saveasteading

Yes, pumps fail and service can be slow. We foresaw that for our own office construction, and installed a shortcut from mains to the internal system, so turning one valve off and another on was all that was required. As you say, it can be complex.

Nordan have shown us to fix metal straps to the sides of the frames, then bring them interally and screw to the (stone) reveal. Then they have to be concealed. Surprisingly they don't supply straps, and a helpful fitter showed us that he seems to use any old strap that is handy. But then to use expanding foam to really take the load as well as seal.

You get a heart for spreading good news.

Don't worry. It is good for the garden and dissolves. Just keep solids out with some mesh.

Are you suggesting that only increases might be mentioned? Actually yes, this happens: 'estimates can only go up' was recently flung at us. I have never in 40+years worked with price variation. The admin is prohibitive. Once I recall telling a client of the the risk to us and him (pile length) , and that it wasn't fair for me just to add all the risk to the job. But he insisted as he wanted a fixed price. That was until the job was done and he realised that the element had gone smoothly, and it wouldn't be fair that we kept the risk money.

A few matters arising. Very few BCOs or Architects really understand fire protection. Therefore if you argue then they want something very definitive. Intumescent paint is horrible and expensive. Great for big commercial projects, but even then often misapplied. Most applications are much too thin to provide the protection required. A top coat is required but seldom applied except in big projects. I once had a painter coat about 200m2 of wall. I told him to go round and round until there was no paint left over, thus providing the required thickness. Next day he told me the 'good news' that he had half the paint left over. Intumescent paint gets sold with a diy certificate. Effectively it says 'this person bought some of our paint'. I have never known a bco test the thickness/ number of paint pots. Plasterboard is often specified to be fireboard when normal would do perfectly or two skins of normal. Practically, it can be easier to fit 2 skins as the first may be a bit rough and the second is then very easy to fit. In fire tests it has been known for the test to be halted at 30 minutes (60/90 etc) even though the product was still performing. This sells more stuff.

Yes. Under the house is complex and expensive. Under the back yard is ok unless close to the house or if there will be vehicle loads. But the tank will cost £1,000 to buy and install, not £50.

Some random jottings. The effect of thicker insulation diminishes with thickness, but this is often not reflected in calculations. (The first 25mm does a great deal more than the last 25mm). The effect of a reflective layer has been dropped from the 'advantages' list of the plasterboard manufacturers, but can still be added in a calculation. How dirty it is is interesting.....it is going to get dull with time even in a cavity. Does a clean and shiny surface work the same with invisible radiation as with visible? All paint is black until the lid comes off. A wide air gap allows air to circulate freely and reduce the benefit. A ventilated air gap is a cold space.

The bargain design is this. Second hand IBC, 1000 litres. , filled from a RWP. Free to £50 depending on quality/ luck. Join another any time using tank connectors, (or separately to another rwp.) Cheap submersible pump for when you want to water the garden (£50 might be too powerful) And apart from disguising the ugly tank there are no other costs. You will get several fills per annum out of the tank, saving £3/m3...so about £20 per annum. Capital repaid in 2 or 3 years plus you have done a good thing for the environment. Plus, if you can avoid any rainwater going to the sewer you can get the sewage rate reduced.

If you can get sand and gravel, then you don't need much rock: just some on top to resist abrasion. the principle of constructing a road is to start with the poorest fill and increase the quality as you get nearer the surface. This applies to the biggest motorways. In your case there is a risk of the peaty ground settling under the weight of the stone/sand fill, let alone the vehicles.. The simple answer to that is to float your road on the surface...that is how the railway is built across Rannoch moor. So I suggest chatting around and finding what material is available, then get back to us. Check out Macadam and Telford road constructions...no bitumen used then. A Macadam (not tarmacadam) Road is probably what you need. You have the modern advantage of a membrane beneath that prevents the mud from mixing with the stone. Also chat with the quarry some more, as they may have lesser material that they can supply. As to the tarmac site entrance...the point of this is to prevent mud and stones being carried onto the carriageway. The tarmac bit on top doesn't need to be very thick, but the LA may have their own view and standard on this.

Uphill isn't a problem. The volume of a sewage outlet is not great and you can pump it. It has a cost of course.

