saveasteading

I've seen these but never used them. I've used the hair-like fibres and so have any readymix suppliers. It just rubs off underfoot. Yours would rub off with a carborundum or a brick, I'd think. Anyway, it's saved how much on steel? A few hundred?

I have a ceiling light with 3 led bulbs in it and one of them shines gently all night. If i recall, it is taking energy from the inductance ( no something else) always present at a live cable. The same thing that encourages flies to circle a light that is off.

That's clever. There isnt any cantilever because, instead, you have displaced columns away from the glazing/ floor area.

I'd estimate £15k, perhaps more, extra for a lot of heavy steel and foundations as it's supporting the roof, snow loads* and the sliding door. I'd love to see drawings or photos of it. * a valley gutter is assumed to collect a snow drift as well as the standard depth allowed for loading. It does look good though and where would we be if everybody did the cheapest thing?

Most Scottish councils accept a caravan by default. Perhaps some England and Wales do too. Anyway, it shouldn't be contentious but you need to show it.

Very impressive. A lot of steel for the omission of a column, and fun for your SE, but it does look good. From the first pic I thought it was half the size. Where does the valley gutter drain to?

Yes it is tricky to insulate and to make airtight. and yes, see last week's discussion...a new name to me and a new cost level.

@AndehhI've done this style a few times but always much bigger and as a steel frame. I think timber might be better here. What width is that roughly? The oversails are worth a lot of attention as they can be expensive or not. I quote a client £150/m run to see how much they like it. Don't forget you'll need a column in the corner. I'd make a feature of it a la Pompidou Centre. @mjc55 steel frame then timber batten? OR find a design by strom, as recently discussed. They seem to be standard, so maybe they have found an ideal solution, not that the price level reflects that.

Dab the person's name and a screen comes up with a mail icon on it. Unless they have disabled the option.

What about door heights? They're good for heating a person sitting adjacent in a cold space. Otherwise, they are simply electric heaters, and no more efficient.

I once forgot to tell the bco we had commenced, and our site manager didn't request inspections of footings. Oops. I sent photographs and confirmed I had seen the holes. He trusted us and said it was ok. As he said: " your design, your work, your reputation...I'm confident it's ok. But give me pics for my file." Elsewhere I've seen footings exposed for inspection, and condemned.

I stopped using the term but remember it being common. On a drawing there would be a mention of solum treatment: usually stone or concrete, and i've recently laid plastic sheet on mud under a Victorian timber floor, just to reduce damp in the underfloor void. It is Latin I think. A useful word. Is there still a requirement for solum treatment ( perhaps without the word) jn the building regs?

Should be ok as the board will spread the load. You can walk on pir if your feet are kept absolutely flat. Not infra red. It is for corners of garages, patios etc , not for for domestic.

A main contractor will spend a lot of time organising. Also he is taking risk off you, more or less according to what you agree. If they supply all the plant and materials then they are at more risk and have cash flow to contend with. 30% oncost may be about right, and may be good value.

Or at least smiled politely. Our joiner was intelligent, youngish, college trained and had clearly put up plenty of frames. We gave up on him sealing the vapour barrier properly, and it became an after hours diy. How many new builds, probably on new estates, are done badly?

I'd suggest that the other challenge is integrating suppliers who are not contractually connected, then working outdoors, in all weather. It's not like a factory or an office But I reckon you'd be even better at it next time.

Because you have grabbed our group interest. 1. you suggest projects go twice over budget. Most don't. 3 You brought up Strom. New to me and it has been interesting. I had no idea people spent ( or charged) that much.

I wasn't really joking either. That would be easily achievable. So British standards included. Exceeding them welcomed. Architect, Engineer included. Fixed price for construction. I doubt it will ever happen though if you don't have any plot in mind other than at very low prices. These tend to be problem sites that won't get permission. Do PM if this goes further.

I made one with rustic bricks sliced in half as a kerbed edging, and infilled with floor tiles. It works well in keeping the mess in control, and catching cinders. But someone dropped a log from a height and a tile broke. Another time, I'd use heavier tiles, or slate. As well as complying with the rules, check your own, and others', comfort in leaning in to feed and clean the fire.

Most tradespeople are lucky to have one credit account at a BM. The credit assists cash flow. You will get a better price by paying as you go. That way you are not borrowing from the BM. In time the BM may allow the occasional favour of ' pay next time you are in'. More important even than that is priority delivery. That all changes though for large purchases, or highish spending levels, when they really want the business. Then a credit account will be as good. Think small and accept whatever credit they offer, and always pay in good time. Working together with your favoured BM, giving them a chance to match other quotes, can be the best way.. allowing them to make a profit along the way. But you will do best by studying the market for each product so you know a fair price when you see it. BUT. professional buyers spend their time chasing another 1% here and there. There is much more saving to be made by efficient design and avoiding of waste. Any waste. It isn't only the stuff in the skip, but the timbers that could have been smaller, the earth you didn't have to dig, etc.

I think it may be OK to tell us who the developer was. That is a matter of fact. But it is up to you.

I don't think they are in any position to get involved. However, as the fault could affect health, a different department of the LA could perhaps be able to do something. I would contact your Borough Councillor, as they are there to help you and will have the contacts. In turn they may ask their bco to advise. If that developer is still working locally then they won't want the bad publicity.

Perhaps. But I'm sure there are quieter ones available. that's relative, but anything takes up some space. Just a small copper pipe in and out, linking the units. So I'm wondering if we are thinking of the same thing. What size of hole do you mean?

As @Thorfunsays. It needs fixing to the floor. Hammerfix for a short run like this. I would treat myself to one of those puff of chalk hole markers.