saveasteading

I have fixed carpet underlay. It's not thick but it is durable, so its a compromise. Also draught strip on the touching surfaces.

That creates further doubt. Needs 3 levels and 2 of them to agree. Btw Are lasers always correct? How are they checked? Certainly site levels can go wrong. I know how to check them though.

That's what a wall or a self closing door would do. But these doors are specifically designed to be left open.

It can look quite patchy in colour and texture. I'd be surprised if it looks good enough for a finish. Also it's quite brittle so might crack or lose adhedion if something is dropped on it. Latex based stuff is more flexible. There used to be 2 part stuff that was great but I havent found any recently.

I can't see the logic of it for that, as it would need to be kept closed. Best check, as that is an expensive door.

It's a good job you're inspecting.

But why does the bco require them? I've looked them up now and don't see any fire rating.

Noted. Also I see the warning about very secure fixing, so I would go with the plywood idea, or even a steel plate. It will otherwise crack the tiles. Fire doors?

Speaking with the benefit of not having submitted yet; I'd be amazed if the clerical person looked in that sort of detail. New house....100mm PIR is to be expected.

If these doors are the moulded mdf bifolds intended for wardrobes, then i doubt they will satisfy building regs, but might be OK with a pin into the glued down plate supplied. If they are ' proper' doors then they will need very secure fixings. What are they for that bco wants them?

It would be best to slacken the nuts, insert packer and retighten, so the timbers compress together. Can't see, but there should be washers.

But if you've paid for 50mm and its a big area, then there should be a rebate.

The same as what is there will do or denser.

The bolts only stop the timbers from moving or bending away from each other. They don't prevent movement the other 3 directions. So yes they should be packed tightly between, or have nuts tight on the inner faces. It's so easy to do, especially at initial construction. But can still be added in a half hour. Timber to timber. Perhaps folding wedges is easiest.

Maybe not foam, but some backings look much more permeable than others. Trying to blow through it might look strange at Tapi.

Nobody is going to fall through the floor at 40mm. Think of the thickness of a paving slab. If you've got no signs of ufh pipes at the surface then that has worked out OK too.

I'd think that normal, foam backed carpet will insulate the floor more than normal hessian backed carpet.

The method in doc H is remarkably simple. The detailed design from first principles is very complex but you don't need to go there. Just remember to keep it going downhill, and that some rodding points lose 40 or 60mm between in and out. Soakaway design is also covered, but it depends on the ground, and needs an easy diy percolation test. Don't cheat on this or you will have problems. Have a look and let us know what you think.

If it is an old barn, done up by the farmer. 1. It has stood a long time and isn't about to fall down. But check the condition of timbers... 2. Farming build quality is traditionally well below housing standards. Cows and hay bales don't complain. Beware general bodging, through ignorance and corner cutting, prob more than deceit. Needs a survey I'd think. Have you been there on a wet day? Not just to see any leaks, but also gutters and drains in action.

I've mixed and matched before. Only for temporary drains I should emphasise. They have fitted. Had more issues with ( cheap) brown pipes simply not fitting each other, but they go in eventually.

As many previous discussions: building control do spot checks by invitation. Many things go uninspected.

can you explain please?

Some are better than others. It may depend too, on the scope of works yoj uave agreed. The cheapest quote may only allow for a quick calculation, without iterating alternatives, or for any oroject management. What does your contract say?

It definitely fails in sunlight. It goes white and brittle. Perhaps it fails but more slowly in internal air/ daylight. It really isn't worth using it above ground. Why the fuss?

you mean shower room, not shower tray area?