Unfair. Bad councillors do bad things: Change them. Proof enough that parish councils are needed is that boroughs do not want neighbourhood plans, because it gives the parish some control.

No, it's worse than that. Most do no prep at all, then want time to think about it during the meeting. At Borough level there are politics involved and most councillors look to their leader and follow suit. At parish level, there is a danger of vested local interests dominating. Training is available but many don't want it. All these councillors are elected. Why don't you stand?

Not really. I recall them as a parish councillor. It wouldn't be random. But typically. We are John and Jane smith , living at olde cottage. It is in poor condition and needs updating (for example....). Also needs extending as baby on the way. We love the house and will retain all we can.The extension is shown on the (attractive 3d) drawings we have had done for you. See how well it fits in, and how unobtrusive. Etc. I would emphasise that very few counvillors or evd planners can read anf fully understand drawings. Artists impressions and photoshop make it easy for them.

Yes you do. It is all clear in the regulations. I can't refer right now but later if not already answered.

On a simpler level, some private applicants submit a short letter to explain their intent. Entirely true or not, it goes down well with neighbours and councillors.

Had to strip 70m2 once as the timber shrank so much. Wish we had used screws. Unless the screw point is going to puncture a membrane then the longer will be better. Quite a few mm at the tip will not contribute to the fixing.

If a house is 'standard' then there are formulae for rebuild cost based on area. Try various online insurers (some use the formula way, some don't) and see what their costing comes to. If your house is a one-off then perhaps yours has some particular costs.

Bravo. For some reason, the government dropped the requirement of a d and a statement with every application. We continued to do them anyway. At an open meeting of parish councils with our planners, I told them that my business continued so to do, for the same reasons you state. It ticks off all the questions the planner has to ask anyway, so make it easy and quick. It addresses all the questions that need addressing, and some more, and it is wise to do so before application, not after. It concentrates the mind as a designer , to get the best from the project. The client can also review and perhaps understand the complexities properly. Most of all, if you can't prepare a d and a statement then you haven't designed it properly. I asked a planner once why they seemed to respect planning consultants so much, when I thought they might be almost enemies. The answer was that they make the job easier by referring to all the expectations and requirements of the application. They could swap jobs. The planner generally doesn't have any prejudices, so just make it easy. And lastly, a beautifully prepared d and a statement, such as yours, makes it easy for neighbours and parish councils to understand too. they are more likely to support the application.

Is the foundation also entirely on your land? How far would you say the wall face was inside the boundary?

It is the worst case, where demolition is not even easy, foundations are removed etc. Plus lots of consultants, and a one-off rebuild. In reality most insurance jobs are much cheaper. On the other hand, the land still has value. So the difference between rebuild cost and value is even greater. Under insure at your peril, as any claim will be paid only in part.

Active children don't need warm water anyway. This is all for nerdy fun.

I don't think so. The amount of heat lost to the ground will be tiny. It is fun to turn the pump off for a bit, then you get the same effect as when a hose in the sun is run...lovely hot water for a very short time. Thereafter the temperature difference will be small, but constant. If the water isn't too horrible, and retained for the next day, then a cover keeps the heat in....more prevention of evaporation than conventional cooling. I read a US contractor saying he refused to put in solar heating unless the client also allowed for a cover.

Yes will work, but how much? We have a solar tube system, just black pipes, in Spain. Half the area of the pool, facing south on a gantry. It can heat 60m3 by 3C on a midsummer's day but the emerging water is only 0.5C warmer. The cleaning pump runs it so no running cost. Allowing for the pump running I calculated 100 x efficiency. Cotswolds on a sunny day, not facing the sun, small pool? Deduct pump running cost. You tell us. Good fun though. Well done.

If i had to do this myself, due to urgency, and assuming some enthusiastic and strong assistance, then I would. I have knowledge but not much hands on with biggish areas. Levelling would be my concern, as the screed keeps on coming and tamping/floating would be difficult without experience. So i think i would leave it 2 to 3mm low as there will be glitches in level and screed marks. Then a few bags of self lelling screed will finish it off. If you don't have the knowledge, then get learning or go back to plans 1 and 2. Always bear in mind that you may not know how much you don't know.