saveasteading

For now I have found an electrical conduit which pushed inside the existing. It's dripping into a jug, but not pouring, and I might bodge it with gunge and tape before the other ideas.

I think I'd still need a basin under that.

The mice have been at this overflow. As an overflow it is never used, but a surge from the sink reaches here and the cupboard is soaked. I don't see that access is possible between the sink and unit, to change the pipe, even if it is a standard thing. What do you even call that pipe? A flexible drainpipe? Any suggestions please?

If its not built yet, I'd be very fussy about build quality. You will never get another chance to inspect or repair it. The blocks must not be cracked and the pointing must be perfect. Add a vcl. I'd use the strongest ties, and not worry about the thermal breaks. Why do you need fire rated plasterboard? The gap to the next wall is tiny. Likely to get damp and fill with leaves and litter. Will you be able to clear it? Have you had professional advice or just the builder?

That also makes sense for new build. Planners, and policies, often encourage artisan combined buildings. A return to 100 years ago when high streets had workshops on the street and homes above.

It's good to make use of these, and well done the merchant for encouraging it. Be aware that the timbers are may distort due to the new imbalance of grain and stresses. Not a huge reduction so maybe not much twist. If so, you can probably straighten them with substantial noggins / dwangs.

I can't remember. I just know I tried to make one work a couple of times, and it wasn't viable. Perhaps it is cautiously specified, as digester soakaways are, whereas a klargester one is a 'thing' with a certificate.

5th December it says, but what's the chance of it working?

There appear to be recent stricter rules on the subject, which perhaps our plumber hasn't noticed. It's not easy reading so I will have to print and get the magic marker working. This commercial one is easier than the nhbc https://insulation-more.co.uk/blogs/the-pipe-duct-lagging-expert/new-guidance-on-pipe-insulation-for-domestic-heating-systems-2023?utm_source=shopsheriff&utm_medium=amp&utm_content=cookie-consent&_gl=1*1bkzay0*_ga*bHUwZUNCQnc0UnJOT21meGxKd2haYklyM3RkclhxcUhSRktweUtHWlJhU0tFYVpKdWVMWHFwLUV6NUF0Zl9tQw..# It seems that the rules were crazily relaxed and now are sensible, but still not strict enough to my mind.

The plumber is reluctant to insulate these hot and cold (and hot loop) pipes, although they have done in the cold attic. He says it isn't necessary in the warm side of the wall. They will be contained in the service gap. We think there will be condensation on the cold pipes, so they must be insulated as a minimum. Also heat exchange from hot to cold which is wasting energy, and not desirable anyway. And it will heat the service gap unnecessarily. 1. Are we wrong? 2. Is there a published standard to quote to hasten agreement?

I hadn't heard of flying ends either. It's an education in BH. It makes a lot of sense and saves some secondary bars, but I wonder about the cost, not being a mainstream product. Lapping bars is sensible. Tying is quite a skill so the machine is a good idea.

I'd say so. Or simply avoids replacing staff shortages. I wonder how skilled the assessors are in construction, or do they mostly skip through anyway, looking for the unusual. Yes. If there's somebody not to cheat it's the vat inspector. One sat opposite me for 3 days convinced we were up to something....then said 'oh I see..that's all fine'. But he went away with copies of subby invoices. He even told me the common dodges they were looking for. We were squeaky clean but it still felt uncomfortable. There won't be any imaginary costs in our submission.

Mostly....you've got it all thought out. Pro tilers may disagree with me, and don't need the artificial aids such as spacers, but: 1. Yes. Don't assume the floor/ tray is level. With normal tiles ig is normal to fix batten and to cut in the lower tiles later. Prob not a great idea with huge tiles, so getting it packed level is crucial. 2. I would. 3. Don't know. 4. I've only ever used the x spacers. But we discovered the challenge of curves on big tiles so the family bought a wedge clamping system and the result is superb. Slower but essential. 5. Notches...I use fine notches on a plane backing, but deep notches if its wobbly. That may not be the whole logic for heavy tiles.. 6, 7. Can't comment 8. A level is a level. Any size as long as it is accurate. 1200 is ok but reverse it to be sure. But my family bought a laser and are glad they did.....but for lots of tiling and other stuff. 9. A diamond tile saw table is about £50. Amateur grade but works fine. 10. Slow setting adhesive. Quick is for pros. Remember nothing is usually level or vertical or square. Do your tiles have repeat patterns? Does it bother you if they line up etc?

One of those secrets that joiners keep. Like a chop saw...why didn't I get one years ago? Looking at the dewalt site, it looks as if it allows cutting the bottom of a door without removing. Wow. Any worthwhile sets among the much cheaper brands?

That's a commercial digester really. I meant a natural reed bed snaking around and clean enough to end in a pond. @Gone West what sort of cost was it? I checked it out but found tanks always much cheaper but less interesting. I'd be interested to know if it looks good, smells, is any concern for children or animals etc. Any maintenance?

If the electronic form is well designed, then this is all good news. But I'm thinking it will still be best to number every document before setting up for a long session of scanning. I wonder which of us will be first to test this out. We are 9 months off at best.

Everything else is 1 for 1 energy. If you don't need cooling (and it should be avoided) then make sure the unit is primarily designed for heating efficiency.

But you could help the planet by letting it rot and feed insects and nature generally. I use wood burners too. It's a pragmatic choice. Waste wood and prunings first. Locally produced logs next. 90% efficient if all best practices are followed, and isn't that better than anything else?

@ProDavewill clarify. Don't you simply use one of the phases to drive the ashp? He is right about many electricians not understanding it. It's a good question for testing their knowledge and even interest in the subject.

Maybe it's just my comfort zone, but drainage wouldn't concern me as much as the structure: IF you have room to drain into. A pond is good for rainwater but can't accept treated waste water. A reed bed has to be huge, and it is very likely a commercial treatment tank will be much cheaper and less concern. As above, a percolation test needs holes in the ground, buckets of water and a calculator. If the ground is heavy clay, then drainage can get tricky. If you are on heavy clay.

Confused. You have a woodburner don't you?

A search for root barrier came up with 'root barrier store'. If anything says it will resist bamboo or knotweed, then that will do. It's quite expensive but not when compared with concrete. It appears to quote depth where it should say width, suggesting it's foreign??? But shop around. Normal geomembrane or weed membranes are nowhere near as strong.

If a vat registered business issues an invoice then it is assumed to include vat. However, it would be much easier if shown separately in the breakdown.

I don't know what you are supposed to provide under the floor for structural support. J assume hardcore and blinding. Thus the issue would be of concreting purely to suppress weeds. You certainly don't want weeds growing into your sips panels. The wrong kind of weed will, indeed, get through materials as tough as tarmac, or joints in panels of concrete. But a concrete slab is excessive. 1. Ask your supplier if the panels prevent weeds forcing through. 2. Select a membrane that is proven to be impenetrable to plants...they exist. I have used the latter to bury Japanese knotweed, successfully. I can't recall the brand, but try 1. first.

Agreed. It is ancillary to the house. They'll tell you if they don't agree.