saveasteading

It is time to choose floor and wall tiling. 300m2+. 3 questions. 1. There are hints of very large discounts, if committing to the whole project. Perhaps suggesting close to 50%. We could keep to a small range in large quantities, using the higher end ranges if the discount is enough. Any experience, target, advice? 2. I dont like 'effects' but am over-ruled, and we are looking at wood effect porcelain. I especially dislike the repeat of prints of knots and shakes, which in life are unique, and very especially if they line up due to identical tile prints. Has anyone overcome this? I am thinking find a range with subtle (boring?) marking, a large range of patterns, and reversing half. Then we mix them rather than leaving it to the tiler. 3. Do we favour realistic textures or smooth?

Have seen a van and checked the website, promoting spray-on plaster. It seems to be done with a heavy-duty paint sprayer, by Graco. The plaster is in readymixed sacks, looking like very thick paint. Anybody know of it or similar? This would be for plasterboard walls and ceilings...lots of it. Obv this would be quick. There are many mentions of speed, lack of dust, and avoidance of waste. But there is a studious avoidance of mentioning cost, or whether it is smooth.

Try borough or district councillor first, as their patch is much smaller and known to them, and they may involve the others. Depending where you live there may be a parish or equivalent council too.

Either would be fine. Ask the BM why they favour one. It might be on better terms for them, or a more reliable supply....or something technical. Multitrack appears to be by a small uk company, which is a plus to me.

Agreed with the above. Plus line the base and sides with tiles or cement board to avoid combustion of the cupboard.

Good idea. A lot of draught through that hole. If you can't drill for some reason, there will be a type you could glue on. I must do mine. Failing which... velcro.

Tufton Street wants us to have the freedom to waste energy.....and buy more.

This is all they do, and they work out a price based on estimated time. I expect them to be good at it and as quick as they say.

I would expect the screed to continue to delaminate. 4mm plywood is very thin. Perhaps not enough fixings and it is flexing. Why does the board beneath need this extra ply layer What thickness is the screed?

Back to my suggestion of the local councillor. Getting them interested is the first issue, but there are several neighbours involved so that helps. Once you have their support though, it is a short cut to all the council departments, as the councillor can summon them. This helps a lot when the planners etc would rather not deal with your issue (busy, don't like disputes). The council depts have up to date detailed maps of ownerships, land to be kept open etc. The other suggestions on doing your homework are important too. The more convincing your case, the better.

For non specialist circumstances I have no hesitation in avoiding the big names. But for Terram that price is good. That is a big roll.

It is Edinburgh city council planning dept., doing their job. Another dept (national gov't) can advise on energy. For those who don't know Edinburgh, Drummond Street, although Georgian, is not one of the stunning Georgian areas of the 'New Town', but just outside the 'Old Town'. Both are World Heritage designated. I recommend visits to both, and hope the door is not a distracting feature by then.

The membrane's main function is to keep the mud below the stones, as they will otherwise mix. On that principle, and from experience, i have moved towards favouring non-woven fabric. I say put it down. It will pay itself easily.

Seems these shower units cost about £500, then add for plumbing in and building into the floor (and insulating!). SAY £800? Prob not enough but helps the sums. One manufacturer claims £20 saving per user per year. 4 users means 10 year payback. So worth considering. Would need to see proof though, as cynical me thinks perhaps it is an easy way to buy sap points on a project that would better be redesigned.

Yes, but these are not about to be knocked down. And they are very big, terraced buildings, so the external walls are a small proportion. But pink paint doesn't help, so perhaps I sm missing your point.

Two different things. If you know this area of Edinburgh, these are classic Georgian buildings, relying on symmetry. She has had her moment of fame and can now repaint appropriately, as she could have done when first instructed. Then can add draightstrip etc. Prob has an inner lobby anyway. Actually, 600 masonry then lath and plaster won't be that bad for heat loss.

Interesting. More detail please or direct me to the info.

You have a local councillor so speak to them. They will likely talk to highways and planning. The council may then be interested in having the fence removed. At worst you may find that the council or other party claims it is theirs snd you can't use it, but that sounds better than the current grab. Any idea why the neighbour thinks it is theirs? Are there any manholes etc on the area?

I'd say forget it. The waste water goes out as fast as you can make it, and it is very complex, and expensive, to try to use it to heat incoming water or air. For example i once saw a shower tray designed to warm the incoming cold water. It was clever, but involved a lot of pipework, a big hole in the floor, and the routing of the cold feed under the tray. Leaving the bathwater to cool into the room is as far as i would go. A fan will bring the excess warm air down to the floor from the ceiling. If switched to blow upwards it also avoids the feeling of draughts. Call it heat recovery and award yourself some sap points.

It was a summary of a Lloyd's bank forecast yesterday, and that it would affect their mortgage risk assessments. So yes, prob a SE issue mostly.

Clay heave of the orangery with shallow founds, attached to an immovable house. Understood. But I am unaware of clay heaving below 4m as it should be constantly damp. Maybe a clay I don't know of. My point is not the differential movement but why 24m piles. I'd like to know if anyone can clarify. Or perhaps the worry was more of the house sliding on the hillside. Is it steep?

I don't agree, having refurbished 2 listed buildings for ourselves. One a mix of 1600s and 1880. The other 1920s as wrongly categorised as by famous architect. It is right that they are protected. Planners were fine about sympathetic changes and additions. In both cases the buildings are admired and part of the 'street scene'. Both were discounted at the price by builders for the commercial reasons above. So the price reflected the work required it was affordable to us, and I have the knowledge. To build and resell quickly would have required much more cost but for own use these things are done in stages. Agreed, the insulation can never be to modern standards. But these are still admired and valued buildings.

I got a stack for tensioning sports netting and it was not expensive. If I could remember where I would tell...interweb , Southampton?

Some thoughts. Ignore repeats, and apologies for missing any vital points....I haven't retead it all. More reasons for rebuilding it flatter. Doors won't open on that slope, especially long, heavy ones. Water will overwhelm the aco unless cleaned often. Little cars with little wheels will really struggle. Chances of hurtling into the house? Railway buffer advised or F1 type tyre barrier. I'd expect the setts to come up cleanly for reuse. The wax will surely rub off with spinning tyres. Would an S / OG shape profile help, so it is flatter top and bottom but the middle bit steeper?

This sort of cabling and accessories are available from stock from boat specialists.