saveasteading

The bit that you are so pleased to see rising high, you pinch off. At any stage, now or after the next leaves. Then it will grow 2 like this from down at the leaf node below.

The prices really have fallen. Not great, but not as bad as it was looking for a while. OSB about 40% off list. Timber ditto from a BM. That is still more than the ex-mill price quoted above but getting closer. Next question. These sloping bottomed rafter hangers.... (£17 each probably) Any reason we can't use normal joist hangers with horizontal bottoms (£4), and notch the rafter into it? I am assuming that rafters into glulam ridges are treated as pinned joints, and so this would be a tidy and economical solution. (The Engineer doesn't issue any calculations without a lot more payment so there is no proof. By inspection 225 x 45 over 2.5m horizontally looks plenty for simply supported). Also, as the rafters become shorter in the triangles of the valleys and hips, is there a stage at which we just bang in 4 nails?

That will look good and especially if there are wobbles, chips and scrapes on the timber edge.

But that means £2,000 less per unit to the original landowner, who I think is actually behind most such decisions.

The plant then sends 2 lead shoots up instead of one, and bushes out faster. Probably unnecessary if planting 50 plants. The same applies to sweet peas. Did I mention earlier about planting some sweet peas among your beans? Simple, old-fashioned ones are best for attracting insects which will likely move on to the less attractive bean flowers..........and make beans.

I don't think any creatures would be interested in living behind that, unless the gap is wide. Alternating draughty, damp, freezing scorching . A mesh trim will only close the bottom, so not much point.

No. Effloresence is caused by salts coming out of masonry or mortar, and will only appear on the outer face, and wash off. A gap would fill with all sorts of crud as well as all the water running down the wall.

Sorry i meant (2) and have edited it. It needs to be tied to the blockwork too. I would rather see the top brick inset into the block, otherwise rain runs down onto a mortar joint constantly.

I did some mill buildings for a Finnish timber company, owned by the foresters. They explianed that when prices drop they let the trees grow, then when they rise they harvest. While keeping the business running of course.

(2). But please explain the purpose of the plinth.

Yes Inverness and Elgin. I always found them to be fair so may send enquiry to them. But general merchants are usually very much more expensive than specialist timber merchants from where they obtain it themselves. The timber merchant at the dockside or in the forest should be the one. If ProDave is listening in, Fettes looks a good price, considering that is price each. £420/m3 treated.

A good reference thanks. Heavy straps are good value. But the rafter hangers are £19 each! Maybe big discounts for quantity (50) and for asking?

6 plants will be enough for you. You will be starting a market stall. Did you know to pinch out the growing tips to make the plant spread.....and make more beans? In one summer glut I did beans 3 ways in one meal. Indian, ratatouille and plain. One thing about having lots...you can pick them small and tender.

Saves thinking and they don't know the foundation design, so sensible. But we must always question overdesign, and always ask 'why', whether to save £1 or £100,000....or to invest extra for a benefit.

Yours probably doesn't offer haggis slices in the breakfast. A big omission to any fry up.

About to order the timber for the stick build section of new build (replacing demolished section.) 1. I am trying obviously to get the most efficient design to save timber and labour. I can see that a kit build company brings in whole wall panels, places them on a sole plate, then straps a top wall plate on to hold it together. But with stick built, can we not build the studs straight onto the sole plate, and then a single top timber (except where doubled/trebled as lintels etc)? Saves wood, saves labour, reduces cold bridge, increases insulation area. I think this may just be a standard detail that is not questioned. 2. Any idea why there should be a dpc under the sole plate of Internal Walls? Architect and Engineer dont have it but a potential joiner's QS has included it. The wall will be on a concrete slab with dpm below it.......just checking I am not missing something. 3. Simpson rafter hangers with adjustable sloping foot.....cost about £18 each. !!. x 50. I cant see any competition to this supplier. Know any alternative or something cheaper. 4, Inverness area only....where is the best timber price at the moment? The prices seem to have eased, and are about £550/m3 for big timbers. That is list price and should come way down for a big order. Do John James sell direct? Loads of mills doing C16, but is it treated? One local mill said they can't beat the merchants and only do special commissions.

What does Tripadvisor suggest as the ten best things to do in, or near, Invergordon? 1. Cafe at Morrisons. 2. Visit to ProDave development with included tea and cake, and any problems solved. 3. Visit the only industrial estate with absolutely every car supplier and national builders' merchant on it (Inverness). 4?

Meanwhile there is endless free (or included) food on board, perhaps better than even at Morrisons' cafe, and hundreds will be indulging, and not getting off at all.

It can't be that simple. Or do these parties resist zero VAT because it helps poorer people more than themselves.? There was previously a delay of many years in controlling scrap recycling (all cash, no questions), until theft of railway copper got out of hand. I kind of think I suspect (he says cautiously) why that was, but can't see how the same parties are involved in the insulation industry. Do the energy businesses perhaps resist us insulating our homes?

Remembered more. No public or commercial premises to be heated to above 20C or cooled to below 26C. This has been a law in Spain for some years, and I think recently applied in France. Cruise ships have to go somewhere and public have to get off to look at the towns they visit.....that will reduce pointless travel while allowing freedom to 'explore'.

Lead. Costs a bit but does it in one. Plus the 'decent roofer'. There are many 'roofers' who are just builders who don't mind heights, and nobody normally inspects the work. Assuming you took the picture, are you going to be the 'decent roofer'?

Yes, but it is £4 for a cheap Ubend, and you get to keep and reuse it. Or look in a skip and there is often one there, if you can be bothered cleaning it of a stranger's waste. A home-made one doesn't come apart for cleaning. BCO might say no. Spend the £4 say I, but well done for questioning the obvious.

They will, but easily chopped off and it gives up in a year or so...or let a few leaves show and spray them.

If not filling it as a 'raised bed', and just using the existing ground then i would suggest minimal digging. digging brings up new weeds. Get the grass and roots out though OR cover in cardboard and soil. Would it work to dig little holes maybe 150 dia and 150 deep for each plant and infill with soil or compost? bean roots are good at penetrating even heavy clay once started. No-dig works well for me, and the worms and plants do the work.. (I'm not so keen on the no-dig guru's advice about full moon planting etc.)

Impressive and much taller than mine, although maybe they are putting roots down. Any idea why they are so much bigger at one end of the tray? After 2 nights of deporting the snugs and slails, the next night was lashing down and I didn't do it. Wet conditions, unguarded plants, so I feared the worst, but all was well. Found 3 litlle slugs under stones and no damage. I have planted 20 beans and got 6!!! Grrr. Some were very old. I think I over watered them and they rotted. I will be asking your advice next year. What compost for example?