam calculations are full of such nonsense, but I thought real people knew better by now.

DIY 2% waste. Contractor 5% Labour only contractor 10%