saveasteading

Not quite all. the notch is out of the bottom, and that is the bit of ply that needs to be fixed hard. a few more screws down there, if you can.

Not quite all. the notch is out of the bottom, and that is the bit of ply that needs to be fixed hard. a few more screws down there, if you can.

Not quite all. the notch is out of the bottom, and that is the bit of ply that needs to be fixed hard. a few more screws down there, if you can.

@DRM Just to avoid you disastering this project: 1. To support a sliding door, the beam will be much deeper. 2. There's a lot more to this than compiling a list of materials. 3. That's enough from me. It's time for you to engage an Engineer or it will go horribly wrong. 4. Good luck though.

@George My SE boss taught me to use L/18 as the first stab. That is safer in ensuring enough space is allowed for an economic beam. This was in the days of number crunching, so being close with the first assumption saved a lot of iterating. Perhaps Euro sizes can be shallower, but if anything they are skinnier. Please tell me if 1/18 is no longer correct and I'll change my general advice.

Kelvin and others are right. Dehumidifier running at night, with the windows and doors closed. It's worth hiring a commercial one for a week. They fill buckets, which is water from a lot of air, which then absorbs water from thd plaster. The power used is also heating the space. On dry days, turn the machine off and open all windows to get a wind blowing through. Repeat. I've found that after a few days of this, the problem very suddenly is resolved.

If you wanted to, you could expose the pads and insulate them. It's diminishing returns though for a smallish benefit a few days per annum. I can't see that replacing with glulam is cheaper, but it's certainly easier. A builder would prefer to replace the whole building. A self builder is converting and working around issues, and surely was attracted to the building as it is?

A nice stone arch?

I've done a similar conversion, but for an office. I think we clamped timbers to the purlins, so they stayed.

He said he wouldn't even necessarily do a site visit either! What exactly is the point of them??? Very important role. Reading on BH we hear of bad experiences with incompetent builders. There would be far more problems without bcos. These could become big issues to later users of a property. Then there are the incompetent self builders....they aren't on B H of course.

OK. You can't drill into these so it needs another solution. There are a few ways to deal with it. SE essential. Architect not but... The SE can specify construction but may not be great on layout and appearance and building regs other than structure. Ask them.

The beams will be about 400mm deep. To minimise intrusion to the room, the joists can be inset. What will the atrium walls ( and external walls) be made of? It's good to see you enjoying the development of the design. I'd say work out the room layout and then get an SE.

They don't know everything. The fee doesn't allow much time for research. It is easier / less risky to ask you to do more than less. I suggesf you just say that you've decided to tape and joint instead.

In a way it makes sense to have a stab at the beam depth to see if the geometry of the house works at all. So here is my advice. A 20m spanning beam is impractical, and would be very deep. Perhaps over 1m. More likely a complete portal frame of 2 columns and a beam. Try that. Then revert to getting professionals in sooner rather than later. Why do you need a 20m clear space?

I'd have to check, but I'm 98% sure you don't need to skim. You could ask him where it says so. I suspect he's bluffing it. I went on a fire course where they showed an actual fire test, that demonstrated that even open joints ( exposing a few mm of timber) stayed integral. That's just btw, for your comfort. You'll be filling and taping?

Hi. Good luck. Is say £200/ft2 is feasible with luck, design skills and close management. Atcost was purely a concrete frame system. Latterly they started using steel purlins instead of concrete. That is a big advantage in refurbing. What is yours? The system was used for industry as well as agriculture so is not in any way less adequate. I think the trading name may still exist. The SE has so far been employed to confirm to the planners that this is a structurally sound building, that can be converted. Ie it doesn't have to be demolished or otherwise replaced. It is likely to need strengthening for domestic use. Mostly because safety factors need to be added, whereas agricultural buildings don't have them. That might include underpinning. I'd contact an SE now for a walkround with comments. Try phoning the one who did the report. You won't get builders' quotes until you know what has to be done. That SE is priority again.

Bad of me. Thanks all. I have read it all and will read them serially soon and probably have more questions.

I would lay a polythene sheet over the ground (solum) and simply turned up the walls a little. That will keep most of the damp out of harm's way. Use a sturdy matetial as youll be treading on it.

Exactly. The tree officers concern is the trees, not the building. A garage could sit on the surface with a light structural raft. A house will be completely different. 2 economical choices Crossover A simple slab with no foundations But.....* I'd do the x-over. The last time I did this to lock planning, we just did hardcore. BUT the planner wanted to see the complete design and bco approval to show it was relevant.

I was going to say that It leaves a residue of sugars and hops. But that is too obvious. Wouldn't the physical contact resolve this...the prongs will touch where they touch, enough for conductivity?

Seems harsh for a garage. sometimes this can be too cautious. how far away are the trees and what type??

not unless there is something we don't know. Has it been asked for?

I'm wondering if @twice round the block means trench footings. I've heard this described as pilings before (in error or as a local term, I don't know). Hence the query. Otherwise , just getting a rig on site will be a few £k, plus full SE design. dropped kerb and reconstruction of footpath/crossing might be about £3k. @ProDave please curb your use of this american term for kerb. I had to add kerb to the spellcheck dictionary. Twice, if you tell us more about the garage design, and ground conditions, then we can help you choose.

What do you mean by piling? Tubes banged into the ground are expensive.

Well you tried anyway. Joists fail in acceptable deflection before the breaking point. So you're OK.